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Just now, Vojthas said:

TAKE/BUY MEMORABILIAS - pins, t-shirt, whatever there is and will make you remember the competition. Collect papers with results. If you happen to see some bib/start number - take it (after the competition! :p ).

Memorabilia is rather expensive, so passing on that. I’ve seen some pins, so maybe I’ll try my luck at that. I do plan ask to take one of their posters at the end of the competition. 
 

I already got athlete interviews, so I’m a happy man.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Alrighty, we’re about an hour out from day two. I’ll be “live tweeting” again, and you can expect another comprehensive review. I’m just hanging in the press room writing a few articles, but I think it might be time to go and explore the venue and outdoor festival a bit.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Well, it’s past midnight here, but I’m finally finished. Here’s a comprehensive review of today’s action complete with athlete interviews: https://games24.totallympics.com/?p=1812

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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58 minutes ago, LDOG said:

 

Why is it unfortunate? Their level is really poor and Argentina/Chile have another hundred of athletes qualified. Better this way than spend money on a olympic tourist. 

Contreras and Aguado are actually very good climbers. I had actually pegged them as the favorites to qualify today. Yip was a surprise winner for me (despite her being more well known than the other two)

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, JoshMartini007 said:

Yip should have qualified earlier, it's unfortunate she had to take a spot from one of the South American competitors.

Yeah, everyone not Yip was completely distraught. I’ve never been in an environment like that. I really felt for Contreras because she was the real favorite for the quota. She was very nice, and kind enough to give me interview just as she was about to leave the venue as well.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Can confirm that she did in fact get the quota, despite two Chilean protests (Boulder and Lead from my understanding). I have no clue what those concerned, but Yip was by far the best climber today. I did manage to get an interview with her, but I don’t know how much will be usable. I got an interview with Contreras as well.

 

Overall, I really enjoyed myself, and climbing was great. The layout of gym is really bad for those type of competition though.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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35 minutes ago, JoshMartini007 said:

I'm confused with the results page. The speed and bouldering results looks wrong.

 

But :CAN is in first and on pace to win so I don't mind :p

Bouldering isn’t done. We’re just about to start the third problem. The Canadians are in fact killing it. Rojas is out I’m afraid. Contreras looks good too. Aguado looks terrible. Americans are meh.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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14 minutes ago, phelps said:

 

but don't forget to post at least the final rankings here in this thread...;)

Yes, for sure. They’ll be in a article published too. Might publish the article first in order to make the press conferences, and other fun stuff.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Got to speak with the IFSC Communications Director. I’m literally completely out of my league right now. Now, we just sitting across from each doing work. The perks of putting in hours of effort into building a good media organization I suppose. I’m so happy that I get this privilege, and I get to share it with all of you. Remember, updates will most likely be on my personal Twitter (scores, personal observations, comments).

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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4C5B7DFA-D28D-4691-8765-4DC77B6546C6.jpeg

 

Thankfully no problems. People seemed to think it was odd that a 19 year old in a climbing gym shirt was accredited for this event :p

 

Gym is by far the largest I’ve been in. Really impressive facilities. There’s a actually a good crowd already hanging out about and hour and a half before the Speed comp. The venue is quite literally next door to LAX, so if someone does have Coronavirus, we can ship their ass off :p

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Alrighty, I’m en route to the venue. I should get there a bit before the scheduled start of Speed. Hopefully, I’ll be able to bring y’all good coverage. If I’m able to, I be “live tweeting” from my personal Twitter or Totallympics Media Twitter.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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We now know the men’s finalists too:

:USA Bailey

:USA Galla

:USA Duffy

:ECU Granja

:ECU Valencia

:USA Waller

:MEX Santos Buhl

:BRA Grosso

 

This is essentially US national selection with a little added excitement. The Ecuadorians are the strongest speed climbers, so a decent Boulder or Lead could give them a fighting chance. Mexico and Brazil are generally weak, but they’ve managed to create some climber apparently. Mexico could make some inroads in Speed, but he’ll to seriously improve upon his Lead. Brazil is little more than a wall decoration I’m afraid (he actually had a weirdly good Lead performance in Qualification).

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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18 minutes ago, thiago_simoes said:

Every time IFSC pops up, I think it's something about the school in which I work (IFSC, Instituto Federal de Santa Catarina).

Is this the first edition of the IFSC Pan Ams? 

IFSC Pan American Combined Championships? Yes. IFSC Pan American Championships? No, those have been around for a while. In fact, they will be held later this year, and award quotas for next years World Games (which I will also hopefully be at).

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Dependent upon how many climbers make the final round (don’t know if it’s 6 or 8 at this competition), we know the woman’s finalists for tomorrow (which is the first of two days in which I’ll be in attendance):

 

If 6:

:USA Bair

:CHI Contreras

:ARG Aguado

:USA Chi

:USA Hunt

:CAN Yip

 

If 8: 

those 6 above

:ECU Rojas

:CAN Frangos 

 

If only 6 make it, it would be a huge shame for Rojas because she has been quite strong in the Pan American region. Plus, she placed 5th in women’s pre-qualification.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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This will be my first event as accredited press! I’ll have articles up on Totallympics Media, and maybe an interview or two for the podcast.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing 2019 Discussion Thread
Posted
1 hour ago, hckosice said:

 

what you meant ? Súľov mountains ?

Yeah, whenever I see :SVK I feel the need to shout you out. Just be happy I was too lazy to make a :SLO joke today :d

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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4 minutes ago, JoshMartini007 said:

 

Some sports are quite lax about minimum requirements. Judo is another sport where athletes not even listed in the rankings can be selected to compete.

 

At least in Judo, the skill level between master and intermediate isn’t that pronounced as compared to other sports.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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12 minutes ago, dcro said:

Is there any Tripartite nation on the whole climbing circuit though? Seems to me there will be reallocations.

I believe @JoshMartini007 said there wasn’t. I also remember something vaguely about a :PAK climber in the men’s side.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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I can’t believe that one (or both) of Gibert or Lettner will miss the Olympics :yikes:. I had Gibert down as a serious contender. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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18 minutes ago, bestmen said:

isn't she the WR , not good ranked now

Yes, she’s the speed WR holder. That means absolutely nothing in this combined competition. The Paris 2024 format will be much better.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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