Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2025

[clemsonbeav 207]

Any thoughts on this?  In the paraclimbing champs, the men and women competed in the same event for class AL1 (unable to use or missing lower limbs).  There were 14 entries in total, including 4 women.  Four made it to the Finals, including 1 woman, who placed 4th.  Seems unfair, no?  Other classes like B1 had only 5 entries for men, taking 4 of which to Finals.  Seems like they could have made a separate W AL1 competition so that the top female could have won gold instead of finishing off the podium.

 

(I wrote IFSC expressing these concerns...perhaps they are aware of things I'm not.  And perhaps some of you might have greater insight.)

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/events/ifsc-para-climbing-world-championships-seoul-2025/results/index?discipline=lead&category=al1

 

Edit: ChatGPT helped me find in the regulations (https://images.ifsc-climbing.org/ifsc/image/private/t_q_good/prd/vyd6knw8nz1ddwlmelew.pdf) that the AL1 alone has the option to be mixed-gender if too few federations/entries, and the federations get to agree or not to the combination (See 1.7 and 1.8).  That makes me feel somewhat better.  I guess since of the 4 women I found, there were only two nations, and that's why they combined.

 

Edited September 27 by clemsonbeav

[clemsonbeav 207]

Men's Boulder Semi-finals...

 

Unfortunately, neither man from  made it.  Colin Duffy was doing well, but he missed the zone on the final boulder, and he had too many attempts on Boulder 1.

 

As with the women, there are a few surprises as to who is in and who is out:

 

Who's out (just listing some that are generally in finals):

Toby Roberts  

Hannes Van Duysen  

Sam Avezou  

(Paul Jenft  and Sohta Amagasa didn't make it out of qualis) 

 

Who's in (some dark horses who aren't normally around)

Jan-Luca Posch - Has only made one final each of the past three years 

Thorben Perry Bloem  - Never made a finals in a WC, qualified for semis in 20th place

Jack MacDougall  - Has done well this year in the European circuit, as well as one WC final

 

 

And after being shut out of the Women's final, Team  has 3 finalists, including siblings Tomoa and Meichi Narasaki.  Dohyun Lee  flashed the first three boulders (one of only two to even top Boulder 3).  Sorato Anraku  was the only one to top all 4.

 

Time for finals!

 

Edited September 29 by clemsonbeav

[clemsonbeav 207]

Whereas the women had a surprise medalist ( Melina Costanza  !!!), the men's medalists were locked in heading to the final boulder...the only issue was what color the medals would be.  Mejdi Schalk  , Lee Dohyun  , and Anraku Sorato  had all topped the first three boulders.  Medji was ahead on attempts (2 ahead), and Dohyun and Soratu were tied on attempts (Sorato ahead on count-back).

 

Mejdi was up first.  He had two attempts to secure the gold.  Almost made it the first time.  Then...just like Oriane in the Women's Final...he rested a long time, giving him as much energy as he could to top it...except he didn't do it.  He just had to sit and wait to see how Dohyun and Sorato did.

 

Dohyun was up next...he got zone, but not the top.  So, the leaderboard was Mejdi, Dohyun, and Sorato going into the final climb.

 

Sorato was the final climber.  Got the zone first try, cementing Dohyun's bronze.  Rested.  Waited.  Then up he went...and he got it!  After not making the Lead finals, this 18-year-old was determined and got the gold!  You could tell as he held the final hold that he was letting it sink in, and there was so much relief and pride.  Brought tears to my eyes!  So, just like with Oriane, the gold was there for Mejdi, but had it taken at the last moment.

 

Sorato... #1 ranking for Boulder, #1 in World Cup, and now #1 World Champion!  

 

Congrats to the medallists and to all.  A great competition.

Edited September 28 by clemsonbeav

[clemsonbeav 207]

Final Medal Table for the WCH

 

1)  2-1-0--3

2)  1-1-1--3

2)  1-1-1--3

4)  1-0-2--3

5)  1-0-0--1

6)  0-2-0--2

7)  0-1-0--1

8)  0-0-2--2

 

Multiple medals for Janja  (2 golds) and Dohyun  (1 gold, 1 bronze).  Congrats!

 

 definitely has the talent to do better, but it wasn't our year.  Looking forward to seeing our athletes get stronger!

[MatiReimundo 456]

Final Results:

 

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Men's Lead:

1. Lee Do-hyun

2. Satone Yoshida

3. Taisei Homma

4. Alberto Gines Lopez

5. Neo Suzuki  

6. Sam Avezou  

7. Jakob Schubert  

8. Giovanni Placci  

9. Putra Tri Ramadani

10. Sorato Ankaru

11. Luka Potocar  

12. Shion Omata  

13. Jonas Utelli  

14. Colin Duffy  

15. Adam Ondra  

16. Pan Yufei  

17. Noh Hyun-seung

18. Filip Schenk  

19. Zento Murashita  

20. Ties Vancraeynest  

21. Yannick Nagel  

22. Kwon Ki-beom  

23. Guillermo Peinado Franganillo  

24. Cho Seung-woon  

 

Men's Boulder:

1. Sorato Anraku

2. Mejdi Schalck

3. Lee Do-hyun

4. Tomoa Narasaki

5. Meichi Narasaki  

6. Jan-Luca Posch  

7. Thorben Perry Bloem  

8. Jack Macdougall

9. Nikolay Rusev

10. Dayan Akhtar

10. Yuji Fujiwaki  

12. Colin Duffy  

13. Hamish McArthur  

14. Sam Avezou  

15. Samuel Richard  

15. Hannes van Duysen  

17. Toby Roberts

18. Tomer Yakobovitch

19. Lukas Mokrolusky  

20. Pan Yufei  

21. Anze Peharc  

22. Benjamin Hanna  

23. Guillermo Peinado Franganillo  

24. Nicolas Collin  

 

Men's Speed:

1. Long Jianguo  

2. Leander Carmanns

3. Zach Hammer

4. Reza Alipour Shenazandifard  

5. Erik Noya Cardona  

5. Samuel Watson  

5. Michael Hom  

5. Wu Peng

9. Guillaume Moro  

9. Chu Shouhong  

9. Matteo Zurloni  

9. Li Xu  

9. Yaroslav Tkach  

9. Hryhorii Ilchyshyn  

9. Amir Maimuratov  

9. Shuto Fujino  

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Women's Lead:

1. Janja Garnbret  

2. Rosa Rekar

3. Seo Chae-hyun  

4. Erin McNeice

5. Annie Sanders  

6. Zelia Avezou  

7. Lucka Rakovec  

8. Flora Oblasser  

9. Laura Rogora

10. Mei Kotake  

11. Zhang Yuetong  

12. Kim Chae-yeong 

13. Manon Hily

14. Heloise Doumont

15. Natsuki Tanii

16. Kohana Mugishima

17. Mia Krampl

17. Mattea Potzi

19. Luo Zhilu

20. Natsumi Hirano  

21. Anna Maria Apel

22. Ryu Nakagawa

23. Kim Ja-in

24. Aleksandra Totkova

 

Women's Boulder:

1. Janja Garnbret

2. Oriane Bertone

3. Melina Costanza

4. Erin McNeice

5. Jennifer Eucharia Buckley

6. Anna Maria Apel

7. Annie Sanders

8. Ayala Kerem  

9. Miho Nonaka

10. Chloe Caulier

10. Zhang Yuetong

12. Zelia Avezou

13. Melody Sekikawa

13. Seo Chae-hyun

15. Lily Abriat

15. Mao Nakamura  

17. Futaba Ito

18. Agathe Calliet

19. Camilla Moroni

20. Tamar Cohen

21. Flora Oblasser

22. Oceania Mackenzie  

23. Mashiro Kuzuu

24. Emma Edwards

25. Zoe Peetermans  

 

Women's Speed:

1. Aleksandra Miroslaw

2. Deng Lijuan

3. Zhou Yafei

4. Jeong Ji-min

5. Qin Yumei

5. Zhang Mengli

5. Natalia Kalucka

5. Zhang Shaoqin

9. Isis Rothfork

9. Capucine Viglione

9. Beatrice Colli

9. Leslie Adriana Romero Perez

9. Carla Martinez Vidal

9. Meng Shixue  

9. Piper Kelly

9. Ren Koyamatsu  

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Full Results

 

Countries participating:                                                  

[clemsonbeav 207]

Fun fact: This is the first time someone other than Jakob Schubert or Adam Ondra has won M Lead since 2011.

 

And, it's the first time that neither Jakob nor Adam has been on the podium since 2007! 

[phelps 8,278]

8 hours ago, clemsonbeav said:

Fun fact: This is the first time someone other than Jakob Schubert or Adam Ondra has won M Lead since 2011.

 

And, it's the first time that neither Jakob nor Adam has been on the podium since 2007! 

time goes by...

[clemsonbeav 207]

1 hour ago, phelps said:

time goes by...

But Jakob still had a chance, making finals, and Adam made it to semis.  Two great athletes!  And also nice to see the next generation coming up.