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45 minutes ago, phelps said:

 

Frankly, it wouldn't be a serious Olympic Tournament without him...

 

there was no doubt he would eventually make it...

 

imho, Ondra is the main favourite for the Olympic Gold, with Pan (in 8 months time he's going to improve a lot...he's definitely on the rising curve of his still very young career) and the Japanese guys right behind him...

Schubert and McColl will be in the medal hunt too. The Germans seem a but weak currently, but they too could feature. I think about 3/4ths of those currently qualified have a legitimate medal chance.

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On 25/11/2019 at 02:31, phelps said:

 

tbh, I'm against those granted spot for the Host Nation...they should qualify as any other representative, especially in team sports/team events of the individual sports...

Except that there should be a reward for hosting the Olympics. Also, sports without home participation don’t generally get as many spectators. Plus, it’s just fun to see home athletes in events.

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30 minutes ago, MHSN said:

They still have to decide about Ghisfoli and Gines but since Ondra topped the wall that doesn't matter anymore.

 

Quotas for:

 

Ondra

Pan

Gines

Hojer

Mawem

Coleman

If Coleman qualified that would be rather unexpected. To be honest, I wasn’t sure if the US would qualify anyone. Great performance clearly 

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4 minutes ago, Vojthas said:

It is somewhere about 13 minutes after the start.

Ah, thanks. @MHSN @Laraja I’ve never seen that happened at the World Cup level, but that’s a semi-normal occurrence in indoor climbing. Some holds are just tough to bolt down, and sometimes some just come loose.

Edited November 28, 2019 by Olympian1010

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30 minutes ago, MHSN said:

what the hell was that !?   was it "made in China" ?!

I just woke up and tuned in, what happened?

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59 minutes ago, Jose Luis said:

In the qualifier there will be a qualification phase and a final. The question is whether the final will be of 8 or 10 climbers?

according to rules of climbing federation would be 8 (pages 60 to 64) https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v192_PUBLIC.pdf

 According to the web of the event would be 6 finalists in the combined event  https://www.ffme.fr/escalade/page/tournoi-de-qualification-olympique.html

If it’s a dry run of the Olympic format, there should only be six finalists. The World Championships format would be 8 finalists. I’d prefer 8, just to keep the competition interesting throughout.

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I have mad respect for any who’s successful in the combined format. I’ve been training Boulder and belay in the same sessions for weeks, and I’ve marginally improved at either. If I specialized I feel like I’d be much better at Route (belay) Climbing. I just don’t have the strength for Boulder yet. 

 

These guys make it look so, so easy, but let me tell you; when you try the comp routes, you realize how impossible what they’re doing is.

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On 11/09/2019 at 13:44, Olympian1010 said:

I’ll be volunteering as a judge at a USASC Youth Climbing Competition at my gym this week. It will definitely help broaden my knowledge of the sport, and I’ll be better able to explain scores and judge decisions during the Tokyo 2020 Olympics next year. Plus, making sure young athletes have the proper platform to one day possibly make it to the Olympics is important too.

That was super exhausting. The gym had to be 200 F degrees. I had to judge 3 separate routes for 5 different divisions. Apparently I judged our national youth C champion at some point.

 

It sounds like we’ll get a chance at the routes. I’m freaken tried, so I might not. This takes the number of sports I’ve judged, refereed, or volunteered at to at least 5 off the top of my head. Saw some great climbing and learned quite a bit about the sport too. Hopefully that knowledge is hopeful for reporting purposes.

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I’ll be volunteering as a judge at a USASC Youth Climbing Competition at my gym this week. It will definitely help broaden my knowledge of the sport, and I’ll be better able to explain scores and judge decisions during the Tokyo 2020 Olympics next year. Plus, making sure young athletes have the proper platform to one day possibly make it to the Olympics is important too.

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3 hours ago, heywoodu said:

https://www.climbing.com/competition/highs-and-lows-2019-climbing-world-championships/

 

 

Wow, really?

 

 

Because the US didn’t send out climbers to the 2018 YOG, which is technically an Olympics. All the other qualified countries besides  did.

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@phelps There were South Africans at 2019 Worlds by the way

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3 hours ago, phelps said:

 

I'm not sure they can even organize a continental championship in Africa, as they never show up at any competition (apart from a couple of South African among the juniors, but we all know how strict are RSA with their own qualifying criteria, so I think that there's no chance for them to get an Olympic spot)...

 

that's why I wrote about match criteria (the main one, organizing a Continental Champs and not rejecting the quota when they get it)...

If we look at Africa, here’s a quick breakdown.

South Africa hosts competitions yearly. In fact their national championships acted as the African qualification for YOG. They would be the favorite to take the quota should they except it this cycle.

South Africa is also the only full member of the IFSC on the African continent.

There is one associate member though. Cameroon could potentially show up and win a free spot. I never seen a climber compete from Cameroon though, so that is a very small possibility.

There are some more African Climbing federations at the continental level.

Algeria, Rwanda, and Senegal all are full members with the African Climbing Federation. I’m sure they’d be allowed to qualify should they show up. Once again, I’ve never seen a climber from there, so the possibility is small.

The last chance is Botswana. I have seen a climber from there post results as recently as 2 years ago. If that climber was to show up at the African qualifier the quota would almost for sure be theirs.

 

So I wouldn’t write off African qualification just yet, there are a few possibilities out there.

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Miho Nonaka  decided not to compete in the lead semifinals in order to rest for the combined. She is struggling with minor shoulder injuries though, so I don’t blame her.

Edited August 15, 2019 by Olympian1010

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Very physical walls in the semifinals. I think the route setters did a great job. Both routes are fun to watch. We may not see any tops, but the routes should definitely differentiate the good and the bad.

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Just now, JoshMartini007 said:

 

Well he was the combined world champion at the 2012, 2014 and 2016 editions

His form hasn’t been this good in a while though. Hopefully he’s found that type of form again.

Edited August 14, 2019 by Olympian1010

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1 hour ago, Quasit said:

There shouldn't be any music playing at most sports events in my opinion, unless it's fitting ambience.

As an athlete I personally loved competing with background music. Especially as an Endurance athlete, it was nice to able to take my mind off the pain.

 

As an athlete I preferred an empty stadium with background music, to a stadium full spectators.

Edited August 14, 2019 by Olympian1010

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@JoshMartini007 @intoronto Sean McColl is looking like he’s on great form to qualify for the next Olympics here. I don’t think his speed times are terrible...

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6 minutes ago, phelps said:

Women's Boulder

 

Final Result

 

Gold: Janja Garnbret
Silver: Akiyo Noguchi
Bronze: Shauna Coxsey

4th, Ievgeniia Kazbekova
5th, Miho Nonaka
6th, Nanako Kura
 

Full Competition Final Ranking

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=8253&cat=5&route=-1

Full review of the competition: https://games24.totallympics.com/?p=421

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Just now, Gianlu33 said:

Deserved gold after an amazing season, i'm very happy for her

Very much agree. It’s Janja season 

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I can sleep now!!!!!!!!

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It’s all in Garnbret’s hands now, and those hands generally know how to climb.

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Commentators: “climbers don’t like spending money”

 

tell that to my gym membership, purpose built shoes, chalk rentals, and gas money 

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Just now, phelps said:

Kazbekova doesn't seem to have any clue to complete this route...

 

still, she's currently on the bronzemedal seat...she must hope that Noguchi doesn't beat her with the last attempt...

Yeah, I wanted her to medal, but I don’t think she’s the most deserving. She’s kind of lucked out today.

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Just now, phelps said:

 

I'm not a climber at all...

 

but Lead is definitely my favourite discipline in Sport Climbing...

Yes, I find it much more enjoyable than bouldering. It also requires a little more endurance, which is more my style. I will say that there’s no feeling like topping a Boulder you didn’t think you could.

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Just now, phelps said:

I fear that if you don't make it with the first attempt, there's a high risk of getting arms and legs burning too much to succeed with the following attempts...

Also why people hate classic strength problems.