Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2023

[Olympian1010 8,230]

1 hour ago, De_Gambassi said:

Very-minimal-educated-opinion.

 

Speed Climbing is unbelievable the first time you watch it, but it gets old very fast and not that exciting really. I would like they come up with a new route each time (witch climbers having a few days/weeks prior to the competition to figure it out the fastest way to climb it)

 

Edit: maybe a longer route also if that's possible.

I could be wrong, but I believe that is the idea of the speed-classic discipline. You don’t see too many of those comps anymore unfortunately…

 

You’re opinion is shared by a lot of climbers too. Personally, I find speed entertaining enough now (though maybe too random). However, I think that format would probably be interesting as well (and maybe in the traditional spirit of sport climbing).

Edited August 10, 2023 by Olympian1010

[phelps 8,286]

6 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said:

I could be wrong, but I believe that is the idea of the speed-classic discipline. You don’t see too many of those comps anymore unfortunately…

 

You’re opinion is shared by a lot of climbers too. Personally, I find speed entertaining enough now (though maybe too random). However, I think that format would probably be interesting as well (and maybe in the traditional spirit of sport climbing).

the traditional spirit of sport climbing is represented only and exclusively by the lead event 

 

anything else, it's just been created to help the development and the spreading of the discipline outside its traditional (small) world and to try and catch some media coverage (not to mention the abominable combined event, born on the sole aim to earn the Olympic status despite being far from any existing concept in sport climbing until 4/5 years ago)

 

p.s. however, I agree in large part with the idea expressed by our friend @De_Gambassi

[Olympian1010 8,230]

31 minutes ago, phelps said:

the traditional spirit of sport climbing is represented only and exclusively by the lead event 

I think many climbers would consider bouldering in that spirit as well. It might not be as historically prestigious or prized as lead/big route climbing, but it’s definitely come into its own in the last decade. Even your traditionalist climbers like Ondra or Honnold train bouldering for fun or improvement on the big climbs.

[Griff88 2,008]

6 hours ago, Gianlu33 said:

Interesting that Indonesia, despite they dominated since some years, never won a medal at WCh until now.. That's the 1st Indonesian medal ever.

Yeah we often do not participate or send minimum effort teams to WCh

 

That’s why the media is always clueless, every other World Cup Series the mainstream media headlines will be something like: “INDONESIAN SPEED CLIMBERS SWEEPS THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS” and the poor readers start to “correct” people who said that World Cups are just a circuit tournament

Edited August 11, 2023 by Griff88

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Women's combined final is on course, with 3 quotas to award. Some boulders are really nice.

[Gianlu33 5,276]

After the boulder:

1. Garnbret 84.9
2. Raboutou 69.8
3. Pilz 69
4. Bertone 54.7
5. Nonaka 54.4
6. Mori 4.5
7. Sanders 24.6
8. Kim 14.1

 

Lead starts now. 

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Amazing lead for Kim  But honestly I don't think that this will be enough

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Good climb for Pilz, that should be pass at 90%

[Gianlu33 5,276]

Now it's official, 1st olympic quota goes to Pilz. Still two quotas to assign.

[Josh 11,528]

Quota for  Ai Mori!