Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2022

[Griff88 1,971]

We only just passed the half of 2022 and we should get ready to throw away the dream of securing gold from sport climbing in Paris 2024 lol

 

 

I do hope they won't only end up as World Games champions which is a title unknown to 99.9% of Indonesian citizens

[heywoodu 15,335]

I'm watching the Chamonix lead finals at the moment, and by now I'm familiar with the sport and such (I've been watching every World Cup the past two years basically). One thing I still don't understand though: why is the tiebreaker in lead climbing finals the semi final result? If more than one athlete reach the top, shouldn't the result in the final itself be the number one decider? As in, if they get to the same hold (or top), why not just make the fastest ascent in the final count and only if that is equal too, go to the semi results?

 

It just feels...odd...if you didn't win the semi, you can have the best final of everyone and top the route in no-time, but still not win if someone who was better in the semi tops the route as well with a few seconds to go.

[phelps 7,797]

  On 7/14/2022 at 5:49 AM, heywoodu said:

I'm watching the Chamonix lead finals at the moment, and by now I'm familiar with the sport and such (I've been watching every World Cup the past two years basically). One thing I still don't understand though: why is the tiebreaker in lead climbing finals the semi final result? If more than one athlete reach the top, shouldn't the result in the final itself be the number one decider? As in, if they get to the same hold (or top), why not just make the fastest ascent in the final count and only if that is equal too, go to the semi results?

 

It just feels...odd...if you didn't win the semi, you can have the best final of everyone and top the route in no-time, but still not win if someone who was better in the semi tops the route as well with a few seconds to go.

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because lead is supposed to be the endurance event of sport climbing and the IFSC doesn't want to make it a "race" to the top (at the beginning of the game there wasn't even the time limit at 6 mins to complete the climb -and it was a longer climb to the top than nowadays)...

 

p.s. however, I also find this semifinal's result tie-breaker unfair and I'd like to go just to the climbing time in the final as the only tie-breaker (then, it's just a tie and stop), but I understand the idea that's behind this choice...

[heywoodu 15,335]

  On 7/14/2022 at 9:18 AM, phelps said:

because lead is supposed to be the endurance event of sport climbing and the IFSC doesn't want to make it a "race" to the top (at the beginning of the game there wasn't even the time limit at 6 mins to complete the climb -and it was a longer climb to the top than nowadays)...

 

p.s. however, I also find this semifinal's result tie-breaker unfair and I'd like to go just to the climbing time in the final as the only tie-breaker (then, it's just a tie and stop), but I understand the idea that's behind this choice...

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But endurance event or not, time is going to be a factor at some point. If two athletes reach the top in every single route in qualifying, semis and the final, they need to look at the time at some point. Why not just the final, so the best athlete of the final is the winner...

 

This is kind of like the pursuit in biathlon, where the best athlete of the 'final' isn't necessarily the winner. That feels unfair. But alright, I'm not competing  

[phelps 7,797]

  On 7/14/2022 at 9:26 AM, heywoodu said:

But endurance event or not, time is going to be a factor at some point. If two athletes reach the top in every single route in qualifying, semis and the final, they need to look at the time at some point. Why not just the final, so the best athlete of the final is the winner...

 

This is kind of like the pursuit in biathlon, where the best athlete of the 'final' isn't necessarily the winner. That feels unfair. But alright, I'm not competing  

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I agree with you...

 

but IFSC has a different idea...