Sport Climbing IFSC American Championships 2020

[heywoodu 16,015]

5 minutes ago, dcro said:

 

No, mainly because Duffy apparently topped the wall in qualifying and Bailey was so slow. It looked like he was barely even trying.

 

Right. Yeah Duffy was impressive, I'm excited to see him in action next year. My favourites are mostly the speed climbers doing bouldering though, especially Iuliia Kaplina at the world OQT in the final (so already qualified for Tokyo) where she was just laughing at the boulders like 'the fuck am I supposed to do here?!'  

 

Reminds me of sprinters in speed skating doing longer distances, most notably Erben Wennemars doing a 10k (and a very respectable one!) at the Dutch and later world allround championships.

Edited March 29, 2020 by heywoodu

[Olympian1010 8,231]

4 hours ago, dcro said:

 

No, mainly because Duffy apparently topped the wall in qualifying and Bailey was so slow. It looked like he was barely even trying.

Duffy is also a two time youth-B lead champion, so the other journalists around me had already started writing their stories 

 

Duffy’s climb was a bit weaker than I expected it to be. He didn’t look comfortable, and he seemed to lack some confidence.

[heywoodu 16,015]

Good articles @Olympian1010

 

In terms of the actual content I only have one tiny remark, which is that the writing suggests Galla's Olympic dream was over after his lead attempt - that's not true.

 

Other than that, if I were an editor I'd only leave out some capital letters (like sometimes it's Boulder, other times it's boulder, or Boulders, or bouldering ) and, this one is a bit more important, I'd really try and check names if you're not certain about them. There was no Xander Waller competing, but there was a Zander Waller  

 

Only minor things, like I said, good articles.

[Olympian1010 8,231]

3 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Good articles @Olympian1010

 

In terms of the actual content I only have one tiny remark, which is that the writing suggests Galla's Olympic dream was over after his lead attempt - that's not true.

 

Other than that, if I were an editor I'd only leave out some capital letters (like sometimes it's Boulder, other times it's boulder, or Boulders, or bouldering ) and, this one is a bit more important, I'd really try and check names if you're not certain about them. There was no Xander Waller competing, but there was a Zander Waller  

 

Only minor things, like I said, good articles.

According to my scores, Galla was out after his lead attempt. I’m pretty confident in those, so maybe the on-screen graphics were off. I’ll have to check scores for future articles. However, the IFSC isn’t exactly blessed with speed when it comes to this sort of thing 

 

Yeah, I need to fix the Boulder thing. That’s on me. I still need to figure out some uniform style policies for Totallympics Media.

 

Now for the really odd stuff. I swear the entry lists said Xander Waller. I checked them multiple times throughout the day. I’m beginning to think I can’t trust IFSC published materials 

 

Thanks for the feedback. I’m glad these are good articles because both of them were written from 23:00-01:00 on the night the competition ended. I was fully living the journalistic life those days, and I loved every second of it. I thank y’all for giving me the opportunity. 

[heywoodu 16,015]

6 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said:

According to my scores, Galla was out after his lead attempt. I’m pretty confident in those, so maybe the on-screen graphics were off. I’ll have to check scores for future articles. However, the IFSC isn’t exactly blessed with speed when it comes to this sort of thing 

 

The on-screen graphics were correct (based on what one could actually see in terms of which holds they reached), and even if the hold numbers were maybe not exactly correct, the order of the athlete definitely was. With that, Waller, Galla and Duffy all still had a chance to win the competition when Duffy went onto the wall as last climber of the event.

 

I get that it's damn near impossible to really have a good sense of that when you're just standing there though. I think even Charlie Bosco doesn't bother keeping a little Excel sheet with him like I do when watching combined competitions, with which you can quickly try a few scenarios (especially with only 3-4 climbers left) and see who still has a chance  

 

Without a sheet like that, I'd be lost and just wait and see what happens.

Edited March 29, 2020 by heywoodu

[Olympian1010 8,231]

14 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

 

The on-screen graphics were correct (based on what one could actually see in terms of which holds they reached), and even if the hold numbers were maybe not exactly correct, the order of the athlete definitely was. With that, Waller, Galla and Duffy all still had a chance to win the competition when Duffy went onto the wall as last climber of the event.

 

I get that it's damn near impossible to really have a good sense of that when you're just standing there though. I think even Charlie Bosco doesn't bother keeping a little Excel sheet with him like I do when watching combined competitions, with which you can quickly try a few scenarios (especially with only 3-4 climbers left) and see who still has a chance  

 

Without a sheet like that, I'd be lost and just wait and see what happens.

That’s what I did on the first day . I wish they would have left the climbs up for people to try after. Apparently media are allowed (or were at least being let) to try the climbs a few hours before the competition. There was one boulder I think I could have given an honest shot.