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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

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the Championships start Tomorrow...

 

here you can find the competition schedule:

https://www.innsbruck2018.com/en/sport/competition-schedule.html

 

meanwhile you can find a small but very useful recap of the main rules of the game...for all those who're not so "in touch" with Sport Climbing:

https://www.innsbruck2018.com/en/detail/artikel/a-laymans-introduction-to-ifsc-rules.html

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and here's (part of) a post about this tournament I wrote in the general thread a few days ago:

 

(...)

I'm really curious to see how the combined (olympic) event is going to develop...

for this year's champs I expect Ondra, Schubert, McColl and the Japanese guys (maybe also someone from France) to dominate the men's field, meanwhile I think the women's event is gonna be more open to some surprising winner (even though a battle between JPN and SLO is more likely than any other option)...

 

my 2 cents (more a preview than a prediction)...

 

Women's Lead:

the medallists will be among this girls: Garnbret (SLO), Pilz (AUT), Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Verhoeven (BEL)...anybody else would be a major upset

 

Men's Lead:

Ondra (CZE), Ghisolfi (ITA), Megos (GER), Schubert (AUT), Desgranges (FRA), the entire Slovenian team

 

Women's Boulder:

Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Gejo (SRB), Garnbret (SLO), Coxey (GBR), Gibert (FRA)...with the US girls as very dangerous outsiders

 

Men's Boulder:

it's gonna be a SLO vs JPN vs Ondra (CZE) question, but Hojer (GER) and Rubtsov (RUS) must not be underestimated

 

Women's Speed:

RUS vs POL vs INA (if they are not done after their home Asian Games) with Joubert (FRA) as the only other option

 

Men's Speed:

Boldyrev (UKR), Mawem (FRA), Alipourshenadzandifar (IRI), the Indonesians and the Russians (hoping for some Italian surprise, too...especially by Fossali)

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29 minutes ago, phelps said:

Men's Speed:

Boldyrev (UKR), Mawem (FRA), Alipourshenadzandifar (IRI), the Indonesians and the Russians (hoping for some Italian surprise, too...especially by Fossali)

 

his name is just Alipour. obviously someone forgot to add a "space" between two parts of his surname. the 2nd part of surnames are often (99% cases) to be ignored for Iranian names. nobody in Iran knows him by anything but Reza Alipour. it happens a lot with Iranian names. that's why sometimes you see crazy long names. :d

 

the Asian Games was the first time I was watching a combined competition (maybe the first combined event ever in an official competition ?!) and surprisingly for me they multiply the scores (which I wasn't aware of) ! so there is a huge difference if you win one of those 3 events instead of finishing 2nd. for example if you win something and finish 10th in another one you will get 10 negative points. but if you finish 2nd and 9th you will have 18 neg points ! huge difference. and in the final round "speed event" was a kind of knockout system. not a "qualification system".

 

we had a 7th place finish in Jakarta in combined event and she lost the final by the narrowest possible margin ! I wonder if it means there is a chance (even slim) for Olympic qualification . how good are Asian climbers in this combined event ?!

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2 ore fa, MHSN ha scritto:

 

his name is just Alipour. obviously someone forgot to add a "space" between two parts of his surname. the 2nd part of surnames are often (99% cases) to be ignored for Iranian names. nobody in Iran knows him by anything but Reza Alipour. it happens a lot with Iranian names. that's why sometimes you see crazy long names. :d

 

the Asian Games was the first time I was watching a combined competition (maybe the first combined event ever in an official competition ?!) and surprisingly for me they multiply the scores (which I wasn't aware of) ! so there is a huge difference if you win one of those 3 events instead of finishing 2nd. for example if you win something and finish 10th in another one you will get 10 negative points. but if you finish 2nd and 9th you will have 18 neg points ! huge difference. and in the final round "speed event" was a kind of knockout system. not a "qualification system".

 

we had a 7th place finish in Jakarta in combined event and she lost the final by the narrowest possible margin ! I wonder if it means there is a chance (even slim) for Olympic qualification . how good are Asian climbers in this combined event ?!

 

thanks for the explaination about Reza's name...

 

at the World Champs, the combined event final (with the 6 best athletes according to the summary of the 3 individual events qualifications) will have speed as the 1st event, then Boulder and finally Lead...so, I think there won't be a knockout system in the Speed phase, but I'm not sure about anything, since this is the 1st time it will be contested at the World Champs)...

however, this is not a premiere overall, since last year we had the European Champs in this same combined event (held separately from any other competition) and we also had the Junior Worlds a couple of weeks ago...

 

in lead, boulder and probably combined event Asian climbers are very good, I'd say dominant if we look at the Japanese men and women...

then there's also the Korean Kim Ja In among the girls...

meanwhile Chinese and Indonesians (+ Alipour) are pure speed specialists, so, as I wrote in the general thread, I don't think they have a real chance to make it to the Olympics (especially because we're going to have only 20 starters in both men and women's Olympic competitions -with max 2 climbers per Nation- which is a very small number if you think that lead and boulder events in world cup stages normally have more than 100 starters -even if the powerhouses generally start up to 10 athletes each), since the format heavily favors the lead & boulder specialists...

the only hope could be the fact that this event, being totally new to every climber, can develop in the most unexpected way in a very short time...

as I wrote above, I'm really curious to see how this thing's going to work out in Innsbruck (and in the next couple of years)...

Edited by phelps

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1 hour ago, phelps said:

 

thanks for the explaination about Reza's name...

 

at the World Champs, the combined event final (with the 6 best athletes according to the summary of the 3 individual events qualifications) will have speed as the 1st event, then Boulder and finally Lead...so, I think there won't be a knockout system in the Speed phase, but I'm not sure about anything, since this is the 1st time it will be contested at the World Champs)...

however, this is not a premiere overall, since last year we had the European Champs in this same combined event (held separately from any other competition) and we also had the Junior Worlds a couple of weeks ago...

 

in lead, boulder and probably combined event Asian climbers are very good, I'd say dominant if we look at the Japanese men and women...

then there's also the Korean Kim Ja In among the girls...

meanwhile Chinese and Indonesians (+ Alipour) are pure speed specialists, so, as I wrote in the general thread, I don't think they have a real chance to make it to the Olympics (especially because we're going to have only 20 starters in both men and women's Olympic competitions -with max 2 climbers per Nation- which is a very small number if you think that lead and boulder events in world cup stages normally have more than 100 starters -even if the powerhouses generally start up to 10 athletes each), since the format heavily favors the lead & boulder specialists...

the only hope could be the fact that this event, being totally new to every climber, can develop in the most unexpected way in a very short time...

as I wrote above, I'm really curious to see how this thing's going to work out in Innsbruck (and in the next couple of years)...

 

in AG for the finals they had 3 direct knockout matches between 6 finalists, winners + the the best loser made it to the semifinal and go on

while in the qualification, it was just best of two runs and they sorted athletes based on that.

 

of course I know there is no chance for Alipour, he won't even try the combined event. actually I'm thinking if Japan and Korea complete their quotas before the Asian qualifiers, (that's my question if they are capable of that or not) there will be a slim (but realistic) chance for our climbers , for example in AG, if we exclude Japanese/Korean climbers, Rekabi was 1st in boulder and 2nd in lead , but her very poor result in Speed was costly and she lost the final on tiebreaker to one of Japanese girls.

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4 hours ago, MHSN said:

 

his name is just Alipour. obviously someone forgot to add a "space" between two parts of his surname. the 2nd part of surnames are often (99% cases) to be ignored for Iranian names. nobody in Iran knows him by anything but Reza Alipour. it happens a lot with Iranian names. that's why sometimes you see crazy long names. :d

 

But why this happens so many times with some many competitors? It's an error by the organizers or the iranians who submit the names? :mumble:

 

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5 minutes ago, vinipereira said:

 

But why this happens so many times with some many competitors? It's an error by the organizers or the iranians who submit the names? :mumble:

 

 

yes it happens so many times, well I think they just copy/paste names from the passports, the problem is the organization who makes these passports. :thumbdown: I know the process . they give you a form to write your name in English and whatever nonsense you write that will go to your passport ! they never care to fix possible mistakes.

 

the 2nd part is usually very long and never be used in Iran unless for official documents, I mean if you check the Persian media. you can't find Reza Alipour-Shenazandifar even once. not at all.

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Well I hope that Stasa will be in top 10 in boulder and in top 20 in combined competition

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2 ore fa, MHSN ha scritto:

 

in AG for the finals they had 3 direct knockout matches between 6 finalists, winners + the the best loser made it to the semifinal and go on

while in the qualification, it was just best of two runs and they sorted athletes based on that.

 

of course I know there is no chance for Alipour, he won't even try the combined event. actually I'm thinking if Japan and Korea complete their quotas before the Asian qualifiers, (that's my question if they are capable of that or not) there will be a slim (but realistic) chance for our climbers , for example in AG, if we exclude Japanese/Korean climbers, Rekabi was 1st in boulder and 2nd in lead , but her very poor result in Speed was costly and she lost the final on tiebreaker to one of Japanese girls.

 

well, looking at the qualification rules, I think Japan (they only have 1 host Nation quota) will easily earn their 2nd spot at the 2019 World Champs (which will be held in Tokyo)...

then "timing" could play a decisive game for some Countries (Iran included)...because if the Continental Champs will be held before the global qualification tournament (towards the end of 2019, but not yet officially scheduled right now), then we could have 1 if not 2 Koreans competing for a single spot, which could prove a problem for your climbers...

meanwhile if we have let's say at least 1 Korean qualified through the World Champs and/or the World Cup and the World qualifier held before the Continental Champs, then the chances for athletes from Countries other than KOR and JPN would increase a lot...

all this, provided that the Chinese don't start taking Olympic Climbing seriously and, above all, someone from Russia doesn't change his/her Nationality to any of the Asian former Soviet Republics (something like that could change the entire Olympic qualification perspective for the Asian Continent...apart for Japan, of course)...

 

p.s. I just gave a look at the Olympic format...in the final (with 6 climbers), the speed part of the event will be contested with the format: Quarterfinals (#1 vs #6 seed, #2 vs #5 and #3 vs #4), then Semifinals (the 3 winners and the "lucky -best time- loser" of the 3 QTF heats) and 3rd place + 1st place Finals...

therefore, I think they will use the same format also in the upcoming Worlds...

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Day 1 was dedicated to the Women's Lead Qualification...

 

and those are the 26 women qualified for the Semifinals (listed in reverse order of the qualification result):

 

:USA Margo Hayes
:RUS Anna Zaikina
:UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova
:SUI Petra Klingler
:RUS Ekaterina Kipriianova
:FRA Manon Hily
:FRA Hélène Janicot
:SUI Anne-Sophie Koller
:SLO Mia Krampl
:AUT Sandra Lettner
:BEL Heloïse Doumont
:KOR Sol Sa
:SUI Katherine Choong
:ITA Laura Rogora
:JPN Miho Nonaka
:JPN Mei Kotake
:SLO Lucka Rakovec
:GBR Molly Thompson-Smith
:AUT Christine Schranz
:AUT Hannah Schubert
:JPN Akiyo Noguchi
:USA Ashima Shiraishi
:BEL Anak Verhoeven
:KOR Ja In Kim
:AUT Jessica Pilz
:SLO Janja Garnbret

 

p.s. 5 of those girls were born in the year 2000 (1) or 2001 (4)...

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