Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019

[heywoodu 16,015]

2 minutes ago, Vojthas said:

EPO is not a "secret" potion anymore.

No, but one would be rather....dumb to think there's not a more secret one nowadays

[heywoodu 16,015]

https://www.climbing.com/competition/highs-and-lows-2019-climbing-world-championships/

 

Quote

Raboutou is the first American climber to qualify for an Olympic Games, ever

 

Wow, really?

 

 

[Olympian1010 8,231]

3 hours ago, heywoodu said:

https://www.climbing.com/competition/highs-and-lows-2019-climbing-world-championships/

 

 

Wow, really?

 

 

Because the US didn’t send out climbers to the 2018 YOG, which is technically an Olympics. All the other qualified countries besides  did.

[heywoodu 16,015]

3 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said:

Because the US didn’t send out climbers to the 2018 YOG, which is technically an Olympics. All the other qualified countries besides  did.

Yeah that's all cool and well, but there either is or should be separate Olympic Games stats and Youth Olympic Games stats  A YOG gold medalist is a Youth Olympic champion, not an Olympic champion.

[Dunadan 1,103]

More interesting, that's another article that claims that there are rumors that Japan will retain only the Olympic berths won by Noguchi and T. Narasaki, in order to be free to choose their second climber in both genders next year.

 

Edited August 22, 2019 by Dunadan

[heywoodu 16,015]

On 22/08/2019 at 18:15, Dunadan said:

More interesting, that's another article that claims that there are rumors that Japan will retain only the Olympic berths won by Noguchi and T. Narasaki, in order to be free to choose their second climber in both genders next year.

 

I would be kinda sad about that. Even with a double shoulder injury Nonaka managed to get a Japanese top-2 spot, she deserves the spot (possibly with some clause that says it's still open for someone else in case she's not fully recovered or something).

[Dunadan 1,103]

5 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

I would be kinda sad about that. Even with a double shoulder injury Nonaka managed to get a Japanese top-2 spot, she deserves the spot (possibly with some clause that says it's still open for someone else in case she's not fully recovered or something).

 

That's the point, it's a quota assigned to the athlete that must be accepted or refused by the Japanese NOC in the next couple of weeks (like the open water swimming WCH for example)...if they accept it, there won't be a chance to replace her. I think the best choice for them is to accept only one quota, and then use the Asian Ch. next year as a selection event (and in case no Japanese gets the quota there, they'll use the one reserved to the host)