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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

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2 ore fa, MHSN ha scritto:

 

in AG for the finals they had 3 direct knockout matches between 6 finalists, winners + the the best loser made it to the semifinal and go on

while in the qualification, it was just best of two runs and they sorted athletes based on that.

 

of course I know there is no chance for Alipour, he won't even try the combined event. actually I'm thinking if Japan and Korea complete their quotas before the Asian qualifiers, (that's my question if they are capable of that or not) there will be a slim (but realistic) chance for our climbers , for example in AG, if we exclude Japanese/Korean climbers, Rekabi was 1st in boulder and 2nd in lead , but her very poor result in Speed was costly and she lost the final on tiebreaker to one of Japanese girls.

 

well, looking at the qualification rules, I think Japan (they only have 1 host Nation quota) will easily earn their 2nd spot at the 2019 World Champs (which will be held in Tokyo)...

then "timing" could play a decisive game for some Countries (Iran included)...because if the Continental Champs will be held before the global qualification tournament (towards the end of 2019, but not yet officially scheduled right now), then we could have 1 if not 2 Koreans competing for a single spot, which could prove a problem for your climbers...

meanwhile if we have let's say at least 1 Korean qualified through the World Champs and/or the World Cup and the World qualifier held before the Continental Champs, then the chances for athletes from Countries other than KOR and JPN would increase a lot...

all this, provided that the Chinese don't start taking Olympic Climbing seriously and, above all, someone from Russia doesn't change his/her Nationality to any of the Asian former Soviet Republics (something like that could change the entire Olympic qualification perspective for the Asian Continent...apart for Japan, of course)...

 

p.s. I just gave a look at the Olympic format...in the final (with 6 climbers), the speed part of the event will be contested with the format: Quarterfinals (#1 vs #6 seed, #2 vs #5 and #3 vs #4), then Semifinals (the 3 winners and the "lucky -best time- loser" of the 3 QTF heats) and 3rd place + 1st place Finals...

therefore, I think they will use the same format also in the upcoming Worlds...

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Day 1 was dedicated to the Women's Lead Qualification...

 

and those are the 26 women qualified for the Semifinals (listed in reverse order of the qualification result):

 

:USA Margo Hayes
:RUS Anna Zaikina
:UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova
:SUI Petra Klingler
:RUS Ekaterina Kipriianova
:FRA Manon Hily
:FRA Hélène Janicot
:SUI Anne-Sophie Koller
:SLO Mia Krampl
:AUT Sandra Lettner
:BEL Heloïse Doumont
:KOR Sol Sa
:SUI Katherine Choong
:ITA Laura Rogora
:JPN Miho Nonaka
:JPN Mei Kotake
:SLO Lucka Rakovec
:GBR Molly Thompson-Smith
:AUT Christine Schranz
:AUT Hannah Schubert
:JPN Akiyo Noguchi
:USA Ashima Shiraishi
:BEL Anak Verhoeven
:KOR Ja In Kim
:AUT Jessica Pilz
:SLO Janja Garnbret

 

p.s. 5 of those girls were born in the year 2000 (1) or 2001 (4)...

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no surprises in the first event of the championships...all the expected protagonists have gone through to the semifinal round and the main favourites already dominated the field in today's exercise...

and I'm particularly happy for our young big (very big) hope Laura Rogora (class of 2001), who won the Boulder Youth World Title just a couple of weeks ago and today she's been able to qualify for the semis in the Lead event (which is not supposed to be her forte)...

tomorrow, the men's Lead quaifications will be on stage...

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Men's Lead, climbers qualified to the Semifinals

 

:AUT Georg Parma
:UKR Fedir Samoilov
:JPN Meichi Narasaki
:FRA Thomas Joannes
:SWE Hannes Puman
:JPN Shuta Tanaka
:RUS Aleksei Rubtsov
:JPN Kai Harada
:GBR William Bosi
:AUT Jakob Schubert
:JPN Tomoaki Takata
:NED Jorg Verhoeven
:CZE Jakub Konecny
:BEL Loïc Timmermans
:ITA Marcello Bombardi
:SUI Sascha Lehmann
:JPN Tomoa Narasaki
:SLO Luka Potocar
:AUT Max Rudigier
:GER Alexander Megos
:USA Rudolph Ruana
:ITA Francesco Vettorata
:USA Sean Bailey
:ITA Stefano Ghisolfi
:CZE Adam Ondra
:SLO Domen Skofic

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great day for Italy, with the expected Ghisolfi second only to the living legend Adam Ondra in his qualification group, but also with 2 more guys making it through to the semis, Francesco Vettorata and Marcello Bombardi...and that was definitely less expected...

 

but the news of the day is the early elimination of the reigning European Champion (and one of the main favourites here, too), the Frenchman Romain Desgranges...

 

not so good looking the local hero, Jakub Schubert, but still safely through...meanwhile the other big names (Ondra, Skofic, Megos above all) were just as good as expected...

 

Tomorrow the 1st Gold Medal will be awarded, the Women's Lead...semifinals at 1 p.m. CET and the big final at 7 p.m. CET...

 

all the action, as usual, live for free on IFSC's official page on Youtube:

 

Semifinals here:

 

and Finals here:

 

p.s. and for those who can watch it, Live TV broadcast on the Austrian public TV channel ORF Sport+ HD (satellite Astra @ 19.2° East, encrypted...you need an ORF/Austriasat subscription to watch this channel)...

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2 hours ago, phelps said:

great day for Italy, with the expected Ghisolfi second only to the living legend Adam Ondra in his qualification group, but also with 2 more guys making it through to the semis, Francesco Vettorata and Marcello Bombardi...and that was definitely less expected...

 

but the news of the day is the early elimination of the reigning European Champion (and one of the main favourites here, too), the Frenchman Romain Desgranges...

 

not so good looking the local hero, Jakub Schubert, but still safely through...meanwhile the other big names (Ondra, Skofic, Megos above all) were just as good as expected...

 

Tomorrow the 1st Gold Medal will be awarded, the Women's Lead...semifinals at 1 p.m. CET and the big final at 7 p.m. CET...

 

all the action, as usual, live for free on IFSC's official page on Youtube:

 

Semifinals here:

 

and Finals here:

 

p.s. and for those who can watch it, Live TV broadcast on the Austrian public TV channel ORF Sport+ HD (satellite Astra @ 19.2° East, encrypted...you need an ORF/Austriasat subscription to watch this channel)...

Or on Totallympics TV ;)

Edited by Olympian1010

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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It's very nice see surprise that Eurosport boardcasting the WCh :) 

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Amazing 44 for the 17years old Laura Rogora... let's hope that this will be enough for the final :fingers: 

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after a slow start now things are getting hot and the big names are putting on quite a good show...Verhoeven and Kim did even make the top of the wall...

 

and Pilz did reach the top, too...

 

 

Edited by phelps

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and finally also queen Janja goes top without even struggling...actually, joking with the last (very difficult) passage...

 

looking at what we've seen right now, the final looks very promising and exciting...

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