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Sport Climbing at the Summer Olympic Games 2020


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  On 8/6/2021 at 8:07 PM, intoronto said:

Indonesia will likely win the gold in Paris... I speed

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It's not about gold, Miroslaw would actually stand a chance to win any medal in Paris. Here in Tokyo even Polish TV didn't hype her for a medal despite the WR because everyone knew she would finish 8th in lead & boulder and hence miss out. You don't put Usain Bolt in 10,000 race and expect him to win a medal. I really hope this unfair combined gets canned in Paris and they will split the events like in World Games.

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  On 8/6/2021 at 8:18 PM, Monzanator said:

It's not about gold, Miroslaw would actually stand a chance to win any medal in Paris. Here in Tokyo even Polish TV didn't hype her for a medal despite the WR because everyone knew she would finish 8th in lead & boulder and hence miss out. You don't put Usain Bolt in 10,000 race and expect him to win a medal. I really hope this unfair combined gets canned in Paris and they will split the events like in World Games.

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Honestly, Miroslaw had a pretty decent chance at a medal here. All she needed to win a medal after that win in the speed was a zone hold in boulder or to beat Jaubert (another speed specialist) in the lead. It’s true the format didn’t favor her (or other speed climbers), but this wasn’t an impossible task for her. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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  On 8/6/2021 at 8:27 PM, Olympian1010 said:

Honestly, Miroslaw had a pretty decent chance at a medal here. All she needed to win a medal after that win in the speed was a zone hold in boulder or to beat Jaubert (another speed specialist) in the lead. It’s true the format didn’t favor her (or other speed climbers), but this wasn’t an impossible task for her. 

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This should be even playing field, not "not impossible task". This format doesn't give speed speciallists any chance to win a medal. Like I've said even Polish TV said she doesn't stand a chance after she was still placed second before the final part. This is way too predictable and kills any excitement. Everyone knew she will finish 8th in both non-speed parts and therefore outside of the medals. She finished fourth due to only being 8 women in the final. If there were 10 she'd be like 5th or 6th.

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  On 8/6/2021 at 9:03 PM, Monzanator said:

 

This should be even playing field, not "not impossible task". This format doesn't give speed speciallists any chance to win a medal. Like I've said even Polish TV said she doesn't stand a chance after she was still placed second before the final part. This is way too predictable and kills any excitement. Everyone knew she will finish 8th in both non-speed parts and therefore outside of the medals. She finished fourth due to only being 8 women in the final. If there were 10 she'd be like 5th or 6th.

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in paris there will be separate events for speed and combined (Bouldering & lead)

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  On 8/6/2021 at 9:18 PM, George_D said:

in paris there will be separate events for speed and combined (Bouldering & lead)

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And this is how it was supposed to be from the start. IOC crapped the bed as usual :coffee:

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