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Sport Climbing Qualification to Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games

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Ondra needs to start at least in 1 speed event to make the combined ranking...

 

and even if he doesn't make any point in that event, he has so many from Lead and Boulder that it won't be a problem for him to qualify to the OQT (but it remains to be seen if he wants to fly to Far East in October, as normally he's used to skip those competitions...

 

just to make an example: Alex Megos is 8th in the Overall World Cup Ranking with the following Speed results: 109th at the 2018 World Champs, then 84th, 81st, 62nd, 83rd in this season's world cup events and 75th a few days ago at this year's Worlds...

and he does have only 2 medals (1x silver, 1x bronze) + 2 podium places in all Lead and Boulder events (actually, he also has a win from last year, too...but it's going to be discarded once the next ranking will be published, as it's from late July 2018)...

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Is there a limit to the number of athletes per NOC that can go to the OQT?  I cannot see anything in the Qualification System that sets a limit other than the top 20 from the Combined World Cup ranking (excl those already qualified at the Worlds).  I presume that countries that already have a maximum of two athletes qualified would not send anyone to the OQT (i.e. Japan), but could others, like Slovenia, send more than one even though they already have one place secured?

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On 06/10/2019 at 14:43, Cmon Mary said:

Is there a limit to the number of athletes per NOC that can go to the OQT?  I cannot see anything in the Qualification System that sets a limit other than the top 20 from the Combined World Cup ranking (excl those already qualified at the Worlds).  I presume that countries that already have a maximum of two athletes qualified would not send anyone to the OQT (i.e. Japan), but could others, like Slovenia, send more than one even though they already have one place secured?

 

 

Answered my own question as it is a limit of two per NOC that take part in the Qualifier - https://ifsc-egw.wavecdn.net/Editors/2019/i19_W2.pdf.  There does not appear to be a different limit for those countries that have already obtained one place, eg Slovenia.

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47 minutes ago, ratelesjo said:

Overall World Cup standings for Men and Women

 

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Men-27.10.2019.pdf

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2019/Women-27.10.2019.pdf

 

Top 20 not yet qualified will be selected for end of November OQT in Toulouse.

 

 

according to my quick calculation, based on this rankings, these should be the Lists of selected Climbers:

 

 

women

 

01 :SLO Lucka Rakovec
02 :CHN Zhang Yue Tong
03 :FRA Fanny Gibert
04 :KOR Kim Ja In
05 :FRA Julia Chanourdie
06 :SLO Mia Krampl
07 :USA Kyra Condie
08 :CHN Song Yi Ling
09 :KOR Sa Sol
10 :USA Ashima Shiraishi
11 :INA Aries Susanti Rahayu
12 :UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova
13 :ITA Laura Rogora
14 :CAN Alanna Yip
15 :IRI Elnaz Rekabi
16 :POL Aleksandra Kalucka
17 :AUT Sandra Lettner
18 :RUS Iuliia Kaplina
19 :AUS Oceania McKenzie
20 :RUS Elena Krasovskaia*


*Cut-off at Rank #31

 

 

men

 

01 :CZE Adam Ondra
02 :CHN Pan Yu Fei
03 :GER Jan Hojer
04 :GBR William Bosi
05 :SUI Sascha Lehmann
06 :FRA Manuel Cornu
07 :RUS Nikolai Yarilovets
08 :KOR Chon Jong Won
09 :ESP Alberto Ginès Lopez
10 :FRA Bassa Mawem
11 :GER Yannick Flohè
12 :INA Alfian Muhammad
13 :ITA Alberto Ghisolfi
14 :SLO Anze Peharc
15 :USA Nathaniel Coleman
16 :USA Sean Bailey
17 :SLO Jernej Kruder
18 :RUS Aleksei Rubtsov
19 :CHN Zhong Qi Xin
20 :ITA Marcello Bombardi*


*Cut-off at Rank #31

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In the qualifier there will be a qualification phase and a final. The question is whether the final will be of 8 or 10 climbers?

according to rules of climbing federation would be 8 (pages 60 to 64) https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v192_PUBLIC.pdf

 According to the web of the event would be 6 finalists in the combined event  https://www.ffme.fr/escalade/page/tournoi-de-qualification-olympique.html

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59 minutes ago, Jose Luis said:

In the qualifier there will be a qualification phase and a final. The question is whether the final will be of 8 or 10 climbers?

according to rules of climbing federation would be 8 (pages 60 to 64) https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v192_PUBLIC.pdf

 According to the web of the event would be 6 finalists in the combined event  https://www.ffme.fr/escalade/page/tournoi-de-qualification-olympique.html

If it’s a dry run of the Olympic format, there should only be six finalists. The World Championships format would be 8 finalists. I’d prefer 8, just to keep the competition interesting throughout.


“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Normally federations try to close the qualification tournaments format as close to the Olympic one as possible (looking at the example of modern pentathlon). So this should be six finalists with all of them qualifying (with the NOC limits saved) and four best non-qualified to the final (or more if the NOC limit applies to any finalist).

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8 finalists, 6 quota places for the Olympics.

 

6 finalists was the old format, now there are 8 so they can have a speed event with quarter/semi/finals.

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