Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019

[phelps 8,403]

Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2019

 

Hachioji (JPN) - 11 August 2019 - 21 August 2019

 

 

Official Website

[phelps 8,403]

Schedule of Events (GMT +9)

 

 

Sunday, August 11th
h.10.00, women's Boulder Qualification

Monday, August 12th
h.10.00, men's Boulder Qualification

Tuesday, August 13th
h.09.00, women's Boulder Semifinal
h.12.45, men's Boulder Semifinal
h.16.45, women's Boulder Final
h.20.00, men's Boulder Final

Wednesday, August 14th
h.10.00, women & men's Lead Qualification

Thursday, August 15th
h.11.00, women & men's Lead Semifinals
h.19.00, women's Lead Final
h.20.00, men's Lead Final

Saturday, August 17th
h.12.30, women & men's Speed Qualification
h.17.30, women & men's Speed Finals

Sunday, August 18th
h.11.00/11.55/16.10, women's Combined Qualification (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day)

Monday, August 19th
h.11.00/11.55/16.10, men's Combined Qualification (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day)

Tuesday, August 20th
h.16.30/17.25/19.35, women's Combined Final (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day)

Wednesday, August 21st
h.16.30/17.25/19.35, men's Combined Final (Speed first, then Boulder, Lead to end up the day)

[phelps 8,403]

All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube...

[Olympian1010 8,274]

5 hours ago, phelps said:

All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube...

Generally with great commentary too. This isn’t the Olympic qualification event right?

[heywoodu 16,144]

5 hours ago, phelps said:

All Semifinals and Finals, as usual, will be Live (and On-Demand) for free on the IFSC page on Youtube...

Like in the World Cups, one of the many good reasons why sports climbing very much deserved to be Olympic. No dumb pay-walls (haha, walls) or stuff that's impossible to find, no, the whole season can be watched for free with excellent commentary on the single best streaming platform  

[phelps 8,403]

1 hour ago, Olympian1010 said:

Generally with great commentary too. This isn’t the Olympic qualification event right?

 

Oh, yes...I forgot to post it earlier...

 

 

This is also the first chance to qualify to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games...

 

 

directly from the official qualification pamphlet:

 

"The seven (7) highest placed athletes per gender at the (Combined Event of the) World Championships will be allocated one (1) quota place, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC (2 women, 2 men)".

 

"The quota place is allocated to the athlete(s) by name."

 

"The Host Country is guaranteed one (1) male and one (1) female athlete." (which means that Japan still can qualify 1 woman and/or 1 man through the qualification pathway, World Champs included)...

 

Full qualification system is here:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/FINAL_-_2019-02-01_-_Tokyo_2020_-_Qualification_System_-_Sport_Climbing_-_eng.pdf

[phelps 8,403]

Time to Climb

 

This week not only marks the start of the IFSC Climbing World Championships Hachioji 2019 but the first official Olympic qualifying event in the history of Sport Climbing.

Over 253 athletes from 39 different countries are registered to compete in the 12-day event that will include lead, bouldering, speed and combined.

 

Bouldering: Garnbret Seeks Another Win

 

The IFSC Bouldering World Cup season might have concluded in June, but the climbers are back at it again for the World Championship title.

After sweeping the world cup circuit, all eyes will be on Janja GARNBRET (SLO) to see if she can defend her title from Innsbruck and continue her winning streak.

Both Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) and Fanny GIBERT (FRA) are expected to compete to try to take the title from her.

This will be the first World Championship event for the surprise winner of the Vail World Cup, Yoshiyuki OGATA (JPN).

The Bouldering World Championship will also set up a rematch between Adam ONDRA (CZE) and Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) after their close battle for the 2019 Bouldering Overall Season title.

 

Lead: Reigning Champions vs. Stiff Competition

 

Austria claimed both Lead gold medals at last year’s World Championship and Jessica PILZ and Jakob SCHUBERT are back once again to take on the lead wall.

While there have only been three world cup events so far this season, Chaehyun SEO (KOR) is beginning to stand out from the pack with two back-to-back gold medals and a win against GARNBRET, she is a strong contender for the women’s Lead title.

ONDRA and this Lead Season’s frontrunner Alexander MEGOS (GER) are expected put the pressure on SCHUBERT for the coveted first place position on the podium in Hachioji after both finished in second and third place respectively in 2018.

 

Speed: Rematches and World Records

 

The Speed World Cup series has featured several different winners and a tight race in the overall rankings.

Last year’s podium finishers are back for another chance at a medal, while this season’s top athletes seek to take their place.

Innsbruck gold medalist and current men’s world record holder, Reza ALIPOUR (IRI) is up against the current overall leader for the season, Bassa MAWEM (FRA).

Russia’s Vladislav DEULIN and Dmitrii TIMOFEEV are also registered to compete.

New women’s world record holder, SONG Yi Ling (CHN) is participating in her first World Championship and seems to be the one to beat this year.

Will a new world record be set in Hachioji?

 

Combined: The Climb to Tokyo Starts Here

 

History will be made at this year’s World Championships as the top Sport Climbing athletes go toe-to-toe in the first Olympic qualifying event.

The best 20 climbers out of the 172 competing in Bouldering, Lead and Speed will fight in the Combined during the final three days of the World Championships.

Seven of the highest placed athletes per gender, with a maximum of 2 per country will qualify for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games.

As Team Japan continues to dominate the rankings this year, the question of who will represent the host country at the Olympics is about to be determined.

Both NARASAKI and NOGUCHI had strong Bouldering seasons and competed in the Lead Finals in Villars, while Miho NONAKA qualified for the Villars Speed Finals.

Kai HARADA and Kokoro FUJII are also strong contenders for the men’s combined, finishing in fourth and sixth in last year’s Combined event in Innsbruck, respectively.

 

 

All Credits to IFSC (ifsc-climbing.org)

Edited August 11, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 8,403]

Women's Boulder

 

Climbers qualified to the Semifinal Round

 

20th, Urska Repusic
19th, Mia Krampl
18th, Anne-Sophie Koller
17th, Zhang Yue Tong
16th, Shauna Coxsey
15th, Miho Nonaka
14th, Luce Douady
13th, Ievgeniia Kazbekova
12th, Sofya Yokoyama
11th, Alannah Yip
10th, Laura Rogora
9th, Kyra Condie
8th, Seo Chae Hyun
7th, Lucka Rakovec
6th, Nanako Kura
5th, Fanny Gibert
4th, Futaba Ito
3rd, Petra Klingler
2nd, Akiyo Noguchi
1st, Janja Garnbret

 

Full Qualifications Results

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=8253&cat=5

Edited August 13, 2019 by phelps

[phelps 8,403]

no major surprise in the first event of the 2019 world championships...

 

all the expected stars of the game are there, in the top positions and ready to fight for the medals...

 

just a couple of things...first, the young Korean sensation Seo Chae Hyun is very competitive also in Bouldering (not that it wasn't expected, but it was still to be proven), which means she could be a real threat for Garnbret and the Japanese armada also in the Olympic Combined discipline (her speed skills are still unknown); second, very good team effort by the Swiss girls...and this wasn't so obvious before the start of the competion (yeah, Petra Klinger was among the top climbers, but the other girls didn't have such good reputation as their leader)...

 

finally, some good news also for Italy, with Laura Rogora easily qualifying for the Boulder semis...

considering that she's also a very good Lead specialist (last year she narrowly missed the final at the world champs), there's still a reasonable chance she can at least qualify for the Olympic Combined competition at the end of this tournament...

[phelps 8,403]

Men's Boulder

 

Climbers qualified to the Semifinal Round

 

20th, Sergei Skorodumov
19th, Jan Hojer
18th, Michael Piccolruaz
17th, Rudolph Ruana
16th, Nathaniel Coleman
15th, Jernej Kruder
14th, Nathan Phillips
13th, Manuel Cornu
12th, Meichi Narasaki
11th, Sean McColl
10th, Kai Harada
9th, Jakob Schubert
8th, Yannick Flohè
7th, Keita Dohi
6th, Rai Sugimoto
5th, Tomoa Narasaki
4th, Chon Jong Won
3rd, Kokoro Fujii
2nd, Adam Ondra
1st, Yoshiyuki Ogata

 

Full Qualifications Results

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=8253&cat=6

Edited August 13, 2019 by phelps