Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

[phelps 7,706]

Women's Lead

Climbers qualified for the Final

 

Laura Rogora

Mei Kotake

Hannah Schubert

Akiyo Noguchi

Mia Krampl

Ashima Shiraishi

Anak Verhoeven

Kim Ja In

Jessica Pilz

Janja Garnbret

[Gianlu33 4,607]

57 minuti fa, phelps ha scritto:

Women's Lead

Climbers qualified for the Final

 

Laura Rogora

Mei Kotake

Hannah Schubert

Akiyo Noguchi

Mia Krampl

Ashima Shiraishi

Anak Verhoeven

Kim Ja In

Jessica Pilz

Janja Garnbret

Why 10 qualified and not 8? 

[phelps 7,706]

52 minuti fa, Gianlu33 ha scritto:

Why 10 qualified and not 8? 

 

because Rogora, Schubert and the 2 Japanese girls were all tied for 7th place (44+ their score) and, since the qualification event was held in 2 separate heats, they couldn't go to countback from the qualification round...

so, the jury decided that 10 was still a reasonable number of climbers (not impacting too much the lenght of the TV broadcast) and enlarged the field of starters of the final, rather than going through a complicated (and unfair) tie-breaker...

Edited September 8, 2018 by phelps

[Quasit 865]

That route looks very difficult...

 

Garnbret should have won, what time she wasted.

Edited September 8, 2018 by Quasit

[phelps 7,706]

what a final! the route looked indeed too difficult (actually, I think it was definitely too difficult...the semifinal heat was way more exciting also for the 3rd through mid-ranking positions), but then Jessica and Janja showed us that no route is really too difficult...

their battle for the Gold medal is probably the highlight of the entire championship, even if this is only the first competition to be completed...

I'm happy for Jessica, who is now World Champion...and she won in front of the home crowd...but a the same time I'm so sad for Janja, who's my favourite climber and lost just because of those *** 12 seconds (and frankly it's really painful to lose the Gold medal at the tie-breaker after reaching the top of the wall with all the pressure she had on her shoulders once Pilz completed her climb in that way)...

pity also for "our" teenage sensation, Laura Rogora, who couldn't repeat herself in the final, after an amazing semifinal climb...but you can't buy experience at the supermarket...

 

and Tomorrow, it's time for the men to earn their honors in the Lead event...I just can't wait (c'mon, Stefano!)...

 

Women's Lead

 

Gold: Jessica Pilz

Silver: Janja Garnbret

Bronze: Kim Ja In

 

Full Competition Results here:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=2

Edited September 8, 2018 by phelps

[Quasit 865]

I'm not a regular watcher of this sport yet but that semifinal route looks even more ridiculous than the women's one last night.

Ghisolfi not even making the final, Ondra barely in...

[phelps 7,706]

29 minuti fa, Quasit ha scritto:

I'm not a regular watcher of this sport yet but that semifinal route looks even more ridiculous than the women's one last night.

Ghisolfi not even making the final, Ondra barely in...

 

yeah, they are definitely going too much further...

I wonder what's gonna happen tonight?

meh...

they're just killing the show...difficult doesn't mean impossible...

not having a single "Top" in the semifinal round, normally is just unthinkable...

 

by the way, thanks to this kind of routes, we're gonna have a 10-man final also in the men's division...

 

Men's Lead, climbers qualified to the Final

 

Tomoaki Takata
Adam Ondra
Sascha Lehmann

Jakub Konecny

Kai Harada

Marcello Bombardi

Meichi Narasaki

Alexander Megos

Jakob Schubert

Domen Skofic

 

 

[phelps 7,706]

despite the very diffcult and unusual route of the semifinal round, in any case we have almost all the favourites qualified for the final act...

in fact, only Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) are the really big names eliminated earlier today (and we should also add Romain Desgranges, FRA, who went already out in the qualifications 2 days ago)...

 

[phelps 7,706]

Men's Lead

 

Gold: Jakob Schubert

Silver: Adam Ondra

Bronze: Alexander Megos

 

Full Competition Results here:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=1

[phelps 7,706]

as expected, the final was ruined by a damn crazy (basically impossible) route...

 

OK...this is the World Championship and things must be complicated, but this was definitely too much also for this kind of event...

when nobody can even get close to the Top of the wall, it's obvious that the technical commission made a big mistake in building the route...

 

having said that, we still have a "dream" podium, with 3 of the 4/5 main pre-competition favourites...so, at least we can't say that we had a "roulette" final, but a competition where the best climbers did show why they are the best (climbers)...

 

and also tonight we had to use a tie-breaker to decide the 2018 world champion, but this time, since Schubert and Ondra were not tied in the semifinals, we only went back to the "classic" countback (the best in the previous round has the advantage), without the need to go further and use the cruel climbing time tie-breaker (as t happened yesterday in the women's final)...

 

and finally it was Austria once again to come up with the top honor, making the host the absolute dominator of the Lead competitions thanks to both Gold Medals in this particular disciplines...

 

tomorrow's rest day...from Tuesday, the Boulder competitions will be on stage...and despite Austria still have some chances, I expect the music to change drastically...

 

p.s. just another thing about the lead finals (and semis)...call me a conservative, but I don't think that all that disco music and strobo lights in the arena during the climbs did help the athletes through their efforts...