Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

[MHSN 3,777]

I just noticed we had a 21st place finish in bouldering while only top 20 could make it to the semifinals ! what a pity I didn't even know we have more than one athlete (beside Alipour of course) here. obviously they paid for their own trips.

[phelps 8,281]

1 ora fa, dareza ha scritto:

Hm 38., 3., and 35. for Gejo Imo she is in top 15 in combinated event for sure, but maybe she is in top 10?

 

I think she's way better than just "top 10"...she should be 7th (the first outside the final on Sunday)...

at a first quick look, I'd say she's behind only the Japanese duo Miho Nonaka & Akiyo Noguchi, the Slovenian Janja Garnbret, the Swiss Petra Klinger and the Austrian Jessica Pilz...

but this only if they use the qualification results of every single discipline...if they use the (final) general result, we still have to wait for the bouldering finals, which could change many things (only Nonaka, Garnbret and Kotake can consider themselves sure to make the top 6 in any case)...

 

edit: I also found out that the Korean Sa Sol should be better than Gejo...

maybe I was a bit too optimistic about her chances to make the final...

Edited September 13, 2018 by phelps

[dareza 911]

6 minutes ago, phelps said:

 

I think she's way better than just "top 10"...she should be 7th (the first outside the final on Sunday)...

at a first quick look, I'd say she's behind only the Japanese duo Miho Nonaka & Akiyo Noguchi, the Slovenian Janja Garnbret, the Swiss Petra Klinger and the Austrian Jessica Pilz...

but this only if they use the qualification results of every single discipline...if they use the (final) general result, we still have to wait for the bouldering finals, which could change many things (only Nonaka, Garnbret and Kotake can consider themselves sure to make the top 6 in any case)...

 

edit: I also found out that the Korean Sa sol should be better than Gejo...

maybe I was a bit too optimistic about her chances to make the final...

 

eh pity really. Result in lead was not that good. She was solid this year, but she had problems at this WC in that discipline.

[phelps 8,281]

however, I hope the official website would eventually give us an update about the combined event, because it's impossible to make all calculations by myself...

[MHSN 3,777]

Alipour finished first in the qualification. which is a bit surprising to me i was expecting him to be a bit out of shape right after the Asian Games. even though it still means nothing as we know how things work in knockout round. everything is possible. but at least being the top seed gives you a bit of confidence.

 

but I really don't like the format for speed knockout rounds. they have to make it best of 3 or something like that. during the Asian Games (if I'm not wrong ) 3 out of 4 speed finals ended up with false start !! that's no fun for the natural audience .

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Again a false start in an important phase of the event... They should modify something, I guess

[Gianlu33 5,276]

As expected, with a lot of luck in the final, Alipour won. What disaster for the French guy that don't touch the top 

Edited September 13, 2018 by Gianlu33

[heywoodu 16,004]

First time this is on Dutch TV (Eurosport) and I'm enjoying it a lot  

 

Commentator about the presence of so many Russians in the speed event:

 

"Russians love speed.....

....

I mean in climbing."

 

Spoiler

speed = metamphetamine

 

[heywoodu 16,004]

On 9-9-2018 at 21:38, phelps said:

p.s. just another thing about the lead finals (and semis)...call me a conservative, but I don't think that all that disco music and strobo lights in the arena during the climbs did help the athletes through their efforts...

Commentator here was wondering about that: can athletes choose their own music, or ask for no music at all? That should be the case if you ask me..

[heywoodu 16,004]

4 hours ago, MHSN said:

But I really don't like the format for speed knockout rounds. they have to make it best of 3 or something like that. during the Asian Games (if I'm not wrong ) 3 out of 4 speed finals ended up with false start !! that's no fun for the natural audience .

This, absolutely