Sport Climbing Qualification to Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games

[Olympian1010 8,228]

2 hours ago, phelps said:

 

South Africa is actually the only African Nation with a proper Sport Climbing Federation (even if their athletes never show up at world cup events nor got in the past any relevant result)...

this is the current situation:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/ifsc-structure/members-federations

which means that the African and Oceanian qualification events are basically a farce...

unless...unless some French climber with African heritage (and there are some more than decent, if not really good) decides to opt for plan B and get a safe spot for the Olympics through his/her family ties...

I believe Botswana has a native (as in born there) climber who’s competed at the World Championships 

[Olympian1010 8,228]

3 hours ago, AlFHg said:

PanAmerican qualification event, February 27 - March 1, Los Angeles,

Well, I’ll see if I can attend this one 

[JoshMartini007 2,762]

I don't think South Africa has confirmed the same qualification policy as 2016, but I wouldn't be surprised if they kept it.

[phelps 8,278]

3 ore fa, Olympian1010 ha scritto:

I believe Botswana has a native (as in born there) climber who’s competed at the World Championships 

 

no, he didn't compete at the world champs...at least this year...

 

by the way, this is a quick recap of climbers from Oceania and Africa showin'up at both the senior and youth worlds this year

 

men's senior worlds (participants and results)
RSA Calrin Curtis (101st in Lead, 99th in Boulder, 73rd in Speed, which means 72nd -out of 87 starters- in Combined)
RSA Joseph Rosendorff (104th in Speed)
AUS Campbell Harrison (83rd in Lead, 132nd in Boulder)
NZL George Sanders (107th in Lead, 99th in Boulder, 82nd in Speed, which means 75th -out of 87 starters- in Combined)
AUS Josef Sundakov-Krumins (87th in Boulder)

 

women's senior worlds (participants and results)
AUS Oceania MacKenzie (35th in Lead, 27th in Boulder, 39th in Speed, which means 26th -out of 67 starters- in Combined)
AUS Tiffany Melius (63rd in Lead, 57th in Boulder, 62nd in Speed, which means 47th -out of 67 starters- in Combined)
AUS Lucinda Ann Stirling (69th in Lead, 83rd in Boulder)
NZL Erica Gatland (89th in Lead, =92nd in Boulder, 85th in Speed, which means 64th -out of 67 starters- in Combined)
AUS Roxy Perry (91st in Lead, =92nd in Boulder)
AUS Emma Horan (95th in Lead, 63rd in Boulder)
NZL Lucy Whitehead (99th in Lead, =92nd in Boulder, 80th in Speed, which means 63rd -out of 67 starters- in Combined)
AUS Leah Jeffries (=92nd in Boulder)

women's youth worlds (only the number of participants)
youth A Boulder: 2x NZL
youth B Boulder: 2x AUS, 2x NZL, 3x RSA
junior Boulder: 1x AUS, 2x NZL
youth A Lead: 2x AUS, 2x NZL
youth B Lead: 2x AUS, 2x NZL, 2x RSA
junior Lead: 1x AUS, 2x NZL
youth A Speed: 2x AUS, 2x NZL
youth B Speed: 1x AUS, 2x NZL
junior Speed: 2x NZL

 

men's youth worlds (only the number of participants)
youth A Boulder: 3x AUS, 1x NZL, 3x RSA
youth B Boulder: 4x AUS, 2x NZL, 4x RSA
junior Boulder: 4x AUS, 2x NZL, 3x RSA
youth A Lead: 3x AUS, 2x RSA
youth B Lead: 4x AUS, 2x NZL, 4x RSA
junior Lead: 3x AUS, 2x NZL, 3x RSA
youth A Speed: 2x AUS, 1x NZL, 2x RSA
youth B Speed: 2x AUS, 2x NZL, 1x RSA
junior Speed: 2x AUS, 2x NZL, 1x RSA

[hckošice 15,503]

Updated as of August 19th, 2019

[Dragon 2,026]

 

[JoshMartini007 2,762]

10 minutes ago, Dragon said:

 

 

Eight quotas were allocated at the world championships thanks to the host quota being reallocated. Regardless Japan has two quotas.

[Dunadan 1,103]

42 minutes ago, JoshMartini007 said:

 

Eight quotas were allocated at the world championships thanks to the host quota being reallocated. Regardless Japan has two quotas.

 

Am I reading it wrong or does the article imply that Ondra can't take part in the Qualification Event in Toulouse? (as if they were going to consider the World Cup ranking as of now instead of waiting for the end of the season, which seems illogical to me)

 

Quote

Another big surprise was lead world championAdam Ondra, who made an uncharacteristic error in the lead segment of his combined qualification. The Czech climber reached the 34th hold, but was judged to have stepped and balanced on a bolt into which he was clipped just after the 10th hold. That placed him down in 18th, and as he's not on the World Cup combined rankings, one of the world's best lead and bouldering athletes is left clinging on to a possible qualification through next year's European Championships in Moscow in April.

 

[JoshMartini007 2,762]

Just now, Dunadan said:

Am I reading it wrong or does the article imply that Ondra can't take part in the Qualification Event in Toulouse? (as if they were going to consider the World Cup ranking as of now instead of waiting for the end of the season, which seems illogical to me)

 

I thought it would be at the end of the season, but I don't know much about sport climbing to know for sure.

[Dunadan 1,103]

Edit: ranking will be taken on 1 November  https://ifsc-egw.wavecdn.net/Editors/2019/i19_W2.pdf

and Ondra will have a good combined ranking by then if he starts in the Lead+Speed stage in October.

 

Edited August 19, 2019 by Dunadan