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9 hours ago, NearPup said:

That actually seem like a pretty cool format. Not sure how well it works to have men and women climb the same boulder, but the idea of having the pair collaborate to solve the problem is really neat.

They don’t climb the same Boulder. There are 3 sections of two Boulders each. Each time around a team nominates one man to climb a Boulder and one women to climb the other Boulder. I do believe their allowed to give each other beta and other support though. The other major difference is that they only see the Boulder when they go to climb it, not during the observation period before. They also have 5 minutes, instead of 4 minutes, to top the Boulder.

 

The climbing press I follow seemed to like the idea. It was getting good reviews from the climbing journalists there. I haven’t seen much about the athletes opinion though.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Results from the inaugural Mixed Team Boulder competition: https://cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/images/Events/Results/2021/IFSC_Final_Mixed_Team_Event_2021.pdf

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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IFSC has posted/confirmed the full list climbers qualified for Tokyo 2020: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/olympic-games/tokyo-2020

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, Benolympique said:

South Africa is the only country to have sent a delegation

Yes, that’s generally how African qualification events in sports climbing go. There are a few other countries with federation’s, but generally the South African National Championships serve as qualifiers for multi-sports events.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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51 minutes ago, rybak said:

http://aroundtherings.com/site/A__101929/Title__IFSC-ASIAN-CHAMPIONSHIPS-IN-XIAMEN-CANCELLED/292/Articles

 

So, it's official that Asian qualifications are cancelled, as @Vic Liu wrote, the two quotas are awarded to :KOR via their results at last World Championships.

It’s very likely :KOR would have taken both quotas anyway. Maybe :TPE could have challenged for the women’s spot. :KAZ:CHN could have gained more climbers possibly, but at least they already qualified some.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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5 minutes ago, Illya said:

Klinger already obtained her quota

Ah, thanks. I didn’t bother to check quotas since I figured those athletes wouldn’t bother competing.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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17 minutes ago, rybak said:

So, Ola Kałucka still have good chance to qualify to OG? :mumble: 

If she wins speed, during the combined event, she’ll have a fair chance. It would still be pretty hard for her to qualify since she’s a speed specialist though.

 

Based on form in past seasons, Gejo and Klinger are probably the favorites for the quota.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing IFSC World Cup 2020
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9 minutes ago, bmo said:

Was anyone else watching when the commentators were preparing for the broadcast, but didn’t take off their headset so we could hear everything they were saying. :facepalm::roflmao:

Any juicy gossip?

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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34 minutes ago, Vojthas said:

Well, surely you wouldn't call Monaco the "third world" not ironically as above, yet it is the country eligibile for tripartite places.

Well they also have one of the smallest populations in the world, so they get a bit of a pass there. It’s not like there’s a ton of room for sports facilities or athletes.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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3 hours ago, heywoodu said:

Wait, how do Italy and France get tripartite quota?

When I think of third world nations, these two do come to mind. Before you know it those African charity adds are going to say “for just $1.49 you can give this poor Italian a coffee, and for just $1.00 more you can gift those poor French family a baguette.”

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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14 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

 

The on-screen graphics were correct (based on what one could actually see in terms of which holds they reached), and even if the hold numbers were maybe not exactly correct, the order of the athlete definitely was. With that, Waller, Galla and Duffy all still had a chance to win the competition when Duffy went onto the wall as last climber of the event.

 

I get that it's damn near impossible to really have a good sense of that when you're just standing there though. I think even Charlie Bosco doesn't bother keeping a little Excel sheet with him like I do when watching combined competitions, with which you can quickly try a few scenarios (especially with only 3-4 climbers left) and see who still has a chance :p 

 

Without a sheet like that, I'd be lost and just wait and see what happens.

That’s what I did on the first day :p. I wish they would have left the climbs up for people to try after. Apparently media are allowed (or were at least being let) to try the climbs a few hours before the competition. There was one boulder I think I could have given an honest shot.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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3 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Good articles @Olympian1010

 

In terms of the actual content I only have one tiny remark, which is that the writing suggests Galla's Olympic dream was over after his lead attempt - that's not true.

 

Other than that, if I were an editor I'd only leave out some capital letters (like sometimes it's Boulder, other times it's boulder, or Boulders, or bouldering :p) and, this one is a bit more important, I'd really try and check names if you're not certain about them. There was no Xander Waller competing, but there was a Zander Waller :p 

 

Only minor things, like I said, good articles.

According to my scores, Galla was out after his lead attempt. I’m pretty confident in those, so maybe the on-screen graphics were off. I’ll have to check scores for future articles. However, the IFSC isn’t exactly blessed with speed when it comes to this sort of thing :p

 

Yeah, I need to fix the Boulder thing. That’s on me. I still need to figure out some uniform style policies for Totallympics Media.

 

Now for the really odd stuff. I swear the entry lists said Xander Waller. I checked them multiple times throughout the day. I’m beginning to think I can’t trust IFSC published materials :p

 

Thanks for the feedback. I’m glad these are good articles because both of them were written from 23:00-01:00 on the night the competition ended. I was fully living the journalistic life those days, and I loved every second of it. I thank y’all for giving me the opportunity. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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4 hours ago, dcro said:

 

No, mainly because Duffy apparently topped the wall in qualifying and Bailey was so slow. It looked like he was barely even trying. :p

Duffy is also a two time youth-B lead champion, so the other journalists around me had already started writing their stories :p

 

Duffy’s climb was a bit weaker than I expected it to be. He didn’t look comfortable, and he seemed to lack some confidence.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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30 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Oh my, the suspense during Yip's lead attempt! That, and the way it ended, is going on my list of favourite 2020 sports moments (it would have been there also if 2020 actually had more than 2,5 months of sports :p ).

That was a fun one to watch. The moment after her climb was really touching too.
 

I have audio interviews with Yip and Contreras if that interests anyone 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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15 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

 

I've heard those can be watched online as well? Because in that case I'll refrain from reading the articles for now, but I'll read them later :p 

Yes they can :yes. I wasn’t trying to plug my articles by the way, I just remembered about writing them now, and I wanted to know what people think of my debut working media performance :d

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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10 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

Just finished watching this, and finally I can ask: why does IFSC not have any graphics other than the time? :hairpull:

 

It'd have been so incredibly easy to follow the competition if they had live graphics, sort of like at the 2018 world championships, but now Ito - the very last athlete - fell a bit earlier than expected and all of a sudden they realized the battle between Krampl and Rakovec had turned around completely. I love IFSC live streaming everything on YouTube so it's easy to watch whenever you want, but their graphics are absolutely horrible :yikes: (well, non-existing basically)

The livescoring at venues isn’t any better let me tell you. I found myself doing a lot of unplanned math during the Pan American Championships. By the way, if anyone read those articles, what did you think?

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, phelps said:

 

no, the world cup was due to start in April in any case...

 

and now the start is delayed (the first stages were scheduled in East Asia)...

 

so far, the only event regularly held is the Olympic Panamerican Qualification...

Which was a terrific competition by the way @heywoodu. The men’s competition has some close, competitive climbing. Definitely worth a watch if you have the time.

 

World Games qualification has also met a similar fate to Olympic qualification at this point. What sucks is that Sport Climbing is one of the few sports that actually has a qualification method you can follow :(

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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I really enjoyed my self this weekend. This competition was so awesome, and I’m so glad I was given the opportunity to report on it in person. I learned so much as a journalist, and witnessed much as a fan of the sport. I made some great connections, and thank you all for helping me get here.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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