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Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year. Nearly perfect competition for with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal. And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou. The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest. I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.

Women's Combined Final Results, Shanghai 1.) Brooke Raboutou: 83.8/57.1/140.9 (50 pts) 2.) Seo Chaehyun: 54.2/80.1/134.3 (45 pts) 3.) Erin McNeice: 59.7/68.1/127.8 (41 pts) 4.) Miho Nonaka: 59.6/68.1/127.7 (38 pts) 5.) Futaba Ito: 59.4/57.1/116.5 (36 pts) 6.) Ievgeniia Kazbekova: 59.1/48.1/107.2 (35 pts) 7.) Luo Zhilu: 59.7/39.1/98.8 (34 pts) 8.) Zélia Avezou: 39.4/57.1/96.5 (33 pts)

Lots of interesting outcomes from this final. After two previous rounds of difficult low scoring lead the final sees 3 athletes touch the top hold while the highest boulder score accounts for only 2/4 tops. That lead round resulted in Lee Dohyun to take the 50 from Shanghai, putting the South Korean inches from an Olympic quota. Alberto Ginés-Lopez shows us why he’s a rightful Olympic champion with a perfect lead to get silver at the comp. An end to his best performance in the sport since his Tokyo gold medal. Adam Ondra ends up only able to use his high boulder score to get 3rd. On the other hand, rough day for Sam Avezou with a very low boulder score and a complete flop on lead, falling before getting to the first scored hold. Still, 8th is not a bad rank in the tight race for France’s two quotas.

Final Men’s Combined Boulder & Lead Shanghai 1.) Lee Dohyun - 34.5/100/134.5 (50 pts) 2.) Alberto Ginés-Lopez - 24.5/100/124.5 (45 pts) 3.) Adam Ondra - 64.0/60.1/124.1 (41 pts) 4.) Paul Jenft - 49.1/64.0/113.1 (38 pts) 5.) Sascha Lehmann - 14.3/96.1/110.4 (36 pts) 6.) Hannes van Duysen -34.5/60.1/94.6 (35 pts) 7.) Hamish McArthur - 48.8/45.1/93.9 (34 pts) 8.) Sam Avezou - 9.8/0.0/9.8 (33 pts)

TOP 20 Women's Combined Boulder & Lead Qualifying (Progress to SF): Scores for boulder/lead/combined sum 1.) Nonaka Miho - 99.6/60.0/159.6 2.) Brooke Raboutou - 84.4/60.0/144.4 3.) Ievgeniia Kazbekova - 99.8/39.1/138.9 4.) Ito Futaba - 99.7/39.1/138.8 5.) Camila Moroni - 99.6/36.1/136.7 6.) Luo Zhilu - 84.8/39.1/123.9 7.) Erin Mcneice - 84.6/39.1/123.7 8.) Laura Rogora - 54.9/64.1/119.0 9.) Lucija Tarkus - 79.5/39.1/118.6 10.) Zélia Avezou - 84.7/28.1/112.8 11.) Seo Chae-hyun - 49.7/60.1/109.8 12.) Anastasia Sanders - 79.6/30.1/109.7 13.) Manon Hily - 64.3/45.1/109.4 14.) Mia Krampl - 74.8/33.1/107.9 15.) Fanny Gibert - 84.2/22.1/106.3 16.) Molly Thompson-Smith - 43.8/57.6/100.8 17.) Kim Jian - 23.9/72.0/95.6 18.) Lucia Dorffel - 63.7/28.1/91.8 19.) Nakagawa Ryu - 53.9/36.0/89.9 20.) Franziska Sterrer - 69.0/20.0/89.0

Any other team and he would be on track to qualifying with this, 17th place here, 7th in the rankings. That’s a 10th place over all, right in the center of the 20 quotas with a semi in Budapest locking in that rank. Except, there’s at least 4 other Japanese skaters above him in the combined rankings. All younger, hell Ginwoo Onodera was 11 when Horigome won and is now above him in the world rankings. His success in Tokyo igniting the sport for Japan is looking like his downfall for Paris.

Really is the battle of teammates on the women’s side. , , , all have close competition between their top 2 with each team only able to send one more athlete. Makes top 20 the mark to aim for, because at least 4 in the top 20 (if things stand after lead) won’t go to the Olympics. Not as much of a problem on the men’s side, only has a completion for the last quota of the country. could be fierce too with only 2 out of 3 (4 if Mawem makes a comeback) with a slot. For those countries it could come down to the final lead wall in Budapest while the rest of the field is decided at Budapest qualifying,

Speed Climbing is going to be the breakout event in Paris. The storylines between the ascendent Americans Sam Watson and Emma Hunt, a strong Chinese team lead by Deng Lijuan, Zurrloni, Mawem, both Kaluckas, and the Indonesian team all clashing in an Olympic bracket is simply going to be must watch. Hope I can get tickets in resale.

It is a direct qualification based on scores from the two events. Scores are just based on standing in each event. The ranking was used to decide qualification to the OQS (along with some extra slots for continental leaders, host leaders, and universality)

Just a way of saying how dedicated a fan I am of his. He’s elevating the hype I have for the sprints in a way not even Bolt did. Even though the 100m is looking more competitive I’ve always enjoyed the 200m more.

Gonna go top 6 in order: 6. All mixed relays, triathlon, track, swimming 5. Men’s 200 m sprint (if Noah Lyles has no fans I’m dead) 4. Women’s football 3. Cycling Road Races 2. BMX freestyle 1. Boulder/Lead sport climbing (thus the profile picture)

Interesting to see how many new climbers reached the final for the women. If young talent starts to appear more this year there could be some favorites that miss the Olympics.

Sport Climbing Olympians at the first World Cup events in Keqiao and Wujiang: Keqiao Apr 8th - Apr 10th Bouldering, Men: Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 2020 gold medalist Jakob Schubert (AUT) - 2020 bronze medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Lead and Combined World Champion Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) - 2020 4th place, 2024 qualifier Mickael Mawem (FRA) - 2020 5th place, 2023 Bouldering World Champion Colin Duffy (USA) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier Jong-won Chon (KOR) - 2020 10th place Yufei Pan (CHN) - 2020 14th place Toby Roberts (GBR) - 2024 qualifier Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 2024 qualifier Bouldering Women: Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 2020 gold medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Bouldering and Combined World Champion Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 2020 silver medalist Jessica Pilz (AUT) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier Chaehyun Seo (KOR) - 2020 8th place Kyra Condie (USA) - 2020 11th place Laura Rogora (ITA) - 2020 15th place Petra Klingler (SUI) - 2020 16th place Mia Krampl (SLO) - 2020 18th place Oceana Mackenzie (AUS) - 2020 19th place, 2024 qualifier Yueting Zhang (CHN) - 2024 qualifier Wujiang Apr 12th - Apr 14th: Lead Men: Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 2020 gold medalist Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) - 2020 4th place, 2024 qualifier Colin Duffy (USA) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier Yufei Pan (CHN) - 2020 14th place Jong-won Chon (KOR) - 2020 10th place Toby Roberts (GBR) - 2024 qualifier Sorato Anraku (JPN) - 2024 qualifier Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 2024 qualifier Lead Women: Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 2020 gold medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Bouldering and Combined World Champion Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 2020 silver medalist Chaehyun Seo (KOR) - 2020 8th place Kyra Condie (USA) - 2020 11th place Laura Rogora (ITA) - 2020 15th place Petra Klingler (SUI) - 2020 16th place Mia Krampl (SLO) - 2020 18th place Yueting Zhang (CHN) - 2024 qualifier Speed Men: Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) - 2020 11th place Ludovico Fossali (ITA) - 2020 19th place Matteo Zurloni (ITA) - 2024 qualifier, 2023 Speed World Champion Jinbao Long (CHN) - 2024 qualifier Samuel Watson (USA) - 2024 qualifier Rahmad Adi Mulyono (INA) - 2024 qualifier Julian David (NZL) - 2024 qualifier Speed Women: Aleksanda Misoslaw (POL) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) - 2024 qualifier, 2023 Speed World Champion Emma Hunt (USA) - 2024 qualifier Piper Kelly (USA) - 2024 qualifier Lijuan Deng (CHN) - 2024 qualifier Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) - 2024 qualifier

Solid Dos a cero from vs in CONCACAF nations league. Very excited for the Copa America with how this US team has been playing at home.

Have to admit it wasn't my first choice but more of an effect of ticket packages and trip timing. When buying tickets in a pack there were restrictions to just one popular event so of the ones that were left Modern Pentathlon was the best value. Still excited, can't get a better venue then Versailles and the mix of fencing, swimming, and equestrian will make for a unique spectator experience. The men's marathon will also pass through Versailles while the pentathlon is underway so I might get a look at that as well.

Hello all! I'm Book. A long time fan of the Olympics but only recently started lurking on this forum, looking for qualification updates. Thought I'd pop in and start talking now, seems like a fun crowd. I'm from the US, born in Los Angeles and spent most of my life in Oregon, now living in Massachusetts. My first memories of sports was at a rec center built as part of a parks initiative of the 1984 games. After getting the Olympic bug in 2008 I convinced my parents to drive me up to Vancouver in 2010 where we stayed in Canada just long enough to see the first two heats of 2 man bobsleigh. I was luckily able to get some tickets to Football, Athletics, Rhythmic Gymnastics, and Modern Pentathlon for Paris, so my Olympic hype is at an all time high right now. Looking for some sport climbing tickets still. On the forum I hope to be a resident expert on US Track and Field trials and LA 2028 planning, anything Olympics on the US west coast I'll chat to anyone about.