Sport Climbing IFSC American Championships 2020

[heywoodu 16,182]

Commentator Charlie Bosco isn't really good at keeping track of the live scores, is he? I'm watching the women's final now and the first three women have finished the lead section. Aguado is at the moment on 14 points (2nd in speed, 7th in boulder, 1st in lead), Rojas on 16 points (1st, 8th, 2nd) and Bosco said "that means Rojas is now out of contention for the Olympic ticket".

 

That's just bullshit though! Only one climber needs to pass Aguado and then Rojas has passed her (Aguado would for example go from 14 to 28 by moving from 1st to 2nd in lead, while Rojas would move from 16 to 24 - and ahead of her - by moving from 2nd to 3rd in lead).

 

Is it really that impossible to simply have a little Excel sheet to follow along?

[heywoodu 16,182]

Oh my, the suspense during Yip's lead attempt! That, and the way it ended, is going on my list of favourite 2020 sports moments (it would have been there also if 2020 actually had more than 2,5 months of sports  ).

[Olympian1010 8,276]

30 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Oh my, the suspense during Yip's lead attempt! That, and the way it ended, is going on my list of favourite 2020 sports moments (it would have been there also if 2020 actually had more than 2,5 months of sports  ).

That was a fun one to watch. The moment after her climb was really touching too.
 

I have audio interviews with Yip and Contreras if that interests anyone 

[heywoodu 16,182]

1 hour ago, Olympian1010 said:

That was a fun one to watch. The moment after her climb was really touching too.
 

I have audio interviews with Yip and Contreras if that interests anyone 

Definitely.

[heywoodu 16,182]

Again

 

'Current' standings (athletes in yellow finished their lead, those in white have a 1 there to avoid Excel multiplying by 0 and so having 0 as total score). Bosco: "So Galla can now not finish ahead of Waller anymore." 

 

But that is simply not true! If two out of the next three, with Duffy and Bailey definitely not impossible to imagine, go ahead of Waller on the lead wall, Galla passes Waller again. It's like commentator Bosco, who I'm generally a fan of, doesn't understand that the points are multiplied instead of added...

 

Also the "Galla is now out of the fight for the Olympic sport" is just entirely false. If Valencia and Bailey take 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 1st on the lead wall, Galla would be the one winning the competition and so the Olympic ticket. Come on..

 

[heywoodu 16,182]

Only Duffy and Bailey to go and, contrary to what Charlie Bosco is saying, there are still three (!) possible winners of the gold medal and Olympic ticket, that is awesome 

[heywoodu 16,182]

Just posting it here as if it's live because there's nothing going on anyway, but with only Duffy to go this is incredible

 

Duffy wins the lead --> Duffy goes to the Olympics
Duffy beats Waller, but not Bailey (2nd) --> Galla goes to the Olympics
Duffy beats Galla, but not Waller (3rd) --> Waller goes to the Olympics
Duffy doesn't beat Galla (4th or worse) --> Waller and Galla are tied and I have no clue who out of these two goes to the Olympics

[dcro 10,210]

When watching it live, I thought it was rather obvious what wound happen...

[heywoodu 16,182]

6 minutes ago, dcro said:

When watching it live, I thought it was rather obvious what wound happen...

 

How? Because with the last climber halfway up the wall there were still three very possible winners  (unless you're listening to the commentator, who said that anything but a win for Duffy would mean Waller would qualify, which is not true)

[dcro 10,210]

1 minute ago, heywoodu said:

 

How? Because with the last climber halfway up the wall there were still three very possible winners  (unless you're listening to the commentator, who said that anything but a win for Duffy would mean Waller would qualify, which is not true)

 

No, mainly because Duffy apparently topped the wall in qualifying and Bailey was so slow. It looked like he was barely even trying.