phelps 6,862 Posted August 2, 2019 #1 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019 Hachioji (JPN) - 11 August 2019 - 21 August 2019 Official Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 2, 2019 Author #2 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Schedule of Events (GMT +9) Sunday, August 11th h.10.00, women's Boulder Qualification Monday, August 12th h.10.00, men's Boulder Qualification Tuesday, August 13th h.09.00, women's Boulder Semifinal h.12.45, men's Boulder Semifinal h.16.45, women's Boulder Final h.20.00, men's Boulder Final Wednesday, August 14th h.10.00, women & men's Lead Qualification Thursday, August 15th h.11.00, women & men's Lead Semifinals h.19.00, women's Lead Final h.20.00, men's Lead Final Saturday, August 17th h.12.30, women & men's Speed Qualification h.17.30, women & men's Speed Finals Sunday, August 18th h.11.00/11.55/16.10, women's Combined Qualification (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day) Monday, August 19th h.11.00/11.55/16.10, men's Combined Qualification (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day) Tuesday, August 20th h.16.30/17.25/19.35, women's Combined Final (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day) Wednesday, August 21st h.16.30/17.25/19.35, men's Combined Final (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 2, 2019 Author #3 Share Posted August 2, 2019 All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube... heywoodu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olympian1010 7,477 Posted August 2, 2019 #4 Share Posted August 2, 2019 5 hours ago, phelps said: All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube... Generally with great commentary too. This isn’t the Olympic qualification event right? “Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heywoodu 13,557 Posted August 2, 2019 #5 Share Posted August 2, 2019 5 hours ago, phelps said: All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube... Like in the World Cups, one of the many good reasons why sports climbing very much deserved to be Olympic. No dumb pay-walls (haha, walls) or stuff that's impossible to find, no, the whole season can be watched for free with excellent commentary on the single best streaming platform Olympian1010 1 If you'd like to help our fellow Totallympics member Bruna Moura get to the 2026 Winter Olympics, after her car crash on the way to the 2022 Olympics, every tiny bit of help would be greatly appreciated! Full story and how to help can be found here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 2, 2019 Author #6 Share Posted August 2, 2019 1 hour ago, Olympian1010 said: Generally with great commentary too. This isn’t the Olympic qualification event right? Oh, yes...I forgot to post it earlier... This is also the first chance to qualify to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games... directly from the official qualification pamphlet: "The seven (7) highest placed athletes per gender at the (Combined Event of the) World Championships will be allocated one (1) quota place, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC (2 women, 2 men)". "The quota place is allocated to the athlete(s) by name." "The Host Country is guaranteed one (1) male and one (1) female athlete." (which means that Japan still can qualify 1 woman and/or 1 man through the qualification pathway, World Champs included)... Full qualification system is here: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/FINAL_-_2019-02-01_-_Tokyo_2020_-_Qualification_System_-_Sport_Climbing_-_eng.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 11, 2019 Author #7 Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) Time to Climb This week not only marks the start of the IFSC Climbing World Championships Hachioji 2019 but the first official Olympic qualifying event in the history of Sport Climbing. Over 253 athletes from 39 different countries are registered to compete in the 12-day event that will include lead, bouldering, speed and combined. Bouldering: Garnbret Seeks Another Win The IFSC Bouldering World Cup season might have concluded in June, but the climbers are back at it again for the World Championship title. After sweeping the world cup circuit, all eyes will be on Janja GARNBRET (SLO) to see if she can defend her title from Innsbruck and continue her winning streak. Both Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) and Fanny GIBERT (FRA) are expected to compete to try to take the title from her. This will be the first World Championship event for the surprise winner of the Vail World Cup, Yoshiyuki OGATA (JPN). The Bouldering World Championship will also set up a rematch between Adam ONDRA (CZE) and Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) after their close battle for the 2019 Bouldering Overall Season title. Lead: Reigning Champions vs. Stiff Competition Austria claimed both Lead gold medals at last year’s World Championship and Jessica PILZ and Jakob SCHUBERT are back once again to take on the lead wall. While there have only been three world cup events so far this season, Chaehyun SEO (KOR) is beginning to stand out from the pack with two back-to-back gold medals and a win against GARNBRET, she is a strong contender for the women’s Lead title. ONDRA and this Lead Season’s frontrunner Alexander MEGOS (GER) are expected put the pressure on SCHUBERT for the coveted first place position on the podium in Hachioji after both finished in second and third place respectively in 2018. Speed: Rematches and World Records The Speed World Cup series has featured several different winners and a tight race in the overall rankings. Last year’s podium finishers are back for another chance at a medal, while this season’s top athletes seek to take their place. Innsbruck gold medalist and current men’s world record holder, Reza ALIPOUR (IRI) is up against the current overall leader for the season, Bassa MAWEM (FRA). Russia’s Vladislav DEULIN and Dmitrii TIMOFEEV are also registered to compete. New women’s world record holder, SONG Yi Ling (CHN) is participating in her first World Championship and seems to be the one to beat this year. Will a new world record be set in Hachioji? Combined: The Climb to Tokyo Starts Here History will be made at this year’s World Championships as the top Sport Climbing athletes go toe-to-toe in the first Olympic qualifying event. The best 20 climbers out of the 172 competing in Bouldering, Lead and Speed will fight in the Combined during the final three days of the World Championships. Seven of the highest placed athletes per gender, with a maximum of 2 per country will qualify for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games. As Team Japan continues to dominate the rankings this year, the question of who will represent the host country at the Olympics is about to be determined. Both NARASAKI and NOGUCHI had strong Bouldering seasons and competed in the Lead Finals in Villars, while Miho NONAKA qualified for the Villars Speed Finals. Kai HARADA and Kokoro FUJII are also strong contenders for the men’s combined, finishing in fourth and sixth in last year’s Combined event in Innsbruck, respectively. All Credits to IFSC (ifsc-climbing.org) Edited August 11, 2019 by phelps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 11, 2019 Author #8 Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) Women's Boulder Climbers qualified to the Semifinal Round 20th, Urska Repusic 19th, Mia Krampl 18th, Anne-Sophie Koller 17th, Zhang Yue Tong 16th, Shauna Coxsey 15th, Miho Nonaka 14th, Luce Douady 13th, Ievgeniia Kazbekova 12th, Sofya Yokoyama 11th, Alannah Yip 10th, Laura Rogora 9th, Kyra Condie 8th, Seo Chae Hyun 7th, Lucka Rakovec 6th, Nanako Kura 5th, Fanny Gibert 4th, Futaba Ito 3rd, Petra Klingler 2nd, Akiyo Noguchi 1st, Janja Garnbret Full Qualifications Results https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=8253&cat=5 Edited August 13, 2019 by phelps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 11, 2019 Author #9 Share Posted August 11, 2019 no major surprise in the first event of the 2019 world championships... all the expected stars of the game are there, in the top positions and ready to fight for the medals... just a couple of things...first, the young Korean sensation Seo Chae Hyun is very competitive also in Bouldering (not that it wasn't expected, but it was still to be proven), which means she could be a real threat for Garnbret and the Japanese armada also in the Olympic Combined discipline (her speed skills are still unknown); second, very good team effort by the Swiss girls...and this wasn't so obvious before the start of the competion (yeah, Petra Klinger was among the top climbers, but the other girls didn't have such good reputation as their leader)... finally, some good news also for Italy, with Laura Rogora easily qualifying for the Boulder semis... considering that she's also a very good Lead specialist (last year she narrowly missed the final at the world champs), there's still a reasonable chance she can at least qualify for the Olympic Combined competition at the end of this tournament... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phelps 6,862 Posted August 12, 2019 Author #10 Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) Men's Boulder Climbers qualified to the Semifinal Round 20th, Sergei Skorodumov 19th, Jan Hojer 18th, Michael Piccolruaz 17th, Rudolph Ruana 16th, Nathaniel Coleman 15th, Jernej Kruder 14th, Nathan Phillips 13th, Manuel Cornu 12th, Meichi Narasaki 11th, Sean McColl 10th, Kai Harada 9th, Jakob Schubert 8th, Yannick Flohè 7th, Keita Dohi 6th, Rai Sugimoto 5th, Tomoa Narasaki 4th, Chon Jong Won 3rd, Kokoro Fujii 2nd, Adam Ondra 1st, Yoshiyuki Ogata Full Qualifications Results https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=8253&cat=6 Edited August 13, 2019 by phelps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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