heywoodu 13,562 Posted August 15, 2023 #121 Share Posted August 15, 2023 What was up with the order of the lead in the men's combined final? I swear the women started in opposite order of the boulder result, as one would expect: this way, the tension is built up. However, in the men's final, the order seemed entirely random, resulting in possible situations of having climbers start their lead in such a position they already can't mathematically win the gold anymore....that's just odd and makes for a rather mediocre viewing experience... I feel like there was some reason why it was mixed up...? Josh 1 If you'd like to help our fellow Totallympics member Bruna Moura get to the 2026 Winter Olympics, after her car crash on the way to the 2022 Olympics, every tiny bit of help would be greatly appreciated! Full story and how to help can be found here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De_Gambassi 896 Posted August 15, 2023 #122 Share Posted August 15, 2023 10 minutes ago, heywoodu said: What was up with the order of the lead in the men's combined final? I swear the women started in opposite order of the boulder result, as one would expect: this way, the tension is built up. However, in the men's final, the order seemed entirely random, resulting in possible situations of having climbers start their lead in such a position they already can't mathematically win the gold anymore....that's just odd and makes for a rather mediocre viewing experience... I feel like there was some reason why it was mixed up...? I don't remember it was the case for the women neither. I guess the logic behind it is that the boulder event by itself is not a great predicator of the future medallists, and that the results of the combined SF is a better one. Josh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De_Gambassi 896 Posted August 15, 2023 #123 Share Posted August 15, 2023 Anyway, who cares. Hopefully, post-2024, we won't see it anymore Josh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heywoodu 13,562 Posted August 15, 2023 #124 Share Posted August 15, 2023 2 hours ago, De_Gambassi said: Anyway, who cares. Hopefully, post-2024, we won't see it anymore Yes, seeing three separate medal events would definitely be a lot better. If that actually happens, I am glad with the short-lived existence of the combined though, since it definitely would have helped putting climbing on the map (considering without the combined it wouldn't have been Olympic). And climbing is one of the super rare additions which I personally find to actually add something different in a good way, so if the combined helped with that, I can tolerate it for two Olympic cycles (as long as from 2028 on we have separate events) Josh and Jinzha 2 If you'd like to help our fellow Totallympics member Bruna Moura get to the 2026 Winter Olympics, after her car crash on the way to the 2022 Olympics, every tiny bit of help would be greatly appreciated! Full story and how to help can be found here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,893 Posted August 15, 2023 #125 Share Posted August 15, 2023 3 hours ago, heywoodu said: What was up with the order of the lead in the men's combined final? I swear the women started in opposite order of the boulder result, as one would expect: this way, the tension is built up. However, in the men's final, the order seemed entirely random, resulting in possible situations of having climbers start their lead in such a position they already can't mathematically win the gold anymore....that's just odd and makes for a rather mediocre viewing experience... I feel like there was some reason why it was mixed up...? it was the reverse order of the result of the semifinal round (and it was the same also for the women), that's the rule it was just a case* that in the women's event the climax was built slowly because the lead specialists also proved to be the best combined specialists *actually, it happened because the values are way more established than in the men's division in the men's event, instead, things were so balanced that in the final they went in a quite different way compared to the semis Josh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heywoodu 13,562 Posted August 15, 2023 #126 Share Posted August 15, 2023 2 hours ago, phelps said: it was the reverse order of the result of the semifinal round (and it was the same also for the women), that's the rule it was just a case* that in the women's event the climax was built slowly because the lead specialists also proved to be the best combined specialists *actually, it happened because the values are way more established than in the men's division in the men's event, instead, things were so balanced that in the final they went in a quite different way compared to the semis Right, that makes sense, although definitely is a terrible way of holding the lead portion of the combined Theoretically it's possible that the athlete who opens the lead portion gets such a high score in both boulder and lead, that after his lead climb, the remaining 7 finalists already have literally no chance anymore to win, that's absurd Josh 1 If you'd like to help our fellow Totallympics member Bruna Moura get to the 2026 Winter Olympics, after her car crash on the way to the 2022 Olympics, every tiny bit of help would be greatly appreciated! Full story and how to help can be found here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,893 Posted August 15, 2023 #127 Share Posted August 15, 2023 31 minutes ago, heywoodu said: Right, that makes sense, although definitely is a terrible way of holding the lead portion of the combined Theoretically it's possible that the athlete who opens the lead portion gets such a high score in both boulder and lead, that after his lead climb, the remaining 7 finalists already have literally no chance anymore to win, that's absurd which is what happened with Schubert in the men's event (and in part with Pilz among the women) he's good but not very consistent in boulder, so it might happen that he has an average overall result one day (in the semis) and an amazing result on another given day (the final) and this basically kills the flow of the competition Josh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,893 Posted August 15, 2023 #128 Share Posted August 15, 2023 personally, I think they might start the boulder part according to the boulder world ranking and then give the climbers a bit more rest between boulder and lead finally, in the lead stint they could go in reverse order than the boulder part of the same round (quali/semi/final), but IFSC does have different ideas Josh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsensioWillemsen 123 Posted August 18, 2023 #129 Share Posted August 18, 2023 On 8/15/2023 at 8:36 PM, heywoodu said: Right, that makes sense, although definitely is a terrible way of holding the lead portion of the combined Theoretically it's possible that the athlete who opens the lead portion gets such a high score in both boulder and lead, that after his lead climb, the remaining 7 finalists already have literally no chance anymore to win, that's absurd This kinda happened with Pilz, who could only be beaten by Garnbret afterwards if I recall correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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