Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2019

[phelps 7,628]

2019 Sport Climbing World Cup, Stage #1 (Meiringen, SUI)

 

women's Bouldering

Gold: Janja Garnbret

Silver: Akiyo Noguchi

Bronze: Shauna Coxsey

[Olympian1010 7,937]

1 hour ago, phelps said:

 

his style might not be perfect, but he's the best climber ever...and his climbs on the most difficult walls out in the mountains are something unbelievable, watching him on a 9b/9c wall is just amazing...

Our climbing grades are very different 

[heywoodu 14,905]

Who on earth is supposed to beat Garnbret in Tokyo, apart from possibly Noguchi?  

[Olympian1010 7,937]

1 hour ago, heywoodu said:

Who on earth is supposed to beat Garnbret in Tokyo, apart from possibly Noguchi?  

I would actually label Noguchi and Garnbret as equal favorites. Their both really weak in speed climbing, so presumably a decent boulder and lead climber could leap frog them with an outstanding performance. I would put some money on Coxsey or Kim to battle for the podium. 

[phelps 7,628]

10 hours ago, heywoodu said:

Who on earth is supposed to beat Garnbret in Tokyo, apart from possibly Noguchi?  

 

right now, Jessica Pilz and maybe, but I don't think she's in the same class as the other 3 girls over the 3 events, Kim Ja In...

 

someone among the rest of the Japanese armada could well improve a lot, in any case...it's too early to make serious predictions on an event like the "combined"...most of the top athletes are still trying to understand if they can find their way to be competitive in more than 1 or 2 disciplines...things could change a lot in more than a year, I think...

Edited April 7, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 7,628]

8 hours ago, Olympian1010 said:

I would actually label Noguchi and Garnbret as equal favorites. Their both really weak in speed climbing, so presumably a decent boulder and lead climber could leap frog them with an outstanding performance. I would put some money on Coxsey or Kim to battle for the podium. 

 

Coxsey? no way...she's always been good only in bouldering...and I don't think she's gonna improve that much in the other disciplines to be a contender in Tokyo...I'd rather bet on Garnbret to improve her speed skills (she said she's training at that and she's gonna start in a few discipline's world cup events this year...

 

Noguchi right now is even slower than Garnbret in the speed event...we have to wait and see if she wants/can improve that section of the game, otherwise she's risking to lose her "virtual" silver medal rather than improving to gold...

[heywoodu 14,905]

Qualifying for the final with 0 tops...this seems a little poor.

 

[heywoodu 14,905]

Ondra dominated the men's semi's.

 

[phelps 7,628]

1 hour ago, heywoodu said:

Qualifying for the final with 0 tops...this seems a little poor.

 

 

or maybe the course was too difficult for the girls...

which lately is quite a tendency...

[phelps 7,628]

2019 Sport Climbing World Cup, Stage #2 (Moscow, RUS)

 

women's Speed

Gold: Song Yiling

Silver: Anouck Jaubert

Bronze: Iuliia Kaplina

 

men's Speed

Gold: Bassa Mawem

Silver: Vladislav Deulin

Bronze: Aspar Jaelolo