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Sport Climbing 2022 Discussion Thread
Posted
29 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

If anyone happens to see a replay for the men's boulder final at the European climbing championships, it'd be great if you can post it :p 

 

It was live on a dailymotion stream, but apparently those aren't available on-demand, so.....tough luck.

Starts around 8:29:00 

 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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2 hours ago, heywoodu said:

Wow, where did this guy come from :yikes: 

 

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He hasn’t found too much success on the World Cup (4th at Salt Lake last year was best previous result), but Brosler finished in the top 16 at the last two world championships, and was 5th at the 2017 World Games. He

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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2 minutes ago, Monzanator said:

It's not about gold, Miroslaw would actually stand a chance to win any medal in Paris. Here in Tokyo even Polish TV didn't hype her for a medal despite the WR because everyone knew she would finish 8th in lead & boulder and hence miss out. You don't put Usain Bolt in 10,000 race and expect him to win a medal. I really hope this unfair combined gets canned in Paris and they will split the events like in World Games.

Honestly, Miroslaw had a pretty decent chance at a medal here. All she needed to win a medal after that win in the speed was a zone hold in boulder or to beat Jaubert (another speed specialist) in the lead. It’s true the format didn’t favor her (or other speed climbers), but this wasn’t an impossible task for her. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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9 minutes ago, intoronto said:

Indonesia will likely win the gold in Paris... I speed

Speed is very unpredictable at the top. Plus, they aren’t the only nation working on new beta. I’d say they have a decent chance, but it’s nowhere near certain.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Garnbret :SLO is such a beast! She ate those boulder problems for breakfast and then enjoyed that lead route for dessert. I’m also super happy for Nonaka :JPN and Noguchi :JPN. It was nice to see the Japanese climbers find some success at their home Olympics. 
 

The route setters did a great job setting intriguing boulders, but I think they could have ratcheted down the difficultly a notch. The green hold section of the lead route also proved to be quite a challenge. I think they could have made that top volume section (after the green holds) just a tad easier though, since it would have been nice to see someone top out during the final.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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22 minutes ago, Monzanator said:

 

Yeah, quotas are tight but one would have thought the new sports will get the glass half-full treatment and some of the old ones get trimmed down. But here they brought a new event and clearly butchered the concept already. If you want to keep the quotas in sport climbing low then why introduce this sport to the Games to begin with?

Because some sport climbing is better than no sport climbing :d

 

In fairness, quotas weren’t as tight for Tokyo as they are for Paris. There’s also a lot of rumors as to why the combined event was chosen for the Olympics instead of the individual disciplines, but that’s a loaded topic I don’t feel like getting into.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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16 minutes ago, Monzanator said:

The speed speciallists are lucky there are no 30 entries overall or else the entire Top 10 from speed climb wouldn't have made the final. So this combined event is unfair to them. It has to be separated like it is in the World Games. It's like in cycling when sprint speciallists will never contend for the overall Grand Tour or a mountain stage victory.

Which is exactly what the majority of the climbing community, myself included, wants of course. It’s just tough to get there when quotas are tight like there are currently.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Also, just wanted to give a shoutout to OBS. I really liked how they choose to present sport climbing. Those 3D models of the walls are cool. Plus all the other fun graphics they used during the final (angle of wall, distance between holds, etc.)

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, Monzanator said:

@Olympian1010They have to separate the speed climb from endurance boulder. There is no other way. Making the final 8 only gives some of the handicap back since even if the speed winner finishes low in the other two events, he/she can still challenge for medals.

 

This seems to affect women more. Only four of Top 10 speed climbers made it past the qualifying while in lead & boulder 8 from Top 10! Huge difference.

Not sure what “endurance boulder” is…but yes, the speed winner can stay competitive in this format because of the multiplication system used for the combined score. On one hand, it’s nice that speed specialists have a chance, on the other hand it’s a bit ridiculous since they tend to be towards the bottom of lead and boulder phases. Obviously, speed will be a separate event in Paris, so this won’t be an issue next cycle.

 

Lead and Boulder are generally regarded as being more similar to each other, than speed climbing is to either, so it’s not shocking that climbers stronger in Boulder and Lead might fair better in qualification. For example 2x16x17 (speed-boulder-lead) is still worse than than say 14x4x6.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Finally got a chance to watch some damn climbing at these Games. What a final that was :hyper:

 

I always knew sport climbing would provide some intrigue and entertainment, but that was an amazing Olympic debut for the sport. 
 

I would rate the combined format as “okay.” It’s not the ugly, evil demon that a lot of the climbing community makes it out to be, but it’s also not not the best format for sport climbing. In my opinion, too much of the results comes down to the efforts of others. It takes away from individual performances. Like most people within the climbing community, I’d prefer to see the disciplines separated.

 

I was pulling for Duffy :USA having watched him qualify for the Olympics in person. Unfortunately, the false start in speed cost him dearly. This format actually allowed for very few mistakes at all. Ondra :CZE ultimately lost the competition on that dyno move at Boulder 2 for instance. Coleman :USA winning the Boulder phase was a huge surprise. He had shown good form on the World Cup circuit this year though, so it was nice to see his efforts rewarded. Likewise, Gines Lopez :ESP winning the final was quite a shock as well. I never saw him winning speed, but to his credit, he took the opportunity when it came. I figured once he won speed he’d win the competition though, as he is a lead specialist. I was actually a bit surprised by his performance there, but he did enough to win and that’s what counts. I think Mawem :FRA deserves a shoutout as well for his terrific performance on Speed and Boulder. Unfortunately, that 7th in lead and the way the combined format is scored left him without a medal. 
 

Interesting, the three winners of the individual disciplines (Gines Lopez :ESP, Coleman :USA, Schubert :AUT) were also the three medalists at the end of the day.  You can see how the multiplication method of scoring affects the eventual outcome in the combined event. 

 

 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Natalia Grossman :USA takes the women’s competition with a perfect score in the final.

 

That’s two World Cup victories for her this year.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Awesome victory for Sean Bailey :USA in the Boulder World Cup today.

 

There were only 4 tops in the entire final :yikes: It was definitely a challenging set.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Miho Nonaka with a bronze in a speed climbing World Cup :yikes:

 

Yeah, yeah. Reduced field, rival’s mistakes and whatnot, still awesome.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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