Sport Climbing IFSC Olympic Games Qualifier 2019

[De_Gambassi 1,369]

à l’instant, Nickyc707 a dit :

Do you know if the Frenchman who qualified today is related to the one who qualified at the WC?

 

Brother.

[Benolympique 2,438]

il y a 8 minutes, Nickyc707 a dit :

Do you know if the Frenchman who qualified today is related to the one who qualified at the WC?

yes they are the 2 brothers

[phelps 8,695]

Men's Qualification, Lead Result

 

1. Adam Ondra

=2. Stefano Ghisolfi

=2. Alberto Ginès Lòpez

 

Full Ranking:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=8322&cat=45&route=2

[NearPup 4,172]

Very nice to see  Ondra qualify after his unfortunate and controversial near-miss at Worlds.

[phelps 8,695]

Men's Qualification, Combined Final Results (Top 8 advancing to Saturday's Final)

 

1. Adam Ondra, 28 pts (Olympic Quota)

2. Pan Yufei, 49 pts (Olympic Quota)

3. Alberto Ginès Lòpez, 302.5 pts (Olympic Quota)

4. Jan Hojer, 312 pts (Olympic Quota)

5. Bassa Mawem, 420 pts (Olympic Quota)

6. Kokoro Fujii, 448 pts

7. Nathaniel Coleman, 450 pts (Olympic Quota)

8. Meichi Narasaki, 486 pts

 

Full Ranking:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=8322&cat=45&route=-1

[phelps 8,695]

2 minutes ago, NearPup said:

Very nice to see  Ondra qualify after his unfortunate and controversial near-miss at Worlds.

 

Frankly, it wouldn't be a serious Olympic Tournament without him...

 

there was no doubt he would eventually make it...

 

imho, Ondra is the main favourite for the Olympic Gold, with Pan (in 8 months time he's going to improve a lot...he's definitely on the rising curve of his still very young career) and the Japanese guys right behind him...

[phelps 8,695]

no comment, instead, on Ghisolfi's drama...he just killed himself with an awful speed performance, then he had a good (for his poor standard) bouldering, but not good enough to make up for the disaster in the 1st discipline...and finally, that heartbreaking lead climb...

 

by the way, it was obvious that they were not going to try and separate Ghisolfi and Ginès Lòpez, which means that actually there was not so much pathos as they tried to sell on the YT broadcast...the only way for the Italian to qualify for the final was to win (with no tie) the Lead discipline...and with the Spaniard tying his result, he was out all the way...

 

now he only has the very last continental spot up for grabs, but  it will be almost impossible for him, as it will be an event with also the already qualified specialist going to false the overall result, especially for those who only rely one 1 single very good special discipline and try to limit the damage in the other 2...

Edited November 28, 2019 by phelps

[Olympian1010 8,297]

45 minutes ago, phelps said:

 

Frankly, it wouldn't be a serious Olympic Tournament without him...

 

there was no doubt he would eventually make it...

 

imho, Ondra is the main favourite for the Olympic Gold, with Pan (in 8 months time he's going to improve a lot...he's definitely on the rising curve of his still very young career) and the Japanese guys right behind him...

Schubert and McColl will be in the medal hunt too. The Germans seem a but weak currently, but they too could feature. I think about 3/4ths of those currently qualified have a legitimate medal chance.

[NearPup 4,172]

4 hours ago, phelps said:

there was no doubt he would eventually make it...

Normally yes, but there are only three chances to qualify (and the last chance European tournament will be extremely competitive). He had an unfortunate incident once, it could have happened again this time.

[phelps 8,695]

13 hours ago, Olympian1010 said:

Schubert and McColl will be in the medal hunt too. The Germans seem a but weak currently, but they too could feature. I think about 3/4ths of those currently qualified have a legitimate medal chance.

 

McColl? no way...he's quite good in all the 3 standalone disciplines, but he's not good enough to be a winner of at least 1 stage...and you desperately need at least a "1" to be among the top guys in this Combined Format...

 

Schubert? yes, but only if he does really improve in the speed discipline (like Ondra, at least)..otherwise, with a "18" or worse as a multiplying factor, he doesn't have any chance...

 

what drives me crazy is the fact that most likely the medals will be decided by the weakest discipline for all the contenders...discipline which is also the most subject to the "luck" factor...I just can't get myself to appreciate this new kind of event...I'm really a conservative traditionalist for what concerns Sport Climbing...they must keep the 3 disciplines "standalone" only, as it's been until 2/3 years ago...