Sport Climbing IFSC Olympic Games Qualifier 2019

[phelps 7,830]

brave effort by Bassa Mawem in the Lead climb...

 

he'll end up 8th, but at least he gave it a decent try...

 

Kokoro Fujii now leading with only his teammate Meichi Narasaki left...

 

Narasaki only need a 5th place (28 holds) in the Lead climb to secure the win here in Toulouse...

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and Narasaki falls well earlier than needed! only 26+ and bronze medal for him!

 

so, Kokoro Fujii wins this Olympic Qualification Tournament ahead of Adam Ondra and his teammate...

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Men's Final, Lead Result

 

1. Adam Ondra

2. Kokoro Fujii

3. Alberto Ginès Lòpez

4. Nathaniel Coleman

5. Jan Hojer

6. Pan Yufei

7. Meichi Narasaki

8. Bassa Mawem

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Men's Olympic Qualification Tournament, Final Ranking

 

Gold: Kokoro Fujii, 20 pts

Silver: Adam Ondra, 24 pts

Bronze: Meichi Narasaki, 28 pts

 

4. Bassa Mawem, 64 pts

5. Jan Hojer, 70 pts

6. Pan Yufei, 72 pts

7. Alberto Ginès Lòpez, 105 pts

8. Nathaniel Coleman, 144 pts

Edited November 30, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 7,830]

Women's Final, Speed Result

 

1. Iuliia Kaplina

2. Kyra Condie

3. Julia Chanourdie

4. Futaba Ito

5. Laura Rogora

6. Lucka Rakovec

7. Mia Krampl

8. Ai Mori

[phelps 7,830]

Women's Final, Boulder Result

 

1. Futaba Ito

2. Ai Mori

3. Lucka Rakovec

4. Laura Rogora

5. Julia Chanourdie

6. Kyra Condie

7. Mia Krampl

8. Iuliia Kaplina

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Women's Final, Ranking after 2/3 Events

 

1. Futaba Ito, 4 pts

2. Iuliia Kaplina, 8 pts

3. Kyra Condie, 12 pts

4. Julia Chanourdie, 15 pts

5. Ai Mori, 16 pts

6. Lucka Rakovec, 18 pts

7. Laura Rogora, 20 pts

8. Mia Krampl, 49 pts

[phelps 7,830]

desperate situation for Krampl after 2 events...

 

basically she must win the Lead section and hope that Rakovec ends up at least 2 positions behind her...

 

meanwhile if Krampl finishes 2nd in the Lead section, Rakovec could afford to end up as low as 5th in the last climb...

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and this climb by Chanourdie has completely turned things around in the Slovenian battle for the Olympic spot!!!

 

now she's between Krampl (who's leading the Lead section with 32 holds) and Rakovec (3rd with 31+) by virtue of climbing time of all the girls stuck at 31+...Chanourdie, in fact, did it in 3.03 mins, meanwhile Rakovec in 4.16...

 

with only Futaba Ito still left to go, the only hope for Rakovec is the Japanese to overtake Krampl...

 

drama, big drama in Toulouse!

 

tbh, it's unfair that someone who doesn't have any interest in a competition ends up deciding the future of 2 different athletes...it should be a direct match-up, not a strange combination of other people's scores...

Edited December 1, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 7,830]

and Ito completes her climb with a score of only 24+, which means that Mia Krampl wins the Lead section and with an epic comeback earns the 2nd Slovenian Olympic spot for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games...

 

however, Ito wins the OQT...

 

sincerely, I can feel the pain in Rakovec's heart...