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Sport Climbing IFSC Olympic Qualifier Series 2024


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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, copravolley said:

In my opinion, it should be like in judo everywhere: regularly updated rankings + possibly some knock-offs in May/June. 

They have it right here (for Speed climbing points are awarded)

 

https://olympics.com/en/sport-events/olympic-qualifier-series-2024-shanghai/global-standings

 

It will be a very short multi-stage event ) With 2 stages only )

Edited by avlar
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Posted (edited)

Final Men’s Combined Boulder & Lead Shanghai

 

1.) :KOR  Lee Dohyun - 34.5/100/134.5 (50 pts)

2.) :ESP Alberto Ginés-Lopez - 24.5/100/124.5 (45 pts)

3.) :CZE Adam Ondra - 64.0/60.1/124.1 (41 pts)

4.) :FRA Paul Jenft - 49.1/64.0/113.1 (38 pts)

5.) :SUI Sascha Lehmann - 14.3/96.1/110.4 (36 pts)

6.) :BEL Hannes van Duysen -34.5/60.1/94.6 (35 pts)

7.) :GBR Hamish McArthur - 48.8/45.1/93.9 (34 pts)

8.) :FRA Sam Avezou - 9.8/0.0/9.8 (33 pts)

Edited by Book
Add final comp points
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Posted (edited)

Lots of interesting outcomes from this final. After two previous rounds of difficult low scoring lead the final sees 3 athletes touch the top hold while the highest boulder score accounts for only 2/4 tops.
 

That lead round resulted in Lee Dohyun to take the 50 from Shanghai, putting the South Korean inches from an Olympic quota. Alberto Ginés-Lopez shows us why he’s a rightful Olympic champion with a perfect lead to get silver at the comp. An end to his best performance in the sport since his Tokyo gold medal. Adam Ondra ends up only able to use his high boulder score to get 3rd.

 

On the other hand, rough day for Sam Avezou with a very low boulder score and a complete flop on lead, falling before getting to the first scored hold. Still, 8th is not a bad rank in the tight race for France’s two quotas.

Edited by Book
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Posted (edited)

Women's Combined Final Results, Shanghai

1.) :USA Brooke Raboutou: 83.8/57.1/140.9 (50 pts)

2.) :KOR Seo Chaehyun: 54.2/80.1/134.3 (45 pts)
3.) :GBR Erin McNeice: 59.7/68.1/127.8 (41 pts)

4.) :JPN Miho Nonaka: 59.6/68.1/127.7 (38 pts)
5.) :JPN Futaba Ito: 59.4/57.1/116.5 (36 pts)

6.) :UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova: 59.1/48.1/107.2 (35 pts)

7.) :CHN Luo Zhilu: 59.7/39.1/98.8 (34 pts)

8.) :FRA Zélia Avezou: 39.4/57.1/96.5 (33 pts)

Edited by Book
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Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece :GBR getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year. 

Nearly perfect competition for :KOR with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.

 

And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou. :USA The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.


I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.

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2 hours ago, Book said:

Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece :GBR getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year. 

Nearly perfect competition for :KOR with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.

 

And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou. :USA The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.


I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.

Peaking in climbing is always a positive move. :d

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

looking at men's speed Q results, by my count those athletes didn't make it to the knockout round are mathematically out.

 

we have 3 Indonesians fighting for 1 quota
3 Chinese climbers fighting for 1

 

and 10 more athletes trying for 5 quotas.

 

their names with their previous round score

 

:UKR Tkach (38)

:IRI Alipour (35)
:USA Hammer (34)
:KAZ Maimuratov (30)
:KOR Shin (29)
:ESP Noya (26)

:UKR Ilchyshin (25)

:ITA Fossali (21)
:JPN Yasukawa (12)
:KAZ Khaibullin (9)

 

I think Maimuratov is pretty much safe with the fastest time in the qualifiers. even if he loses, 9th place will be enough for him (99%). almost no chance for the last two. so I say it's like 7 athletes for 4 quotas.

 

Edited by MHSN
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