Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019

[heywoodu 16,004]

Just now, phelps said:

 

the Olympic Qualification is by name, so I guess she has to be 1 of the top 2 Japanese girls on Tuesday if she wants to play her part also in 12 months time...

Well crap. Hoping for some sort of miracle then, because this way it's just a useless battle  

[Olympian1010 8,230]

3 hours ago, phelps said:

 

I'm not sure they can even organize a continental championship in Africa, as they never show up at any competition (apart from a couple of South African among the juniors, but we all know how strict are RSA with their own qualifying criteria, so I think that there's no chance for them to get an Olympic spot)...

 

that's why I wrote about match criteria (the main one, organizing a Continental Champs and not rejecting the quota when they get it)...

If we look at Africa, here’s a quick breakdown.

South Africa hosts competitions yearly. In fact their national championships acted as the African qualification for YOG. They would be the favorite to take the quota should they except it this cycle.

South Africa is also the only full member of the IFSC on the African continent.

There is one associate member though. Cameroon could potentially show up and win a free spot. I never seen a climber compete from Cameroon though, so that is a very small possibility.

There are some more African Climbing federations at the continental level.

Algeria, Rwanda, and Senegal all are full members with the African Climbing Federation. I’m sure they’d be allowed to qualify should they show up. Once again, I’ve never seen a climber from there, so the possibility is small.

The last chance is Botswana. I have seen a climber from there post results as recently as 2 years ago. If that climber was to show up at the African qualifier the quota would almost for sure be theirs.

 

So I wouldn’t write off African qualification just yet, there are a few possibilities out there.

[phelps 8,282]

5 hours ago, Olympian1010 said:

If we look at Africa, here’s a quick breakdown.

South Africa hosts competitions yearly. In fact their national championships acted as the African qualification for YOG. They would be the favorite to take the quota should they except it this cycle.

South Africa is also the only full member of the IFSC on the African continent.

There is one associate member though. Cameroon could potentially show up and win a free spot. I never seen a climber compete from Cameroon though, so that is a very small possibility.

There are some more African Climbing federations at the continental level.

Algeria, Rwanda, and Senegal all are full members with the African Climbing Federation. I’m sure they’d be allowed to qualify should they show up. Once again, I’ve never seen a climber from there, so the possibility is small.

The last chance is Botswana. I have seen a climber from there post results as recently as 2 years ago. If that climber was to show up at the African qualifier the quota would almost for sure be theirs.

 

So I wouldn’t write off African qualification just yet, there are a few possibilities out there.

 

we already discussed about this question last year...

 

I haven't gone back to 2017 and earlier with my research, but last year no African climber did show up at the senior worlds nor in any world cup stage and only a few South Africans took part into the youth/junior worlds...

 

and also this year no African did show up at the senior worlds nor in any world cup stage so far...

 

so, the odds are all against any African climber getting a legitimate Olympic Quota (with reasonable expectation that the quota wouldn't be rejected it in case they somehow get it)...

 

and to be honest, imho they don't even deserve such privilege, as they don't seem to be very interested in a true development of the sport in their Continent...I'm OK with regional and/or Tripartite Commission quota, but only if behind them there's something going on, there's a growing movement (even if a low level one, but genuine and enthusiastic, at least)...

 

taking quota away from really dedicated athletes only for the pleasure of saying "we are global" even when that's not true, it doesn't make any sense to me...and it's not good for the sport, too...

[Olympian1010 8,230]

@phelps There were South Africans at 2019 Worlds by the way

[ofan 238]

The website for this event is absolutely useless. Does anyone have a link for live results?

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Just now, ofan said:

The website for this event is absolutely useless. Does anyone have a link for live results?

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=8633&cat=45&route=1

[EselTheDonkey 834]

I do not understand these live results. Why is Mawem from France only 19th right now, even though he finished 3rd in Speed and 8th in Boulder?

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Just now, EselTheDonkey said:

I do not understand these live results. Why is Mawem from France only 19th right now, even though he finished 3rd in Speed and 8th in Boulder?

Because it's wrong

 

[EselTheDonkey 834]

Thanks a lot, that explains everything.

 

By the way, some small correction: Megos finished 17th in Speed and not 14th.

[Dunadan 1,103]

Quota for:

 ?

 ?

 Alexander Megos

 Jakob Schubert

 Rishat Khaibullin

 Adam Ondra

 Mickael Mawem

 Ludovico Fossali

 

Edit: if Ondra loses the quota after the appeal,  Sean McColl is next in line

Edited August 19, 2019 by Dunadan