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phelps

Sport Climbing 2018 Discussion Thread

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Edited by phelps

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The Youth World Championship shall include the following Age Groups:


i. Youth B: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 14 or 15 calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 2003 or 2004.


ii. Youth A: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 16 or 17  calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 2001 or 2002.


iii. Juniors: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 18 or 19 calendar years before the year of the competition.

e.g. those competing in the Youth World Championship in 2018 shall have been born in either 1999 or 2000.

Edited by phelps

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Boulder Results


women's Youth A
Gold: :ITA Laura Rogora
Silver: :SLO Lucka Rakovec
Bronze: :JPN Futaba Ito


women's Youth B
Gold: :JPN Natsuki Tanii
Silver: :FRA Naile Meignan
Bronze: :JPN Hana Kudo


women's Juniors
Gold: :GBR Hannah Slaney
Silver: :SLO Urska Repusic
Bronze: :SLO Vita Lukan


men's Youth A
Gold: :FRA Sam Avezou
Silver: :ESP Eneko Carretero Cruz
Bronze: :FRA Nathan Martin


men's Youth B
Gold: :JPN Rei Kawamata
Silver: :AUT Thomas Podolan
Bronze: :JPN Ryoei Nukui


men's Juniors
Gold: :JPN Meichi Narasaki
Silver: :GER Yannick Flohè
Bronze: :JPN Kai Harada

 

 

Speed Results


women's Youth A
Gold: :POL Natalia Kalucka
Silver: :RUS Kamilla Kushaeva
Bronze: :POL Aleksandra Kalucka


women's Youth B
Gold: :KOR Jeong Ji Min
Silver: :ITA Anna Calanca
Bronze: :USA Emma Hunt


women's Juniors
Gold: :RUS Ekaterina Barashchuk
Silver: :RUS Elizaveta Ivanova
Bronze: :RUS Elena Remizova


men's Youth A
Gold: :RUS Almaz Nagaev
Silver: :USA Julian Fishman
Bronze: :RUS Eduard Daukaev


men's Youth B
Gold: :KOR Jeon Ha Ram
Silver: :ITA Andrea Zappini
Bronze: :USA Ellis Ernsberger


men's Juniors
Gold: :ITA Gian Luca Zodda
Silver: :USA Noah Bratschi
Bronze: :RUS Demyan Zaytsev

 

 

Lead Results

 

women's Youth A
Gold: :USA Brooke Raboutou
Silver: :JPN Futaba Ito
Bronze: :AUT Sandra Lettner


women's Youth B
Gold: :JPN Natsuki Tanii
Silver: :UKR Nika Potapova
Bronze: :CHN Zhang Yue Tong


women's Juniors
Gold: :SLO Vita Lukan
Silver: :FRA Nolwenn Arc
Bronze: :FRA Nina Arthaud


men's Youth A
Gold: :JPN Hidemasa Nishida
Silver: :SLO Luka Potocar
Bronze: :JPN Katsura Konishi


men's Youth B
Gold: :USA Colin Duffy
Silver: :AUT Thomas Podolan
Bronze: :JPN Kentaro Maeda


men's Juniors
Gold: :JPN Meichi Narasaki
Silver: :CZE Jakub Konecny
Bronze: :JPN Kai Harada

Edited by phelps

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Final Medal Table

 

JPN,  6 / 1 / 7
RUS,  2 / 2 / 3
USA,  2 / 2 / 2
ITA,  2 / 2 / 0
KOR,  2 / 0 / 0
SLO,  1 / 3 / 1
FRA,  1 / 2 / 2
POL,  1 / 0 / 1
GBR,  1 / 0 / 0
AUT,  0 / 2 / 1
CZE,  0 / 1 / 0
GER,  0 / 1 / 0
ESP,  0 / 1 / 0
UKR,  0 / 1 / 0
CHN,  0 / 0 / 1

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as expected, Japanese total domination in Moscow, with 6 Gold medals all coming in Boulder and Lead (with USA coming out as the second powerhouse ahead of Slovenia in the Lead events and Italy, France and Great Britain sharing the remaining honors in the Boulder events)...

Russia end up in second place thanks only to the Speed events, which were dominated by the hosts ahead of South Korea, Italy and Poland...

USA, Italy and South Korea also got 2 Gold medals each as the Russians, meanwhile the most disappointing result came from the Austrians, who couldn't win a single Gold (but at least they got 3 medals overall)...

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So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.


“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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31 minutes ago, Olympian1010 said:

So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.

"Alipour" is enough. :d

Edited by Quasit

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2 ore fa, Olympian1010 ha scritto:

So in the past year I’ve watched Reza A. (I’m not even attempting to spell his name) take two major Climbing titles simply through false starts. I think what makes him so good, is that he is always so relaxed. I love watching him climb, so hopefully (and I know he won’t) he qualifies for the Olympics.

 

I think he doesn't have many chances...he's a pure sprint specialist, meanwhile the combined event normally is good for those who have both lead and boulder as their strongest events (and it's such a farce that it doesn't have any real specialist among the already established athletes)...

however, I'm really curious to see how the olympic event is going to develop...

for this year's champs I expect Ondra, Schubert, McColl and the Japanese guys (maybe also someone from France) to dominate the men's field, meanwhile I think the women's event is gonna be more open to some surprising winner (even though a battle between JPN and SLO is more likely than any other option)...

 

my 2 cents (more a preview than a prediction)...

 

Women's Lead:

the medallists will be among this girls: Garnbret (SLO), Pilz (AUT), Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Verhoeven (BEL)...anybody else would be a major upset

 

Men's Lead:

Ondra (CZE), Ghisolfi (ITA), Megos (GER), Schubert (AUT), Desgranges (FRA), the entire Slovenian team

 

Women's Boulder:

Nonaka (JPN), Noguchi (JPN), Gejo (SRB), Garnbret (SLO), Coxey (GBR), Gibert (FRA)...with the US girls as very dangerous outsiders

 

Men's Boulder:

it's gonna be a SLO vs JPN vs Ondra (CZE) question, but Hojer (GER) and Rubtsov (RUS) must not be underestimated

 

Women's Speed:

RUS vs POL vs INA (if they are not done after their home Asian Games) with Joubert (FRA) as the only other option

 

Men's Speed:

Boldyrev (UKR), Mawem (FRA), Alipourshenadzandifar (IRI), the Indonesians and the Russians (hoping for some Italian surprise, too...especially by Fossali)

Edited by phelps

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p.s. I think that also these posts should go into the World Champs thread...:mumble:

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