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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019


phelps
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Unofficial qualyfied for Combined semifinal:
Women
 


 
GARNBRET SLO 1 1 23 23
NOGUCHI JPN 2 5 34 340
COXSEY GBR 3 17 41 2091
JAUBERT FRA 37 60 1 2220
KRAMPL SLO 17 2 69 2346
SEO KOR 13 4 50 2600
ITO JPN 7 14 27 2646
NONAKA JPN 5 26 25 3250
KAZBEKOVA UKR 4 16 53 3392
KALUCKA A. POL 63 64 1 4032
MIROSLAW POL 57 72 1 4104
SONG CHN 65 66 1 4290
RAKOVEC SLO 12 9 47 5076
MORI JPN 31 3 60 5580
CHUDZIAK POL 79 80 1 6320
YIP CAN 7 38 29 7714
PILZ AUT 33 6 43 8514
KURA JPN 6 35 44 9240
LUKAN SLO 21 7 65 9555
CHANOUDRIE FRA 43 8 28 9632

 

Fist reserve Klinger (SUI)

 

MEN

 

NARASAKI T. JPN 1 12 22 264
ONDRA CZA 6 1 58 348
SHUBERT AUT 2 3 59 354
FUJI JPN 4 14 29 1624
NARASAKI M. JPN 13 4 38 1976
HARADA JPN 9 7 32 2016
MCCALL CAN 14 5 37 2590
MEGOS GER 25 2 75 3750
FOSSALI ITA 61 70 1 4270
DOHI JPN 5 29 39 5655
RUANA USA 8 16 47 6016
FLOHE GER 3 40 56 6720
KRIZ CZE 96 81 2 15552
CHON KOR 12 24 33 9504
HOJER GER 11 33 35 12705
GHISOLFI ITA 49 6 44 12936
KRUDER SLO 10 28 50 14000
KHABULLIN KAZ 41 52 7 14924
KIM H. KOR 21 17 46 16422
COLEMAN USA 17 30 34 17340
first out (reserve) Picolruaz (ITA)

 

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and with this win, Fossali also makes it through to the top 10 of the Combined Ranking! :yikes:

 

unbelievably, if my calculation is somehow close to the real situation, Italy have 3 guys among the top 20 in the Olympic discipline...:hyper:

 

and also Jan Kriz is now within the 20 best combiners...

 

they should be the only 2 among today's top specialists to get a place in the Combined Semifinals on Monday...

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Just now, Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo said:

Unofficial qualyfied for Combined semifinal:
Women
 



 
GARNBRET SLO 1 1 23 23
NOGUCHI JPN 2 5 34 340
COXSEY GBR 3 17 41 2091
JAUBERT FRA 37 60 1 2220
KRAMPL SLO 17 2 69 2346
SEO KOR 13 4 50 2600
ITO JPN 7 14 27 2646
NONAKA JPN 5 26 25 3250
KAZBEKOVA UKR 4 16 53 3392
KALUCKA A. POL 63 64 1 4032
MIROSLAW POL 57 72 1 4104
SONG CHN 65 66 1 4290
RAKOVEC SLO 12 9 47 5076
MORI JPN 31 3 60 5580
CHUDZIAK POL 79 80 1 6320
YIP CAN 7 38 29 7714
PILZ AUT 33 6 43 8514
KURA JPN 6 35 44 9240
LUKAN SLO 21 7 65 9555
CHANOUDRIE FRA 43 8 28 9632

 

Fist reserve Klinger (SUI)

 

MEN

 

NARASAKI T. JPN 1 12 22 264
ONDRA CZA 6 1 58 348
SHUBERT AUT 2 3 59 354
FUJI JPN 4 14 29 1624
NARASAKI M. JPN 13 4 38 1976
HARADA JPN 9 7 32 2016
MCCALL CAN 14 5 37 2590
MEGOS GER 25 2 75 3750
FOSSALI ITA 61 70 1 4270
DOHI JPN 5 29 39 5655
RUANA USA 8 16 47 6016
FLOHE GER 3 40 56 6720
KRIZ CZE 96 81 2 15552
CHON KOR 12 24 33 9504
HOJER GER 11 33 35 12705
GHISOLFI ITA 49 6 44 12936
KRUDER SLO 10 28 50 14000
KHABULLIN KAZ 41 52 7 14924
KIM H. KOR 21 17 46 16422
COLEMAN USA 17 30 34 17340

first out (reserve) Picolruaz (ITA)

 

 

noooo! Piccolruaz is not in! :(

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1 hour ago, Giovanni Gianni Cattaneo said:

Absolutely Unofficial. I don't know if there is a limit for NOC in semifinal.

 

 

no, there's no limit (apart for the same max number any NOC can enter at the world championships)...

 

but some of the guys we counted in our previews were not eligible, as they only competed as individual quota in the various disciplines...

 

at the same time, we also know that only max 2 climbers per NOC can qualify to the Olympic Games, which means that the Combined competition in the next 4 days will be a cruel internal selection for those Nations with more than 2 competitive athletes...remember, the Olympic Qualification is by name, the NOCs don't have any space of manouvre once we get the final ranking of this tournament...

 

also to be remembered:

 

-If an allocated quota place is not confirmed by the NOC by the confirmation of quota place deadline or is declined by the NOC, the quota place will be reallocated to the next best-ranked athlete, not yet qualified, at the respective event where the quota place was obtained

 

-Unused Host Country Place(s) will be reallocated to the next highest placed athlete, not yet qualified, in the Combined World Championships 2019 in Tokyo, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC

Edited by phelps
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by the way, here we have the Official Start Lists of the Combined Event at the 2019 World Championship...

 

Women's Combined Qualification Start List

 

1, :SLO Vita Lukan
2, :USA Brooke Raboutou
3, :SUI Petra Klingler
4, :AUT Jessica Pilz
5, :FRA Julia Chanourdie
6, :JPN Nanako Kura
7, :CAN Alannah Yip
8, :FRA Anouck Jaubert
9, :JPN Ai Mori
10, :SLO Lucka Rakovec
11, :CHN Niu Di
12, :POL Aleksandra Miroslaw
13, :UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova
14, :KOR Seo Chae Hyun
15, :SLO Mia Krampl
16, :JPN Miho Nonaka
17, :JPN Futaba Ito
18, :GBR Shauna Coxsey
19, :JPN Akiyo Noguchi
20, :SLO Janja Garnbret

 

Men's Combined Qualification Start List

1, :ITA Michael Piccolruaz
2, :FRA Mickael Mawem
3, :USA Nathaniel Coleman
4, :SLO Jernej Kruder
5, :ITA Stefano Ghisolfi
6, :GER Jan Hojer
7, :KAZ Rishat Khaibullin
8, :KOR Chon Jong Won
9, :GER Yannick Flohé
10, :JPN Meichi Narasaki
11, :USA Rudolph Ruana
12, :JPN Keita Dohi
13, :ITA Ludovico Fossali
14, :GER Alexander Megos
15, :CAN Sean McColl
16, :JPN Kai Harada
17, :JPN Kokoro Fujii
18, :AUT Jakob Schubert
19, :CZE Adam Ondra
20, :JPN Tomoa Narasaki

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a few quick notes...

 

among the women, Japan have 5 girls fighting for 2 spots (and even if only 1 Japanese climber makes it to the top 7, they also have an already secured Host Country Quota Place, which means that in case 2 Japanes girls make it to the top 7 -very much a chance- also the next best non-JPN climber should qualify)...

 

and the only other Nation having an internal fight together with the global challenge, is Slovenia, with 4 girls among the starters...

 

the women's quali is scheduled for tomorrow...

 

among the men, the Jaopanese situation is exactly the same as among the women (5 guys at the start, 1 place already secured as the Host Nation of the OG, but highly likely going to qualify 2 men in the top 7, thus making available an additional spot for the next best non-JPN climber on Monday)...

 

meanwhile the Nations adding internal competition to the global chase for the medals are Germany and Italy, even if I highly doubt that they are going to get more than 1 qualified climber (if ever they get 1, especially Italy)...

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my picks...Tomoa Narasaki + 2 more guys from JPN and Megos/Schubert/Ondra will make the men's final...and the 8 men going to Tokyo will be: T.Narasaki, a 2nd Japanese guy, the other 3 named finalists, McColl, Chon and the lkast one is too close to call (the winner of the speed section could be the main candidate)...

 

in the girls' division, Garnbret and the Japanese armada are my picks for the final (Seo could be the only one sneaking in through the favourites)...and for the OQ frankly I don't have a clue other than the SLO/KOR/2x JPN I already named as the overall favourites to win the world medals...maybe Coxsey has a slight advantage over the rest of the field, but I wouldn't bet on her nor against any other girl at this point...

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I think there's a mistake in men's combined start list. :ITA Piccolruaz has 9728 points and that's correct, but :KOR Kim Hanwool should have 9520 and be in front of him and in semifinal.

 

It's only for fun but if we assume that competitors will make the same results as in regular competition than finals and olympic quotas will look like this (for speed I included qualification results because I think that they are more meaningful than finals, but it didn't make bigger difference).

 

Men's OQ:

1. :JPN Narasaki

2. :CZE Ondra

3. :AUT Schubert

4. :ITA Fossali

5. :CAN McColl

6. :GER Megos

7. :KAZ Khaibullin

 

Women's OQ:

1. :SLO Garnbret

2. :JPN Noguchi

3. :POL Miroslaw

4. :GBR Coxsey

5. :SLO Krampl

6. :FRA Jaubert

7. :KOR Seo

 

Men's podium:

1. :JPN Narasaki

2. :CZE Ondra

3. :AUT Schubert

 

Women's podium:

 

1. :SLO Garnbret

2. :JPN Noguchi

3. :POL Miroslaw

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