Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

[Dunadan 1,103]

Provisional results of the combined event ( boulder not finished yet ):

https://wettkampf.austriaclimbing.com/kvoe/rk_ergebnis.php?idklasse=11&idbewerb=2107&rgsort=1

 

Edited September 13, 2018 by Dunadan

[phelps 7,664]

54 minuti fa, heywoodu ha scritto:

Commentator here was wondering about that: can athletes choose their own music, or ask for no music at all? That should be the case if you ask me..

 

no, it's part of the show...the organizers are responsible for that (with permission given by the IFSC, of course) and the climbers can't do anything about it...

however, in normal conditions there's a softer atmosphere (also because most competitions are held outdoor)...that show is something you find only at the world champs or in exhibition events (and if I can understand that in the not-so-important competitions, I think it shouldn't happen at the most important event of the 2-year span...

[phelps 7,664]

5 ore fa, MHSN ha scritto:

Alipour finished first in the qualification. which is a bit surprising to me i was expecting him to be a bit out of shape right after the Asian Games. even though it still means nothing as we know how things work in knockout round. everything is possible. but at least being the top seed gives you a bit of confidence.

 

but I really don't like the format for speed knockout rounds. they have to make it best of 3 or something like that. during the Asian Games (if I'm not wrong ) 3 out of 4 speed finals ended up with false start !! that's no fun for the natural audience .

 

I agree at 101%

[heywoodu 14,957]

1 minute ago, phelps said:

 

no, it's part of the show...the organizers are responsible for that (with permission given by the IFSC, of course) and the climbers can't do anything about it...

however, in normal conditions there's a softer atmosphere (also because most competitions are held outdoor)...that show is something you find only at the world champs or in exhibition events (and if I can understand that in the not-so-important competitions, I think it shouldn't happen at the most important event of the 2-year span...

Athletes should have the choice what they want to hear during their run  

[phelps 7,664]

17 minuti fa, Dunadan ha scritto:

Provisional results of the combined event ( boulder not finished yet ):

https://wettkampf.austriaclimbing.com/kvoe/rk_ergebnis.php?idklasse=11&idbewerb=2107&rgsort=1

 

 

they should find another way of calculating those scores...this is almost impossible to understand also for people who normally follow Sport Climbing...imagine the newcomers...

[Dunadan 1,103]

Just now, phelps said:

 

they should find another way of calculating those scores...this is almost impossible to understand also for people who normally follow Sport Climbing...imagine the newcomers...

it's just the multiplication (ranking in speed * ranking in lead * ranking in boulder), quite easy to understand in my opinion

[phelps 7,664]

by the way, great Speed competition, tonight...full of surprises, upsets and great efforts...

big winners of the day, surely Poland...they missed out on the medals in the men's divisions (where they had the defending champion, Marcin Dzienski), but they did make up for that with a totally dominant women's team (despite the shady absence of the Indonesian girls, who could have changed a lot the outcome of the final ranking)...

big losers of the day, instead, the Russians...they came here to sweep all the medals and they only go home with 2 modest Bronze medals...

and what a final in the men's event...it was so close...but Mawem just missed the touch on the final button...however, the tile goes to the strongest man in the world...so, no upset here (even if I'd would have liked to see the Indonesians at the startamong the men, too)...

no comment on the shameful mistakes of the Italian guys (and the boys at least made it through to the final bracket, meanwhile Dalla Brida wasted her chances alrready in the qualification round with our usual false start)...

 

[phelps 7,664]

4 minuti fa, Dunadan ha scritto:

it's just the multiplication (ranking in speed * ranking in lead * ranking in boulder), quite easy to understand in my opinion

 

it's easy to understand only the procedure...but why they should use multiplication of disciplines instead of addition it's a mistery...and it's totally unfair, it changes (and by much) the outcome of the entire competition (included the fact that they take the athletes not showing up in all 3 events from the single rankings, which causes also some more complications)...

I don't think this is a good system...but still, this is what they've chosen and we have to accept it...

[heywoodu 14,957]

I thought the combined event was done in the end instead of simply a matter of taking the results of the individual events  

[MHSN 3,613]

what a win for Alipour

 

this guy is very unlucky he deserves much more than this. his gold medal in Asian Games was the only gold medal of Iran in the Games nobody never saw his competition in Iran. (only gold medal of Iran in Palembang with much much less TV and media coverage) and right now nobody in Iran (except probably me and his family ) he is the world champion. and I think tomorrow some news websites will just mention it  this is tough sport. not a random martial arts sport with less than 6 competitors. being World Champion in this speed event is something .

 

his interview was also funny after the win, his translator was terrible he didn't say I'm injured right now, he said I was injured at the start of the season and this wasn't a good season for me because of that. he is now current World Champion, current Asian Games Champion, Current World Games champion and current Asian Championships gold medalist. there is nothing more for him to win since speed specialists have no chance in combined event.