Sport Climbing Qualification to Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games

[phelps 7,675]

Ondra needs to start at least in 1 speed event to make the combined ranking...

 

and even if he doesn't make any point in that event, he has so many from Lead and Boulder that it won't be a problem for him to qualify to the OQT (but it remains to be seen if he wants to fly to Far East in October, as normally he's used to skip those competitions...

 

just to make an example: Alex Megos is 8th in the Overall World Cup Ranking with the following Speed results: 109th at the 2018 World Champs, then 84th, 81st, 62nd, 83rd in this season's world cup events and 75th a few days ago at this year's Worlds...

and he does have only 2 medals (1x silver, 1x bronze) + 2 podium places in all Lead and Boulder events (actually, he also has a win from last year, too...but it's going to be discarded once the next ranking will be published, as it's from late July 2018)...

[Cmon Mary 27]

Is there a limit to the number of athletes per NOC that can go to the OQT?  I cannot see anything in the Qualification System that sets a limit other than the top 20 from the Combined World Cup ranking (excl those already qualified at the Worlds).  I presume that countries that already have a maximum of two athletes qualified would not send anyone to the OQT (i.e. Japan), but could others, like Slovenia, send more than one even though they already have one place secured?

[ratelesjo 12]

Overall World Cup standings for Men and Women

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Men-27.10.2019.pdf

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Women-27.10.2019.pdf

 

Top 20 not yet qualified will be selected for end of November OQT in Toulouse.

Edited October 27, 2019 by ratelesjo

[Cmon Mary 27]

On 06/10/2019 at 14:43, Cmon Mary said:

Is there a limit to the number of athletes per NOC that can go to the OQT?  I cannot see anything in the Qualification System that sets a limit other than the top 20 from the Combined World Cup ranking (excl those already qualified at the Worlds).  I presume that countries that already have a maximum of two athletes qualified would not send anyone to the OQT (i.e. Japan), but could others, like Slovenia, send more than one even though they already have one place secured?

 

 

Answered my own question as it is a limit of two per NOC that take part in the Qualifier - https://ifsc-egw.wavecdn.net/Editors/2019/i19_W2.pdf.  There does not appear to be a different limit for those countries that have already obtained one place, eg Slovenia.

[phelps 7,675]

47 minutes ago, ratelesjo said:

Overall World Cup standings for Men and Women

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Men-27.10.2019.pdf

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Women-27.10.2019.pdf

 

Top 20 not yet qualified will be selected for end of November OQT in Toulouse.

 

 

according to my quick calculation, based on this rankings, these should be the Lists of selected Climbers:

 

 

women

 

01 Lucka Rakovec
02 Zhang Yue Tong
03 Fanny Gibert
04 Kim Ja In
05 Julia Chanourdie
06 Mia Krampl
07 Kyra Condie
08 Song Yi Ling
09 Sa Sol
10 Ashima Shiraishi
11 Aries Susanti Rahayu
12 Ievgeniia Kazbekova
13 Laura Rogora
14 Alanna Yip
15 Elnaz Rekabi
16 Aleksandra Kalucka
17 Sandra Lettner
18 Iuliia Kaplina
19 Oceania McKenzie
20 Elena Krasovskaia*

*Cut-off at Rank #31

 

 

men

 

01 Adam Ondra
02 Pan Yu Fei
03 Jan Hojer
04 William Bosi
05 Sascha Lehmann
06 Manuel Cornu
07 Nikolai Yarilovets
08 Chon Jong Won
09 Alberto Ginès Lopez
10 Bassa Mawem
11 Yannick Flohè
12 Alfian Muhammad
13 Alberto Ghisolfi
14 Anze Peharc
15 Nathaniel Coleman
16 Sean Bailey
17 Jernej Kruder
18 Aleksei Rubtsov
19 Zhong Qi Xin
20 Marcello Bombardi*

*Cut-off at Rank #31

[Jose Luis 45]

In the qualifier there will be a qualification phase and a final. The question is whether the final will be of 8 or 10 climbers?

according to rules of climbing federation would be 8 (pages 60 to 64) https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v192_PUBLIC.pdf

 According to the web of the event would be 6 finalists in the combined event  https://www.ffme.fr/escalade/page/tournoi-de-qualification-olympique.html

[Olympian1010 7,976]

59 minutes ago, Jose Luis said:

In the qualifier there will be a qualification phase and a final. The question is whether the final will be of 8 or 10 climbers?

according to rules of climbing federation would be 8 (pages 60 to 64) https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v192_PUBLIC.pdf

 According to the web of the event would be 6 finalists in the combined event  https://www.ffme.fr/escalade/page/tournoi-de-qualification-olympique.html

If it’s a dry run of the Olympic format, there should only be six finalists. The World Championships format would be 8 finalists. I’d prefer 8, just to keep the competition interesting throughout.

[Vojthas 949]

Normally federations try to close the qualification tournaments format as close to the Olympic one as possible (looking at the example of modern pentathlon). So this should be six finalists with all of them qualifying (with the NOC limits saved) and four best non-qualified to the final (or more if the NOC limit applies to any finalist).

[Dunadan 1,103]

8 finalists, 6 quota places for the Olympics.

 

6 finalists was the old format, now there are 8 so they can have a speed event with quarter/semi/finals.

[Dunadan 1,103]

CONFIRMED QUALIFIED ATHLETES

As of  04.11.2019 

WOMEN					MEN
1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO		1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN		2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR		3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL		4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN		5	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
6	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI		6	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
7	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA		7	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
8	PILZ	Jessica	AUT		8	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/olympic-games

 

and the starters for the qualifier in Toulouse: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=8322

So apparently Japan is allowed to send climbers even if they can't qualify