Sport Climbing 2018 Discussion Thread

[phelps 8,695]

Edited January 1, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

The Youth World Championship shall include the following Age Groups:

i. Youth B: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 14 or 15 calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 2003 or 2004.

ii. Youth A: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 16 or 17  calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 2001 or 2002.

iii. Juniors: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 18 or 19 calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 1999 or 2000.

Edited August 12, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

Boulder Results

women's Youth A
Gold: Laura Rogora
Silver: Lucka Rakovec
Bronze: Futaba Ito

women's Youth B
Gold: Natsuki Tanii
Silver: Naile Meignan
Bronze: Hana Kudo

women's Juniors
Gold: Hannah Slaney
Silver: Urska Repusic
Bronze: Vita Lukan

men's Youth A
Gold: Sam Avezou
Silver: Eneko Carretero Cruz
Bronze: Nathan Martin

men's Youth B
Gold: Rei Kawamata
Silver: Thomas Podolan
Bronze: Ryoei Nukui

men's Juniors
Gold: Meichi Narasaki
Silver: Yannick Flohè
Bronze: Kai Harada

 

 

Speed Results

women's Youth A
Gold: Natalia Kalucka
Silver: Kamilla Kushaeva
Bronze: Aleksandra Kalucka

women's Youth B
Gold: Jeong Ji Min
Silver: Anna Calanca
Bronze: Emma Hunt

women's Juniors
Gold: Ekaterina Barashchuk
Silver: Elizaveta Ivanova
Bronze: Elena Remizova

men's Youth A
Gold: Almaz Nagaev
Silver: Julian Fishman
Bronze: Eduard Daukaev

men's Youth B
Gold: Jeon Ha Ram
Silver: Andrea Zappini
Bronze: Ellis Ernsberger

men's Juniors
Gold: Gian Luca Zodda
Silver: Noah Bratschi
Bronze: Demyan Zaytsev

 

 

Lead Results

 

women's Youth A
Gold: Brooke Raboutou
Silver: Futaba Ito
Bronze: Sandra Lettner

women's Youth B
Gold: Natsuki Tanii
Silver: Nika Potapova
Bronze: Zhang Yue Tong

women's Juniors
Gold: Vita Lukan
Silver: Nolwenn Arc
Bronze: Nina Arthaud

men's Youth A
Gold: Hidemasa Nishida
Silver: Luka Potocar
Bronze: Katsura Konishi

men's Youth B
Gold: Colin Duffy
Silver: Thomas Podolan
Bronze: Kentaro Maeda

men's Juniors
Gold: Meichi Narasaki
Silver: Jakub Konecny
Bronze: Kai Harada

Edited August 16, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

Final Medal Table

 

JPN,  6 / 1 / 7
RUS,  2 / 2 / 3
USA,  2 / 2 / 2
ITA,  2 / 2 / 0
KOR,  2 / 0 / 0
SLO,  1 / 3 / 1
FRA,  1 / 2 / 2
POL,  1 / 0 / 1
GBR,  1 / 0 / 0
AUT,  0 / 2 / 1
CZE,  0 / 1 / 0
GER,  0 / 1 / 0
ESP,  0 / 1 / 0
UKR,  0 / 1 / 0
CHN,  0 / 0 / 1

[phelps 8,695]

as expected, Japanese total domination in Moscow, with 6 Gold medals all coming in Boulder and Lead (with USA coming out as the second powerhouse ahead of Slovenia in the Lead events and Italy, France and Great Britain sharing the remaining honors in the Boulder events)...

Russia end up in second place thanks only to the Speed events, which were dominated by the hosts ahead of South Korea, Italy and Poland...

USA, Italy and South Korea also got 2 Gold medals each as the Russians, meanwhile the most disappointing result came from the Austrians, who couldn't win a single Gold (but at least they got 3 medals overall)...

[Olympian1010 8,297]

So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.

[Quasit 955]

31 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said:

So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.

"Alipour" is enough.

Edited September 3, 2018 by Quasit

[phelps 8,695]

2 ore fa, Olympian1010 ha scritto:

So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.

 

I think he doesn't have many chances...he's a pure sprint specialist, meanwhile the combined event normally is good for those who have both lead and boulder as their strongest events (and it's such a farce that it doesn't have any real specialist among the already established athletes)...

however, I'm really curious to see how the olympic event is going to develop...

for this year's champs I expect Ondra, Schubert, McColl and the Japanese guys (maybe also someone from France) to dominate the men's field, meanwhile I think the women's event is gonna be more open to some surprising winner (even though a battle between JPN and SLO is more likely than any other option)...

 

my 2 cents (more a preview than a prediction)...

 

Women's Lead:

the medallists will be among this girls: Garnbret (SLO), Pilz (AUT), Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Verhoeven (BEL)...anybody else would be a major upset

 

Men's Lead:

Ondra (CZE), Ghisolfi (ITA), Megos (GER), Schubert (AUT), Desgranges (FRA), the entire Slovenian team

 

Women's Boulder:

Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Gejo (SRB), Garnbret (SLO), Coxey (GBR), Gibert (FRA)...with the US girls as very dangerous outsiders

 

Men's Boulder:

it's gonna be a SLO vs JPN vs Ondra (CZE) question, but Hojer (GER) and Rubtsov (RUS) must not be underestimated

 

Women's Speed:

RUS vs POL vs INA (if they are not done after their home Asian Games) with Joubert (FRA) as the only other option

 

Men's Speed:

Boldyrev (UKR), Mawem (FRA), Alipourshenadzandifar (IRI), the Indonesians and the Russians (hoping for some Italian surprise, too...especially by Fossali)

Edited September 3, 2018 by phelps

[phelps 8,695]

p.s. I think that also these posts should go into the World Champs thread...