Olympian1010 7,521 Posted August 10, 2023 #101 Share Posted August 10, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, De_Gambassi said: Very-minimal-educated-opinion. Speed Climbing is unbelievable the first time you watch it, but it gets old very fast and not that exciting really. I would like they come up with a new route each time (witch climbers having a few days/weeks prior to the competition to figure it out the fastest way to climb it) Edit: maybe a longer route also if that's possible. I could be wrong, but I believe that is the idea of the speed-classic discipline. You don’t see too many of those comps anymore unfortunately… You’re opinion is shared by a lot of climbers too. Personally, I find speed entertaining enough now (though maybe too random). However, I think that format would probably be interesting as well (and maybe in the traditional spirit of sport climbing). Edited August 10, 2023 by Olympian1010 Josh 1 “Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,951 Posted August 10, 2023 #102 Share Posted August 10, 2023 6 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said: I could be wrong, but I believe that is the idea of the speed-classic discipline. You don’t see too many of those comps anymore unfortunately… You’re opinion is shared by a lot of climbers too. Personally, I find speed entertaining enough now (though maybe too random). However, I think that format would probably be interesting as well (and maybe in the traditional spirit of sport climbing). the traditional spirit of sport climbing is represented only and exclusively by the lead event anything else, it's just been created to help the development and the spreading of the discipline outside its traditional (small) world and to try and catch some media coverage (not to mention the abominable combined event, born on the sole aim to earn the Olympic status despite being far from any existing concept in sport climbing until 4/5 years ago) p.s. however, I agree in large part with the idea expressed by our friend @De_Gambassi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olympian1010 7,521 Posted August 10, 2023 #103 Share Posted August 10, 2023 31 minutes ago, phelps said: the traditional spirit of sport climbing is represented only and exclusively by the lead event I think many climbers would consider bouldering in that spirit as well. It might not be as historically prestigious or prized as lead/big route climbing, but it’s definitely come into its own in the last decade. Even your traditionalist climbers like Ondra or Honnold train bouldering for fun or improvement on the big climbs. Josh 1 “Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff88 1,737 Posted August 11, 2023 #104 Share Posted August 11, 2023 (edited) 6 hours ago, Gianlu33 said: Interesting that Indonesia, despite they dominated since some years, never won a medal at WCh until now.. That's the 1st Indonesian medal ever. Yeah we often do not participate or send minimum effort teams to WCh That’s why the media is always clueless, every other World Cup Series the mainstream media headlines will be something like: “INDONESIAN SPEED CLIMBERS SWEEPS THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS” and the poor readers start to “correct” people who said that World Cups are just a circuit tournament Edited August 11, 2023 by Griff88 maestro and Gianlu33 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gianlu33 3,616 Posted August 11, 2023 #105 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Women's combined final is on course, with 3 quotas to award. Some boulders are really nice. Josh and maestro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gianlu33 3,616 Posted August 11, 2023 #106 Share Posted August 11, 2023 After the boulder: Garnbret 84.9 Raboutou 69.8 Pilz 69 Bertone 54.7 Nonaka 54.4 Mori 4.5 Sanders 24.6 Kim 14.1 Lead starts now. maestro and Josh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gianlu33 3,616 Posted August 11, 2023 #107 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Amazing lead for Kim But honestly I don't think that this will be enough Josh and maestro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gianlu33 3,616 Posted August 11, 2023 #108 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Good climb for Pilz, that should be pass at 90% maestro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gianlu33 3,616 Posted August 11, 2023 #109 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Now it's official, 1st olympic quota goes to Pilz. Still two quotas to assign. maestro and Josh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh 5,983 Posted August 11, 2023 #110 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Quota for Ai Mori! maestro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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