until Sport Climbing became part of the Olympic schedule, the "combined event" didn't exist and it was quite an oddity to see the same people being at the top of both boulder and lead, even if boulder was basically invented as a form of (indoor) training for the lead specialists
in the last 10 years, with this "combined event" included in the Olympic program, many things have changed and of course the strongest specialists in both disciplines started to develop also the skills required by "the other one" to be competitive in the new event
actually, also the design of the boulder and lead walls has changed to allow all the top athletes to become better all-arounders than true specialists of a single event
but, despite that, there are still a very good number of those and if you're not Janja Garnbret, it's very difficult to be a medal candidate in both disciplines
most likely, with boulder and lead being now separated also at the Olympics, I hope everything will be back to basics, with boulder and lead walls being way more complicated for the non-specialists, requiring different skills (and physical characteristics) that can't easily match one with the others
it's the configuration of the building: there are a lot of outdoor spaces (more than usual), with the wind gusts going left and right, which is very tricky for the shooters (especially those used to different conditions where the scores are normally higher)
Absolutely, there was at first all-around with 3 disciplines, where lead/boulder specialists were favorites, then it was replaced by Lead+Boulder combined, where lead specialists was favorites because of greater gaps that can be achieved in lead climbing, and now these are separate disciplines where it depends only on what each climber could do best (or who is Janja Garnbret who will win 2 golds)
It was always going to be difficult for IOC to get new events in & stick to their 10,500 limit. I wish they could have increased it to 12,000 but they did find a way out by limiting the quota to core sports ONLY. I see that as a very positive & well thought out by both LOC & IOC.
I have mixed feelings on these changes but overall can’t complain much as it could have been worse.
The good part:
1. Compound Archery will be a great addition to the programme albeit only in mixed team event. Sadly this means losing quotas from Recurve, which will make the qualification process more challenging.
2. TT events : Getting the doubles event is an excellent call plus we have a team event too . The men’s & women’s team events were so predictable. This 3 format will throw up opportunities & surprises . Most importantly it will add to the viewing experience as matches are expected to be tighter & shorter.
3. Basketball 3x3 is a growing sport & increasing the number of teams is certainly the right call. It was expected.
4. Sport climbing : The programme looks complete now & again on expected lines.
The OK part:
1. Boxing : Keeping the total quota places same & increasing a single weight class in women’s event was expected.
2. Additional swimming events : Considering the hosts for the next two olympics are swimming dominant nations. This was expected.
3. Mixed Golf : This is a good idea & will be an intresting event to watch.
The Bad part:
1. Football : if you are so worried about maintaining the quota limit why not just make both events a 12 team one. I can understand the reduction in men’s but increase the women’s team event.
2. Athletics : This change doesn’t make much sense. Perhaps an additional 🥇 for . Why would you take away a race walking event only to replace it with another track event.
3. Tennis : I don’t like this idea of mixed team , XD was a better format for me.
4. Gymnastics: A mixed team event will not add anything to the programme. Perhaps again a lot to do with the LOC than FIG or IOC.
Traitor is a nice way to describe him, really the only explanation for his actions (because I'm going to naively believe he is not actually dumb) is that he is a foreign agent and not even really hiding it, at all
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