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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018


Totallympics
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2 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

I thought the combined event was done in the end instead of simply a matter of taking the results of the individual events :d 

 

that's for the qualification, there is still a combined final left with probably top 6 athletes.

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3 minuti fa, heywoodu ha scritto:

I thought the combined event was done in the end instead of simply a matter of taking the results of the individual events :d 

 

it is...but to find the 6 climbers qualified to Sunday's finals, they compile a ranking taking the results of the 3 single competitions...

Edited by phelps
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16 ore fa, rybak ha scritto:

Someone can tell me how big are chance to see any Polish athlete in this sport in Tokyo?

 

I'd say almost 0 for the men, quite slim for the girls (those who are so good in the speed event must improve a lot also in at least 1 of the other 2 disciplines to have a real shot at it)...

that's because I expect from now to the next couple of years that quite a lot of lead/boulder specialist to eventually start working also on speed to consolidate their chances...

and as you might have noticed from the results of these world champs, there are many girls with already a strong pedigree in both lead and boulder, which gives them a big advantage over the sprint specialists, who normally are good only in that event...

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by the way, here's a quick recap of yesterday's events...

 

Women's Speed, climbers qualified to the Knockout Stage

 

:POL Aleksandra Rudzinska
:FRA Anouck Jaubert
:RUS Mariia Krasavina
:POL Aleksandra Kalucka
:RUS Anna Tsyganova
:POL Anna Brozek
:CHN Yi Song
:RUS Elizaveta Ivanova
:POL Patrycja Chudziak
:RUS Iuliia Kaplina
:FRA Victoire Andrier
:POL Natalia Kalucka
:CHN Di Niu
:RUS Ekaterina Barashchuk
:CHN Cui Lian He
:UKR Alla Marenych

 

 

Men's Speed, climbers qualified to the Knockout Stage

 

:IRI Reza Alipour
:FRA Bassa Mawem
:RUS Aleksandr Shikov
:RUS Vladislav Deulin
:RUS Stanislav Kokorin
:CHN Qi Xin Zhong
:ITA Ludovico Fossali
:UKR Kostiantyn Pavlenko
:ITA Leonardo Gontero
:CZE Jan Kriz
:POL Marcin Dzienski
:RUS Aleksandr Shilov
:RUS Dmitrii Timofeev
:CHN Peng Hui Lin
:KAZ Amir Maimuratov
:USA Jordan Fishman

 

 

Women's Speed

 

Gold: :POL Aleksandra Rudzinska

Silver: :POL Anna Brozek

Bronze: :RUS Mariia Krasavina

 

Full Competition Results here:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=24

 

 

Men's Speed

 

Gold: :IRI Reza Alipour

Silver: :FRA Bassa mawem

Bronze: :RUS Stanislav Kokorin

 

Full Competition Results here:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=23

Edited by phelps
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and here are the results of today's Boulder semifinals:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=5&route=2

 

Women's Boulder, climbers qualified to the Final

 

:JPN Miho Nonaka
:SRB Stasa Gejo
:AUT Jessica Pilz
:JPN Akiyo Noguchi
:SUI Petra Klinger
:SLO Janja Garnbret

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10 minuti fa, DaniSRB ha scritto:

@phelps, how they decide combined medalists?

 

there will be a Final event on Sunday with the 6 best athletes according to the combination of the final results of the single disciplines...

 

here you can find the current situation (things might change from now to the end of both boulder competitions):

https://wettkampf.austriaclimbing.com/kvoe/rk_ergebnis.php?idklasse=11&idbewerb=2107&rgsort=1

 

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Just now, phelps said:

 

there will be a Final event on Sunday with the 6 best athletes according to the combination of the final results of the single disciplines...

 

here you can find the current situation (things might change from now to the end of both boulder competitions):

https://wettkampf.austriaclimbing.com/kvoe/rk_ergebnis.php?idklasse=11&idbewerb=2107&rgsort=1

 

Thanks

 

it's weird that they also consider final/sf results 

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5 minuti fa, DaniSRB ha scritto:

Thanks

 

it's weird that they also consider final/sf results 

 

no, they use only the final result, the official ranking...

that table is just a preview of what would happen IF the final result was equal to the semifinal's...but those scores will eventually change after the final, when there will be an official ranking also for the combined event and the top 6 of that will compete for the medals on Sunday...

looking at that table, I think that among the women the top 5 positions are locked, but Gejo could overcome Sa if she can get 1st or 2nd tonight (3rd wouldn't be enough, since she would go to 1200 negative points, which is still behind sa's 1092)...

Edited by phelps
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