Sport Climbing Qualification to Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games

[Benolympique 2,398]

  On 11/24/2019 at 2:05 PM, Dunadan said:

CONFIRMED QUALIFIED ATHLETES

As of  04.11.2019 

WOMEN					MEN
1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO		1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN		2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR		3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL		4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN		5	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
6	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI		6	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
7	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA		7	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
8	PILZ	Jessica	AUT		8	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/olympic-games

 

and the starters for the qualifier in Toulouse: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=8322

So apparently Japan is allowed to send climbers even if they can't qualify 

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what happens if Japan finishes in the top 6 for the quotas?

[Dunadan 1,103]

  On 11/24/2019 at 2:13 PM, Benolympique said:

what happens if Japan finishes in the top 6 for the quotas?

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I think the quota is given to the next best ranked climber.

[phelps 7,775]

  On 11/24/2019 at 2:05 PM, Dunadan said:

CONFIRMED QUALIFIED ATHLETES

As of  04.11.2019 

WOMEN					MEN
1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO		1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN		2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR		3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL		4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN		5	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
6	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI		6	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
7	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA		7	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
8	PILZ	Jessica	AUT		8	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/olympic-games

 

and the starters for the qualifier in Toulouse: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=8322

So apparently Japan is allowed to send climbers even if they can't qualify 

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I really don't understand why they always have to make it so complicated...

 

moreover...I'm sure in the rulebook there was written that in the final qualification tournament only a maximum of 2 climbers per Nation could enter the tournament...

so, why do we have Japan with 4 men and France plus the USA with 3 girls in the starting list???

Edited November 24, 2019 by phelps

[Dunadan 1,103]

  On 11/24/2019 at 8:35 PM, phelps said:

moreover...I'm sure in the rulebook there was written that in the final qualification tournament only a maximum of 2 climbers per Nation could enter the tournament...

so, why do we have Japan with 4 men and France plus the USA with 3 girls in the starting list???

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Rule change...and apparently the Japanese sued IFSC because they confirmed their 2 quota places from the WCH but they want to be able to qualify more climbers and then choose 2 among them:

 

"The Japanese Mountains and Sports Climbing Association’s (JMSCA) original interpretation of the IFSC rules would allow them to essentially qualify their athletes for the Olympics at all three Olympic qualifying event. By their interpretation, they would have a pool of five athletes per gender (two from the World Championships, two from Toulouse and one from the Asian Championships) to choose from. If they named one athlete per gender (Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi) from the World Championships as their Olympic picks, then they essentially protected their host country spot until the end of the selection process. However, because the JMSCA named two athletes per gender for the Olympics following the World Championships (Narasaki and Kai Harada and Noguchi and Miho Nonaka), the IFSC is saying that Japan has filled their quota, used their host country spot, and competing at other Olympic qualifying events is pointless." (https://www.gymclimber.com/ifsc-sued-by-japanese-climbing-federation-and-athlete-invitations-frozen/)

 

This is insane from the Japanese federation honestly, they should have refused one quota and kept the host quota which was the only one given to the NOC rather than the athlete.

 

Edited November 24, 2019 by Dunadan

[phelps 7,775]

what a mess!

 

  On 11/24/2019 at 9:32 PM, Dunadan said:

 

Rule change...and apparently the Japanese sued IFSC because they confirmed their 2 quota places from the WCH but they want to be able to qualify more climbers and then choose 2 among them:

 

"The Japanese Mountains and Sports Climbing Association’s (JMSCA) original interpretation of the IFSC rules would allow them to essentially qualify their athletes for the Olympics at all three Olympic qualifying event. By their interpretation, they would have a pool of five athletes per gender (two from the World Championships, two from Toulouse and one from the Asian Championships) to choose from. If they named one athlete per gender (Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi) from the World Championships as their Olympic picks, then they essentially protected their host country spot until the end of the selection process. However, because the JMSCA named two athletes per gender for the Olympics following the World Championships (Narasaki and Kai Harada and Noguchi and Miho Nonaka), the IFSC is saying that Japan has filled their quota, used their host country spot, and competing at other Olympic qualifying events is pointless." (https://www.gymclimber.com/ifsc-sued-by-japanese-climbing-federation-and-athlete-invitations-frozen/)

 

This is insane from the Japanese federation honestly, they should have refused one quota and kept the host quota which was the only one given to the NOC rather than the athlete.

 

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and the last sentence in the linked article: "And big picture: Will this mess impact the International Olympic Committee’s opinion of Sport Climbing to the point of Sport Climbing being taken out of 2024?"

 

because of this, I'd ban the Japanese Federation for at least 5 years and leaving them out of their Home Olympics and the next one...

they are risking to put IFSC under bad lights and make them lose the chance to go from 2 to 4 events in 2024 (if not being kicked off completely by the IOC, even if I think that's really unlikely)...

frankly, that's absolutely unacceptable from a member federation...they must be severely punished...

Edited November 24, 2019 by phelps

[AlFHg 330]

  On 11/24/2019 at 9:50 PM, phelps said:

what a mess!

 

 

and the last sentence in the linked article: "And big picture: Will this mess impact the International Olympic Committee’s opinion of Sport Climbing to the point of Sport Climbing being taken out of 2024?"

 

because of this, I'd ban the Japanese Federation for at least 5 years and leaving them out of their Home Olympics and the next one...

they are risking to put IFSC under bad lights and make them lose the chance to go from 2 to 4 events in 2024 (if not being kicked off completely by the IOC, even if I think that's really unlikely)...

frankly, that's absolutely unacceptable from a member federation...they must be severely punished...

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Or, IOC can finally decide to give granted host quotas in all sports without creating further mess, as Sailing and judo do

[phelps 7,775]

  On 11/25/2019 at 12:11 AM, AlFHg said:

Or, IOC can finally decide to give granted host quotas in all sports without creating further mess, as Sailing and judo do

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tbh, I'm against those granted spot for the Host Nation...they should qualify as any other representative, especially in team sports/team events of the individual sports...

[Olympian1010 8,065]

  On 11/25/2019 at 10:31 AM, phelps said:

 

tbh, I'm against those granted spot for the Host Nation...they should qualify as any other representative, especially in team sports/team events of the individual sports...

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Except that there should be a reward for hosting the Olympics. Also, sports without home participation don’t generally get as many spectators. Plus, it’s just fun to see home athletes in events.

[phelps 7,775]

  On 11/28/2019 at 8:41 PM, Olympian1010 said:

Except that there should be a reward for hosting the Olympics. Also, sports without home participation don’t generally get as many spectators. Plus, it’s just fun to see home athletes in events.

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still, imho they have to deserve that reward, i.e. getting at least good (nobody ask them to be medal contenders) in that discipline...

 

what we saw last Summer with the Korean Waterpolo teams at the world champs is absolutely unacceptable to me...

[hckošice 15,073]

Updated as of March 1st, 2020