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Just now, phelps said:

I like this route...

 

and Coxsey is on top!

 

and on top of the ranking!!!

 

now pressure is growing for Janja...

Yes, this is a nice classic strength boulder. These are my best type. I really struggle on the dynamic ones. I don’t understand how to do those at all. 

 

I’m more of a lead climber anyways 

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This 4th climb seems simple to understand, but very methodical and physically taxing.

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Janja 

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I’ve never enjoyed climbing at 2:04AM before. I think there’s something to desired about watching after a full nights sleep 

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Just now, Gianlu33 said:

This is stupid, really. The starting position too was quite hard...

It’s challenging, but not too hard. Getting in that position actually seems to be quite helpful when going for those two tiny holds.

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Just now, phelps said:

to me, they should forget about the yellow handle and try and stabilize their position on the first blue...then going "upwards"...

The problem with that move is that there’s nothing to really stabilize your position. That’s a pretty tough move for any climber.

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Janja 

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Just now, phelps said:

however, OK...it's the world championship, but once again (like last year) they're just killing the show with such kind of routes, especially for the girls...

I liked the first route. This second one is completely ridiculous though.

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Just now, Gianlu33 said:

I have in on my TV

The Italian girl really struggled because of her height in the Semifinal . This should be a great final though.

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Anyone watching the women’s final now?

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Well it sure was an interesting semifinal to say the least. Here are some stats and facts for y’all.

 

• 7 out of 80 possible tops made
• 3 tops for Garnbret
• 1 top on boulder 1
• 2 tops on boulder 2
• 2 tops on boulder 3
• 2 tops on boulder 4

 

It was an incredibly brutal semifinal. I’ll have a full write up available on Totallympics Media’s website after the women’s final.

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Women's Boulder

 

Climbers qualified to the Final Round

 

6.  Shuana Coxsey

5.  Miho Nonaka

4.  Ievgeniia Kazbekova (huge surprise)

3.  Nakaka Kura 

2.  Akiyo Noguchi

1.  Janja Garnbret

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Just now, heywoodu said:

Crap, boulder finals today already. I'm a little behind on watching the season and am now finishing up the Wujiang boulder World Cup  Still Munich, Vail, Villars, Chamonix and Briançon to go  (not sure which of those are boulder as well, apart from Munich which is)

Very interesting competition today. I’m pulling some form of a semi all-nighter just to watch 

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I hate that the Boulder Semifinals and Finals are on the same day. It makes the event impossible to cover as a journalist. Plus, the Tokyo time zone doesn’t help.

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5 hours ago, phelps said:

All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube...

Generally with great commentary too. This isn’t the Olympic qualification event right?

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13 minutes ago, Dragon said:

In the UK Millennials are those between 1980 and 1996.

From 1997 they are Generation Z

 

And no, I don't understand it either

Yes, that is the definition of millennial in the US too. We have abandoned the idea and of Generation Z. We’ve adopted the Lost Generation (Lost because they are “lost” technology) or at least that’s what’s being floated around currently. I would still self-identify as a millennial though.

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6 hours ago, phelps said:

 

we definitely have a different interpretation of the definition "Millennial"...

 

to me (and I'm not the only one -YT sport climbing broadcasters for sure agree with me), it's just "those born in the year 2000 and later"...

That’s like the exact opposite of the actual definition, but ok.

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37 minutes ago, phelps said:

the young Korean sensation does it again! and this time beating Queen Janja herself...

 

p.s. at the age of 20, Garnbret last night was the oldest climber in the field in the women's final...the only non "Millennial" (she was born in 1999)...

None of those women are millennials. The millennial generation ended in 1996. People aren’t sure what to call the new generation because of the rapid growth we’ve seen in society. Those born between 96-02 are kind of in a lost zone.

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1 hour ago, heywoodu said:

Who on earth is supposed to beat Garnbret in Tokyo, apart from possibly Noguchi?  

I would actually label Noguchi and Garnbret as equal favorites. Their both really weak in speed climbing, so presumably a decent boulder and lead climber could leap frog them with an outstanding performance. I would put some money on Coxsey or Kim to battle for the podium. 

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1 hour ago, phelps said:

 

his style might not be perfect, but he's the best climber ever...and his climbs on the most difficult walls out in the mountains are something unbelievable, watching him on a 9b/9c wall is just amazing...

Our climbing grades are very different 

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Just now, heywoodu said:

Hahahahaha.

 

  Hide contents

This laugh was brought to you by Adam Ondra  

 

You know his style is not clean, not exciting, but it gets the job done and I respect that.

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I’ve never seen a “hand-jam” before. Seems very difficult. None of these have ever been set at my gym while I’ve been there.

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14 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Men's final is well underway by now, two boulders done and we're now into the third boulder. Interesting competition so far  

Just logged on to say the same thing. Course set has been good. Not particularly exciting Climbing, like what I expect to see during the Olympics, but this has been an interesting competition. Especially since I boulder, some of these are very similar to the hardest problems at my gym.

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3 hours ago, AlFHg said:

PanAmerican qualification event, February 27 - March 1, Los Angeles,

Well, I’ll see if I can attend this one 

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2 hours ago, phelps said:

 

South Africa is actually the only African Nation with a proper Sport Climbing Federation (even if their athletes never show up at world cup events nor got in the past any relevant result)...

this is the current situation:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/ifsc-structure/members-federations

which means that the African and Oceanian qualification events are basically a farce...

unless...unless some French climber with African heritage (and there are some more than decent, if not really good) decides to opt for plan B and get a safe spot for the Olympics through his/her family ties...

I believe Botswana has a native (as in born there) climber who’s competed at the World Championships