Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year.
Nearly perfect competition for with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.
And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou. The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.
I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.
Lots of interesting outcomes from this final. After two previous rounds of difficult low scoring lead the final sees 3 athletes touch the top hold while the highest boulder score accounts for only 2/4 tops.
That lead round resulted in Lee Dohyun to take the 50 from Shanghai, putting the South Korean inches from an Olympic quota. Alberto Ginés-Lopez shows us why he’s a rightful Olympic champion with a perfect lead to get silver at the comp. An end to his best performance in the sport since his Tokyo gold medal. Adam Ondra ends up only able to use his high boulder score to get 3rd.
On the other hand, rough day for Sam Avezou with a very low boulder score and a complete flop on lead, falling before getting to the first scored hold. Still, 8th is not a bad rank in the tight race for France’s two quotas.
Really is the battle of teammates on the women’s side. , , , all have close competition between their top 2 with each team only able to send one more athlete. Makes top 20 the mark to aim for, because at least 4 in the top 20 (if things stand after lead) won’t go to the Olympics.
Not as much of a problem on the men’s side, only has a completion for the last quota of the country. could be fierce too with only 2 out of 3 (4 if Mawem makes a comeback) with a slot.
For those countries it could come down to the final lead wall in Budapest while the rest of the field is decided at Budapest qualifying,
Speed Climbing is going to be the breakout event in Paris. The storylines between the ascendent Americans Sam Watson and Emma Hunt, a strong Chinese team lead by Deng Lijuan, Zurrloni, Mawem, both Kaluckas, and the Indonesian team all clashing in an Olympic bracket is simply going to be must watch.
the events taking place in Budapest and Shanghai do not directly qualify for Paris?is it just for the ranking as for bmx freestyle and breaking)?
It is a direct qualification based on scores from the two events. Scores are just based on standing in each event. The ranking was used to decide qualification to the OQS (along with some extra slots for continental leaders, host leaders, and universality)
Interesting to see how many new climbers reached the final for the women. If young talent starts to appear more this year there could be some favorites that miss the Olympics.
Brooke Raboutou: 83.8/57.1/140.9 (50 pts)
Seo Chaehyun: 54.2/80.1/134.3 (45 pts)
Erin McNeice: 59.7/68.1/127.8 (41 pts)
Miho Nonaka: 59.6/68.1/127.7 (38 pts)
Ievgeniia Kazbekova: 59.1/48.1/107.2 (35 pts)
Luo Zhilu: 59.7/39.1/98.8 (34 pts)
Zélia Avezou: 39.4/57.1/96.5 (33 pts)
Alberto Ginés-Lopez - 24.5/100/124.5 (45 pts)
Adam Ondra - 64.0/60.1/124.1 (41 pts)
Sascha Lehmann - 14.3/96.1/110.4 (36 pts)
Hannes van Duysen -34.5/60.1/94.6 (35 pts)
Camila Moroni - 99.6/36.1/136.7
Lucija Tarkus - 79.5/39.1/118.6
Lucia Dorffel - 63.7/28.1/91.8
Franziska Sterrer - 69.0/20.0/89.0
Posted
Biggest surprise is Erin Mcniece
getting the 3rd position, this is her highest ranking in any competition but with 5th in both boulder and lead at the world cup season opener (also in China) she might just be peaking in the right year.
with a men's win and women's second, should be a strong team with a chance for a medal.
Nearly perfect competition for
And, oh my god, Brooke Raboutou.
The grit she presented on Boulder 2 and in the final moments of her lead is what got her this win. That's what you want to see from an olympian. She was 4th in the world championships and 2nd in the PanAm, twice mere points away from a quota, so no surprise she leads this competition. She's basically qualified if she gets top 20 in Budapest.
I just got tickets for the women's lead qualification in Paris (and men's speed finals) and based on what happened in Shanghai that should be one of the best tickets at the games. So hyped.
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