Sport Climbing IFSC Olympic Qualifier Series 2024

[avlar 372]

2 hours ago, copravolley said:

In my opinion, it should be like in judo everywhere: regularly updated rankings + possibly some knock-offs in May/June. 

They have it right here (for Speed climbing points are awarded)

 

https://olympics.com/en/sport-events/olympic-qualifier-series-2024-shanghai/global-standings

 

It will be a very short multi-stage event ) With 2 stages only )

Edited May 18 by avlar

[Book 70]

Final Men’s Combined Boulder & Lead Shanghai

 

1.)   Lee Dohyun - 34.5/100/134.5 (50 pts)

2.)  Alberto Ginés-Lopez - 24.5/100/124.5 (45 pts)

3.)  Adam Ondra - 64.0/60.1/124.1 (41 pts)

4.)  Paul Jenft - 49.1/64.0/113.1 (38 pts)

5.)  Sascha Lehmann - 14.3/96.1/110.4 (36 pts)

6.)  Hannes van Duysen -34.5/60.1/94.6 (35 pts)

7.)  Hamish McArthur - 48.8/45.1/93.9 (34 pts)

8.)  Sam Avezou - 9.8/0.0/9.8 (33 pts)

Edited May 19 by Book
Add final comp points

[Book 70]

Lots of interesting outcomes from this final. After two previous rounds of difficult low scoring lead the final sees 3 athletes touch the top hold while the highest boulder score accounts for only 2/4 tops.
 

That lead round resulted in Lee Dohyun to take the 50 from Shanghai, putting the South Korean inches from an Olympic quota. Alberto Ginés-Lopez shows us why he’s a rightful Olympic champion with a perfect lead to get silver at the comp. An end to his best performance in the sport since his Tokyo gold medal. Adam Ondra ends up only able to use his high boulder score to get 3rd.

 

On the other hand, rough day for Sam Avezou with a very low boulder score and a complete flop on lead, falling before getting to the first scored hold. Still, 8th is not a bad rank in the tight race for France’s two quotas.

Edited May 19 by Book

[Book 70]

Women's Combined Final Results, Shanghai

1.)  Brooke Raboutou: 83.8/57.1/140.9 (50 pts)

2.)  Seo Chaehyun: 54.2/80.1/134.3 (45 pts)
3.)  Erin McNeice: 59.7/68.1/127.8 (41 pts)

4.)  Miho Nonaka: 59.6/68.1/127.7 (38 pts)
5.)  Futaba Ito: 59.4/57.1/116.5 (36 pts)

6.)  Ievgeniia Kazbekova: 59.1/48.1/107.2 (35 pts)

7.)  Luo Zhilu: 59.7/39.1/98.8 (34 pts)

8.)  Zélia Avezou: 39.4/57.1/96.5 (33 pts)

Edited May 19 by Book

[Book 70]

Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece  getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year. 

Nearly perfect competition for  with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.

 

And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou.  The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.


I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.

[Nickyc707 382]

2 hours ago, Book said:

Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece  getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year. 

Nearly perfect competition for  with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.

 

And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou.  The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.


I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.

Peaking in climbing is always a positive move. 

[MHSN 3,619]

looking at men's speed Q results, by my count those athletes didn't make it to the knockout round are mathematically out.

 

we have 3 Indonesians fighting for 1 quota
3 Chinese climbers fighting for 1

 

and 10 more athletes trying for 5 quotas.

 

their names with their previous round score

 

 Tkach (38)

 Alipour (35)
 Hammer (34)
 Maimuratov (30)
 Shin (29)
 Noya (26)

 Ilchyshin (25)

 Fossali (21)
 Yasukawa (12)
 Khaibullin (9)

 

I think Maimuratov is pretty much safe with the fastest time in the qualifiers. even if he loses, 9th place will be enough for him (99%). almost no chance for the last two. so I say it's like 7 athletes for 4 quotas.

 

Edited June 21 by MHSN

[Illya 511]

Ievgeniia Kazbekova become first-ever Ukrainian athlete in sport climbing at the Olympics 

 

So proud of her after she injured her leg at the Olympic Qualifier in France last cycle and got COVID before EuCh. 

[rybak 3,217]

Ola Kałucka did qualified to Paris, expected, but I'm happy anyway 

[MHSN 3,619]

Men's speed qualified athletes by my calculation 

 Leonardo

 Wu

 Maimuratov

 Hammer

 Alipour

 Tkach

 Shin