Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2024

[Totallympics 84]

Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2024

 

Multi-Stage Event - 8 April 2024 - 22 September 2024

 

 

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Edited April 9, 2024 by Sindo

[Book 103]

Sport Climbing Olympians at the first World Cup events in Keqiao and Wujiang:

Keqiao Apr 8th - Apr 10th

Bouldering, Men:

• Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 2020 gold medalist
• Jakob Schubert (AUT) - 2020 bronze medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Lead and Combined World Champion
• Tomoa Narasaki  (JPN) - 2020 4th place, 2024 qualifier
• Mickael Mawem (FRA) - 2020 5th place, 2023 Bouldering World Champion
• Colin Duffy (USA) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier
• Jong-won Chon (KOR) - 2020 10th place
• Yufei Pan (CHN) - 2020 14th place
• Toby Roberts (GBR) - 2024 qualifier
• Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 2024 qualifier

Bouldering Women:

• Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 2020 gold medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Bouldering and Combined World Champion
• Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 2020 silver medalist
• Jessica Pilz (AUT) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier
• Chaehyun Seo (KOR) - 2020 8th place
• Kyra Condie (USA) - 2020 11th place
• Laura Rogora (ITA) - 2020 15th place
• Petra Klingler (SUI) - 2020 16th place
• Mia Krampl (SLO) - 2020 18th place
• Oceana Mackenzie (AUS) - 2020 19th place, 2024 qualifier
• Yueting Zhang (CHN) - 2024 qualifier

Wujiang Apr 12th - Apr 14th:

Lead Men:

• Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 2020 gold medalist
• Tomoa Narasaki  (JPN) - 2020 4th place, 2024 qualifier
• Colin Duffy (USA) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier
• Yufei Pan (CHN) - 2020 14th place
• Jong-won Chon (KOR) - 2020 10th place
• Toby Roberts (GBR) - 2024 qualifier
• Sorato Anraku (JPN) - 2024 qualifier
• Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 2024 qualifier

Lead Women:

• Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 2020 gold medalist, 2024 qualifier, 2023 Bouldering and Combined World Champion
• Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 2020 silver medalist
• Chaehyun Seo (KOR) - 2020 8th place
• Kyra Condie (USA) - 2020 11th place
• Laura Rogora (ITA) - 2020 15th place
• Petra Klingler (SUI) - 2020 16th place
• Mia Krampl (SLO) - 2020 18th place
• Yueting Zhang (CHN) - 2024 qualifier
   

Speed Men:

• Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) - 2020 11th place
• Ludovico Fossali (ITA) - 2020 19th place
• Matteo Zurloni (ITA) - 2024 qualifier, 2023 Speed World Champion
• Jinbao Long (CHN) - 2024 qualifier
• Samuel Watson (USA) - 2024 qualifier
• Rahmad Adi Mulyono (INA) - 2024 qualifier
• Julian David (NZL) - 2024 qualifier

Speed Women:

• Aleksanda Misoslaw (POL) - 2020 7th place, 2024 qualifier
• Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) - 2024 qualifier, 2023 Speed World Champion
• Emma Hunt (USA) - 2024 qualifier
• Piper Kelly (USA) - 2024 qualifier
• Lijuan Deng (CHN) - 2024 qualifier
• Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) - 2024 qualifier

Edited April 1, 2024 by Book

[Rafa Maciel 1,709]

First IFSC World Cup in Keqiao thrown into a bit of chaos as they have been forced to cancel the men's qualifying competition due to the weather. Everyone is advanced to the semi-finals and then there will be a 20 person final. 

 

Not entirely sure that the route setters did a great job today - I don't think I've ever seen a competition where there were so many flash runs. 

 

In the women's competition, Janja Garnbret, Nonaka Miho and Oceania Mackenzie all finished with 5 flashes. 

[heywoodu 16,460]

27 minutes ago, Rafa Maciel said:

and then there will be a 20 person final.

Well that's going to be unwatchable  

[Rafa Maciel 1,709]

 IFSC World Cup: Boulder - Keqiao 

 

 

 

Women's Finalists:

1.)  Janja Garnbret

2.)  Zelia Avezou

3.)  Anon Matsufji

4.)  Erin McNeice

5.)  Luo Zhilu

6.)  Camilla Moronia

---------------------------------

7.)  Madison Richardson

8.)  Chloe Caulier

9.)  Stasa Gejo

10.)  Oceania Mackenzie

[Rafa Maciel 1,709]

 IFSC World Cup: Boulder - Keqiao 

 

 

 

Women's Final:

1.)  Janja Garnbret - (4 top/4 zone) She really was the class of the competition with 10 flash efforts out of 13 obstacles.

2.)  Camilla Moronia - (2 top / 3 zone) She was the last qualifier for the final so a great result for her 

3.)  Luo Zhilu - (2 top / 2 zone) 

4.)  Zelia Avezou - (1 top / 3 zone)

5.)  Erin McNeice - (1 top / 2 zone) 

6.)  Anon Matsufji - (1 top / 2 zone) 

[Book 103]

Interesting to see how many new climbers reached the final for the women. If young talent starts to appear more this year there could be some favorites that miss the Olympics.

[Rafa Maciel 1,709]

 IFSC World Cup: Boulder - Keqiao 

 

 

 

Men's Finalists:

1.)  Sorato Anraku

1.)  Toby Roberts

3.)  Tomoa Narasaki

3.)  Ritsu Kayotani

5.)  Hannes Van Duysen

5.)  Satone Yoshida

7.)  Meichi Narasaki

7.)  Sam Avezou

9.)  Colin Duffy

9.)  Nicolai Uznik

11.)  Chon Jongwon

11.)  Anze Peharc

13.)  Jakob Schubert

13.)  Ram Levin

15.)  Lee Dohyun

15.)  Mickael Mawem

17.)  Jan Luca Posch

17.)  Yuji Fujiwaki

19.)  Max Milne

19.)  Dayan Akhtar

[Rafa Maciel 1,709]

 IFSC World Cup: Boulder - Keqiao 

 

 

 

Men's Final:

1.)  Tomoa Narasaki - 2 tops/4 zones

2.)  Sorato Anraku - 2 tops/4 zones

3.)  Hannes Van Duysen - 2 tops/3 zones

4.)  Toby Roberts - 2 tops/3 zones

5.)  Sam Avezou - 2 tops/3 zones

6.)  Meichi Narasaki - 2 tops/2 zones

7.)  Chon Jongwon - 1 top/4 zones

8.)  Jakob Schubert -1 top/4 zones

9.)  Max Milne - 1 top/3 zones

10.)  Jan Luca Posch - 1 top/3 zones

[Josh 13,475]

WR for  Samuel Watson in men’s speed with a MONSTER 4.79 

 

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