Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2018

[heywoodu 16,460]

1 minute ago, phelps said:

 

naaa...speed specialists are a world on their own...

no one of them is really competitive in Boulder and/or Lead (meanwhile those 2 disciplines have a lot of participants who can win in both of them)...

that's why the Olympic Combined event technically doesn't make any sense...

I mostly meant it'd be fun to see someone named Boldyrev do the boulder event  

[phelps 8,695]

Tonight at 19.30 CET (men) and 21 CET (women) the Finals of the Briançon World Cup stage (Lead)...

 

Live free here:

 

[phelps 8,695]

IFSC World Cup, Stage #9 (Briançon, FRA)

 

Women's Lead

 

1st, Janja Garnbret (SLO)

2nd, Jessica Pilz (AUT)

3rd, Anak Verhoeven (BEL)

 

Men's Lead

 

1st, Alexander Megos (GER)

2nd, Romain Desgranges (FRA)

3rd, Domen Skofic (SLO)

Edited July 21, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

only 5th place for Ghisolfi tonight...

well deserved win for Megos...

technically, overall not the best competition of the season, since nobody did reach the top...

 

now the women's final is underway...with 4 out of 8 starters coming from Slovenia...

[phelps 8,695]

and Janja strikes again! this woman is just unbelievable, unstoppable...

Edited July 21, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

Italy, and in particular the Sport Climbing "Mecca" Arco di Trento is the location for the 10th stage of this year's World Cup...

 

Lead and Speed are the disciplines scheduled to be contested in this weekend...

 

after yesterday's qualifications and this morning's semifinals, today in the late afternoon and tonight the big finals will be on stage...

 

here you can watch the speed finals @ 6 p.m. CET

 

meanwhile here you can follow the lead finals, starting with the women @ 7.45 p.m. CET

 

[phelps 8,695]

in the Speed discipline, Anouck Joubert has been the fastest in the women's qualifying climb ahead of Iuliia Kaplina...

among the top 16 there are 5 girls from Poland, 4 from Russia, 3 from France and 1 each from Italy, USA, Ecuador and Austria

 

in the men's Speed qualifications, Dmitrii Timofeev just edged out Reza Alipoushenazandifar...

meanwhile in the top 16 we have 6 Russians, 3 Italians, 2 Ukranians and 1 man each from USA, France, Czech Republic, Poland and of course Iran...

 

unfortunately there were no Indonesians at the start (both the men and women's classes), since they are focusing mainly on their Home Asian Games...

 

the Lead finalists, instead, are:

 

women's Lead

Jania Garnbret

Jessica Pilz

Christine Schranz

Claire Buhrfeind

Anak Verhoeven

Manon Hily

Ievgeniia Kazbekova

Helene Janicot

 

of course here a new chpter of the great challenge between Garnbret and Pilz is expected...any different outcome for Gold and Silver would be a huge surprise (actually, good half of the finalists are already surprisingly there)...

 

men's Lead

Sascha Lehmann

Adam Ondra

Jakob Schubert

Domen Skofic

Shuta Tanaka

Stefano Ghisolfi

Alberto Ginès Lopez

Min Hyun Bin

 

here we have definitely more guys aiming for the final win, from local hero Stefano Ghisolfi to "podium subscribers" like Schubert and Skofic...but my absolute favourite is Adam Ondra, finally back to world cup action after his great "natural" climbs outside the competitions...

surprisingly out in the earlier stages the Frenchman Romain Desgranges and the German Alexander Megos, multiple time medallists (and even winners) in the previous world cup rounds...

[phelps 8,695]

IFSC World Cup, Stage #10 (Arco Di Trento, ITA)

 

Women's Lead

 

1st, Janja Garnbret (SLO)

2nd, Jessica Pilz (AUT)

3rd, Anak Verhoeven (BEL)

 

Men's Lead

 

1st, Jakob Schubert (AUT)

2nd, Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)

3rd, Domen Skofic (SLO)

 

Women's Speed

 

1st, Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)

2nd, Mariia Krasavina (RUS)

3rd, Anouck Joubert (FRA)

 

Men's Speed

 

1st, Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

2nd, Aleksandr Shilov (RUS)

3rd, Reza Alipourshenazandifar (IRI)

Edited July 29, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

Janja does it again! what a woman...

 

meanwhile in the speed races, it's an Eastern European show, with a Russian double among the girls and the second win in a row for the man from Ukraine, Boldyrev...

[phelps 8,695]

lead finals were contested in difficult conditions, after heavy rain...so, technically it wasn't a great competition, with almost all the climbers falling at the only really complicated passage...

however, we still have the best specialists at the top of the rankings...so, we can't say that the event was completely turned around by the unfavourable weather...

pity for Ondra, who just missed out on the podium by a really small margin at his 1st world cup event of the season...

 

now it's time for the World Cup to take a short break because of the Youth World Championships in Moscow in the next weeks, it will be back just after mid-August with the Munich stage (Boulder only), which will be the last one before the Senior Worlds (in Innsbruck in the first half of September)...