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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2018

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what a final! the route looked indeed too difficult (actually, I think it was definitely too difficult...the semifinal heat was way more exciting also for the 3rd through mid-ranking positions), but then Jessica and Janja showed us that no route is really too difficult...

their battle for the Gold medal is probably the highlight of the entire championship, even if this is only the first competition to be completed...

I'm happy for Jessica, who is now World Champion...and she won in front of the home crowd...but a the same time I'm so sad for Janja, who's my favourite climber and lost just because of those *** 12 seconds (and frankly it's really painful to lose the Gold medal at the tie-breaker after reaching the top of the wall with all the pressure she had on her shoulders once Pilz completed her climb in that way)...

pity also for "our" teenage sensation, Laura Rogora, who couldn't repeat herself in the final, after an amazing semifinal climb...but you can't buy experience at the supermarket...

 

and Tomorrow, it's time for the men to earn their honors in the Lead event...I just can't wait (c'mon, Stefano!)...

 

Women's Lead

 

Gold: :AUT Jessica Pilz

Silver: :SLO Janja Garnbret

Bronze: :KOR Kim Ja In

 

Full Competition Results here:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1564&cat=2

Edited by phelps

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I'm not a regular watcher of this sport yet but that semifinal route looks even more ridiculous than the women's one last night. :wacko:

Ghisolfi not even making the final, Ondra barely in...

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29 minuti fa, Quasit ha scritto:

I'm not a regular watcher of this sport yet but that semifinal route looks even more ridiculous than the women's one last night. :wacko:

Ghisolfi not even making the final, Ondra barely in...

 

yeah, they are definitely going too much further...

I wonder what's gonna happen tonight?

meh...

they're just killing the show...difficult doesn't mean impossible...

not having a single "Top" in the semifinal round, normally is just unthinkable...

 

by the way, thanks to this kind of routes, we're gonna have a 10-man final also in the men's division...

 

Men's Lead, climbers qualified to the Final

 

:JPN Tomoaki Takata
:CZE Adam Ondra
:SUI Sascha Lehmann

:CZE Jakub Konecny

:JPN Kai Harada

:ITA Marcello Bombardi

:JPN Meichi Narasaki

:GER Alexander Megos

:AUT Jakob Schubert

:SLO Domen Skofic

 

 

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despite the very diffcult and unusual route of the semifinal round, in any case we have almost all the favourites qualified for the final act...

in fact, only Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) are the really big names eliminated earlier today (and we should also add Romain Desgranges, FRA, who went already out in the qualifications 2 days ago)...

 

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as expected, the final was ruined by a damn crazy (basically impossible) route...

 

OK...this is the World Championship and things must be complicated, but this was definitely too much also for this kind of event...

when nobody can even get close to the Top of the wall, it's obvious that the technical commission made a big mistake in building the route...:evil::facepalm::wall:

 

having said that, we still have a "dream" podium, with 3 of the 4/5 main pre-competition favourites...so, at least we can't say that we had a "roulette" final, but a competition where the best climbers did show why they are the best (climbers)...

 

and also tonight we had to use a tie-breaker to decide the 2018 world champion, but this time, since Schubert and Ondra were not tied in the semifinals, we only went back to the "classic" countback (the best in the previous round has the advantage), without the need to go further and use the cruel climbing time tie-breaker (as t happened yesterday in the women's final)...

 

and finally it was Austria once again to come up with the top honor, making the host the absolute dominator of the Lead competitions thanks to both Gold Medals in this particular disciplines...

 

tomorrow's rest day...from Tuesday, the Boulder competitions will be on stage...and despite Austria still have some chances, I expect the music to change drastically...

 

p.s. just another thing about the lead finals (and semis)...call me a conservative, but I don't think that all that disco music and strobo lights in the arena during the climbs did help the athletes through their efforts...:old::zip:

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I had a great time watching today, looking forward to the boulders on Tuesday and a obviously the Olympics 

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Women's Boulder, climbers qualified to the Semifinals

 

:RUS Tatiana Shemulinkina
:CAN Alannah Yip
:AUT Katharina Saurwein
:AUT Johanna Färber
:FRA Manon Hily
:AUT Jessica Pilz
:KOR Sol Sa
:FRA Fanny Gibert
:GBR Hannah Slaney
:SUI Petra Klingler
:AUT Berit Schwaiger
:USA Alex Puccio
:UKR Ievgeniia Kazbekova
:BEL Chloe Caulier
:USA Margo Hayes
:SLO Katja Kadic
:SRB Stasa Gejo
:JPN Miho Nonaka
:SLO Janja Garnbret
:JPN Akiya Noguchi

Edited by phelps

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I'm gonna watch the lead competition now, can someone explain to me in easy terms again what the meaning of all this is? :p

 

zyS02l0.png

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1 ora fa, heywoodu ha scritto:

I'm gonna watch the lead competition now, can someone explain to me in easy terms again what the meaning of all this is? :p

 

zyS02l0.png

 

this is the qualifications result of the Lead event, which was held with the athletes competing in 2 separate groups...

the numbers you see are the final placing in their respective qualification heat and, between brackets, the ranking points within each group of starters (ranking is used to build the starting groups in the various competitions that need 2 separate groups...the serpentine system is used for that)...

the formula for the ranking points is available at pages 27-28 of the rulebook

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/Event_regulations/IFSC-Rules_2018_V1.5.pdf

 

Edited by phelps
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Men's Boulder, climbers qualified to the Semifinals

 

:AUT Florian Klingler
:AUT Jakob Schubert
:GBR William Ridal
:UKR Sergii Topishko
:ISR Nimrod Marcus
:GER Jan Hojer
:FRA Manuel Cornu
:JPN Keita Watabe
:ITA Gabriele Moroni
:SLO Gregor Vezonik
:GBR Nathan Phillips
:JPN Kokoro Fujii
:CZE Adam Ondra
:RUS Aleksei Rubtsov
:FRA Mickael Mawem
:JPN Yoshiyuki Ogata
:JPN Kai Harada
:KOR Jong Won Chon
:JPN Tomoa Narasaki
:SLO Jernej Kruder

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no major surprise in the men's boulder qualifications, all the favourite guys are through without too many troubles...

 

tomorrow it's time for the entire competition of the fast and furious Speed event, where a great fight between the Russians and the Asian climbers (and France, Poland + hopefully also Italy as the outsiders...well, actually Joubert from France in the women's division and Dzienski from Poland in the men's division are more than simple outsiders) is expected...

 

the Finals (M+W) are scheduled for 8 p.m. CET (Live on the usual channels...Youtube, ORF Sport+, Eurosport and Eurosport Player, Totallympics TV)...

 

p.s. tomorrow it's also time for the Para-Cimbing Finals...but don't expect me to follow and post anything about that...

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