Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019

[Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo 142]

Unofficial qualyfied for Combined semifinal:
Women
 

GARNBRET	SLO	1	1	23	23
NOGUCHI	JPN	2	5	34	340
COXSEY	GBR	3	17	41	2091
JAUBERT	FRA	37	60	1	2220
KRAMPL	SLO	17	2	69	2346
SEO	KOR	13	4	50	2600
ITO	JPN	7	14	27	2646
NONAKA	JPN	5	26	25	3250
KAZBEKOVA	UKR	4	16	53	3392
KALUCKA A.	POL	63	64	1	4032
MIROSLAW	POL	57	72	1	4104
SONG	CHN	65	66	1	4290
RAKOVEC	SLO	12	9	47	5076
MORI	JPN	31	3	60	5580
CHUDZIAK	POL	79	80	1	6320
YIP	CAN	7	38	29	7714
PILZ	AUT	33	6	43	8514
KURA	JPN	6	35	44	9240
LUKAN	SLO	21	7	65	9555
CHANOUDRIE	FRA	43	8	28	9632

 

Fist reserve Klinger (SUI)

 

MEN

 

NARASAKI T.	JPN	1	12	22	264
ONDRA	CZA	6	1	58	348
SHUBERT	AUT	2	3	59	354
FUJI	JPN	4	14	29	1624
NARASAKI M.	JPN	13	4	38	1976
HARADA	JPN	9	7	32	2016
MCCALL	CAN	14	5	37	2590
MEGOS	GER	25	2	75	3750
FOSSALI	ITA	61	70	1	4270
DOHI	JPN	5	29	39	5655
RUANA	USA	8	16	47	6016
FLOHE	GER	3	40	56	6720
KRIZ	CZE	96	81	2	15552
CHON	KOR	12	24	33	9504
HOJER	GER	11	33	35	12705
GHISOLFI	ITA	49	6	44	12936
KRUDER	SLO	10	28	50	14000
KHABULLIN	KAZ	41	52	7	14924
KIM H.	KOR	21	17	46	16422
COLEMAN	USA	17	30	34	17340

first out (reserve) Picolruaz (ITA)

 

[phelps 7,773]

and with this win, Fossali also makes it through to the top 10 of the Combined Ranking!

 

unbelievably, if my calculation is somehow close to the real situation, Italy have 3 guys among the top 20 in the Olympic discipline...

 

and also Jan Kriz is now within the 20 best combiners...

 

they should be the only 2 among today's top specialists to get a place in the Combined Semifinals on Monday...

[phelps 7,773]

Just now, Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo said:

Unofficial qualyfied for Combined semifinal:
Women
 

GARNBRET	SLO	1	1	23	23
NOGUCHI	JPN	2	5	34	340
COXSEY	GBR	3	17	41	2091
JAUBERT	FRA	37	60	1	2220
KRAMPL	SLO	17	2	69	2346
SEO	KOR	13	4	50	2600
ITO	JPN	7	14	27	2646
NONAKA	JPN	5	26	25	3250
KAZBEKOVA	UKR	4	16	53	3392
KALUCKA A.	POL	63	64	1	4032
MIROSLAW	POL	57	72	1	4104
SONG	CHN	65	66	1	4290
RAKOVEC	SLO	12	9	47	5076
MORI	JPN	31	3	60	5580
CHUDZIAK	POL	79	80	1	6320
YIP	CAN	7	38	29	7714
PILZ	AUT	33	6	43	8514
KURA	JPN	6	35	44	9240
LUKAN	SLO	21	7	65	9555
CHANOUDRIE	FRA	43	8	28	9632

 

Fist reserve Klinger (SUI)

 

MEN

 

NARASAKI T.	JPN	1	12	22	264
ONDRA	CZA	6	1	58	348
SHUBERT	AUT	2	3	59	354
FUJI	JPN	4	14	29	1624
NARASAKI M.	JPN	13	4	38	1976
HARADA	JPN	9	7	32	2016
MCCALL	CAN	14	5	37	2590
MEGOS	GER	25	2	75	3750
FOSSALI	ITA	61	70	1	4270
DOHI	JPN	5	29	39	5655
RUANA	USA	8	16	47	6016
FLOHE	GER	3	40	56	6720
KRIZ	CZE	96	81	2	15552
CHON	KOR	12	24	33	9504
HOJER	GER	11	33	35	12705
GHISOLFI	ITA	49	6	44	12936
KRUDER	SLO	10	28	50	14000
KHABULLIN	KAZ	41	52	7	14924
KIM H.	KOR	21	17	46	16422
COLEMAN	USA	17	30	34	17340

first out (reserve) Picolruaz (ITA)

 

 

noooo! Piccolruaz is not in!

[Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo 142]

Absolutely Unofficial. I don't know if there is a limit for NOC in semifinal.

 

[phelps 7,773]

1 hour ago, Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo said:

Absolutely Unofficial. I don't know if there is a limit for NOC in semifinal.

 

 

no, there's no limit (apart for the same max number any NOC can enter at the world championships)...

 

but some of the guys we counted in our previews were not eligible, as they only competed as individual quota in the various disciplines...

 

at the same time, we also know that only max 2 climbers per NOC can qualify to the Olympic Games, which means that the Combined competition in the next 4 days will be a cruel internal selection for those Nations with more than 2 competitive athletes...remember, the Olympic Qualification is by name, the NOCs don't have any space of manouvre once we get the final ranking of this tournament...

 

also to be remembered:

 

-If an allocated quota place is not confirmed by the NOC by the confirmation of quota place deadline or is declined by the NOC, the quota place will be reallocated to the next best-ranked athlete, not yet qualified, at the respective event where the quota place was obtained

 

-Unused Host Country Place(s) will be reallocated to the next highest placed athlete, not yet qualified, in the Combined World Championships 2019 in Tokyo, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC

Edited August 17, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 7,773]

by the way, here we have the Official Start Lists of the Combined Event at the 2019 World Championship...

 

Women's Combined Qualification Start List

 

1, Vita Lukan
2, Brooke Raboutou
3, Petra Klingler
4, Jessica Pilz
5, Julia Chanourdie
6, Nanako Kura
7, Alannah Yip
8, Anouck Jaubert
9, Ai Mori
10, Lucka Rakovec
11, Niu Di
12, Aleksandra Miroslaw
13, Ievgeniia Kazbekova
14, Seo Chae Hyun
15, Mia Krampl
16, Miho Nonaka
17, Futaba Ito
18, Shauna Coxsey
19, Akiyo Noguchi
20, Janja Garnbret

 

Men's Combined Qualification Start List

1, Michael Piccolruaz
2, Mickael Mawem
3, Nathaniel Coleman
4, Jernej Kruder
5, Stefano Ghisolfi
6, Jan Hojer
7, Rishat Khaibullin
8, Chon Jong Won
9, Yannick Flohé
10, Meichi Narasaki
11, Rudolph Ruana
12, Keita Dohi
13, Ludovico Fossali
14, Alexander Megos
15, Sean McColl
16, Kai Harada
17, Kokoro Fujii
18, Jakob Schubert
19, Adam Ondra
20, Tomoa Narasaki

[phelps 7,773]

a few quick notes...

 

among the women, Japan have 5 girls fighting for 2 spots (and even if only 1 Japanese climber makes it to the top 7, they also have an already secured Host Country Quota Place, which means that in case 2 Japanes girls make it to the top 7 -very much a chance- also the next best non-JPN climber should qualify)...

 

and the only other Nation having an internal fight together with the global challenge, is Slovenia, with 4 girls among the starters...

 

the women's quali is scheduled for tomorrow...

 

among the men, the Jaopanese situation is exactly the same as among the women (5 guys at the start, 1 place already secured as the Host Nation of the OG, but highly likely going to qualify 2 men in the top 7, thus making available an additional spot for the next best non-JPN climber on Monday)...

 

meanwhile the Nations adding internal competition to the global chase for the medals are Germany and Italy, even if I highly doubt that they are going to get more than 1 qualified climber (if ever they get 1, especially Italy)...

[phelps 7,773]

my picks...Tomoa Narasaki + 2 more guys from JPN and Megos/Schubert/Ondra will make the men's final...and the 8 men going to Tokyo will be: T.Narasaki, a 2nd Japanese guy, the other 3 named finalists, McColl, Chon and the lkast one is too close to call (the winner of the speed section could be the main candidate)...

 

in the girls' division, Garnbret and the Japanese armada are my picks for the final (Seo could be the only one sneaking in through the favourites)...and for the OQ frankly I don't have a clue other than the SLO/KOR/2x JPN I already named as the overall favourites to win the world medals...maybe Coxsey has a slight advantage over the rest of the field, but I wouldn't bet on her nor against any other girl at this point...

[Col_Frost 179]

I think there's a mistake in men's combined start list.  Piccolruaz has 9728 points and that's correct, but  Kim Hanwool should have 9520 and be in front of him and in semifinal.

 

It's only for fun but if we assume that competitors will make the same results as in regular competition than finals and olympic quotas will look like this (for speed I included qualification results because I think that they are more meaningful than finals, but it didn't make bigger difference).

 

Men's OQ:

1.  Narasaki

2.  Ondra

3.  Schubert

4.  Fossali

5.  McColl

6.  Megos

7.  Khaibullin

 

Women's OQ:

1.  Garnbret

2.  Noguchi

3.  Miroslaw

4.  Coxsey

5.  Krampl

6.  Jaubert

7.  Seo

 

Men's podium:

1.  Narasaki

2.  Ondra

3.  Schubert

 

Women's podium:

 

1.  Garnbret

2.  Noguchi

3.  Miroslaw

[Dunadan 1,103]

Any link to the official combined standings please?