Sport Climbing 2022 - 2023 Discussion Thread

[Totallympics 69]

Edited August 17, 2024 by Sindo

[Olympian1010 8,070]

 

[heywoodu 15,337]

If anyone happens to see a replay for the men's boulder final at the European climbing championships, it'd be great if you can post it  

 

It was live on a dailymotion stream, but apparently those aren't available on-demand, so.....tough luck.

[Olympian1010 8,070]

  On 8/13/2022 at 9:54 PM, heywoodu said:

If anyone happens to see a replay for the men's boulder final at the European climbing championships, it'd be great if you can post it  

 

It was live on a dailymotion stream, but apparently those aren't available on-demand, so.....tough luck.

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Starts around 8:29:00 

 

[heywoodu 15,337]

  On 8/13/2022 at 10:24 PM, Olympian1010 said:

Starts around 8:29:00 

 

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I'll be damned, there are full livestreams available in the US?  

 

It works like a charm with my VPN, so thank you  I'll check out for more tomorrow!

[heywoodu 15,337]

What's with this weird scoring system in the bouldering in Munich? 

[phelps 7,804]

  On 8/14/2022 at 9:02 AM, heywoodu said:

What's with this weird scoring system in the bouldering in Munich? 

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they're trying a new system...it should be more "user friendly", but I don't think they're getting their target...

 

by the way, it's 3 points for a zone and 25 minus 0.1 for each attempt after the first for the Top...

[heywoodu 15,337]

  On 8/14/2022 at 9:10 AM, phelps said:

they're trying a new system...it should be more "user friendly", but I don't think they're getting their target...

 

by the way, it's 3 points for a zone and 25 minus 0.1 for each attempt after the first for the Top...

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I honestly don't get how it's more user friendly. I mean, imagine you're a random person who - like most people who watch the Olympics or something - has never seen sports climbing in your life.

 

How is a thing with a seemingly random and relative number of points more friendly than simply the absolute number of tops and zones?  

 

Edit: just asked my dad, who has never in his life seen competitive climbing. The tops + zones system seemed easy to understand for him, the points system confused him already  

[phelps 7,804]

I agree at 200%...

 

but you know, it must be youth and urban (you should have asked a 12 year old kid, not your dad)...

[heywoodu 15,337]

Watching yesterday's combined (at least I assume the rather cumbersome name 'Boulder & Lead' will be changed to combined ), and the lead graphics confused me a bit at first. I thought getting anywhere between holds A and B would give 1 point, between C and D 2 points, between E and F 5 points and then 10 points for the top, which would have been a laughably awful scoring system considering one can get 100 points in bouldering. But of course every hold between A and B is worth 1 point, every hold between C and D is worth 2 points and every hold between E and F is worth 5 points, which makes a lot more sense  

 

This combined scoring system this way is at least a billion times better than the terrible thing of multiplying positions, which actually is very hard to follow without constantly calculating all the changing possibilities. With this scoring system, once an athlete did boulder + lead, that's their score and that'll remain their score.