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2 hours ago, Josh said:

No quota for :INA Veddriq Leonardo in men’s speed :cry:

Katibin :INA losing creates an interesting situation too. Mulyono is probably their third best climber at the moment, but now he has a quota.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing at the Pan American Games 2023
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Josh said:

Predicting an all American final, with Granja winning bronze. Let’s see if I’ll be correct…

Yay, you got it right!

 

@Josh you want to predict the next TISC Grand Final?

Edited by Olympian1010

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing at the Pan American Games 2023
Posted (edited)

I swear, if Sternik :ARG v. Egg :BRA becomes the final :facepalm:

 

Edit: Crisis averted.

Edited by Olympian1010

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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6 minutes ago, Josh said:

It’ll be Sean Bailey most likely. 

You’ve got the wrong Sean :p

 

I believe you mean Sean Watson.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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10 minutes ago, Josh said:

Men’s Speed QFs

 

:USA Sean Watson v. :ECU Isaac Estevez

:USA John Brosler v. :VEN Gustavo Perez

:ECU Carlos Granja v. :CAN Dylan Li

:CAN Ethan Pitcher v. :CAN Michael Finn Henry

The results system has been updated. There will, indeed, be a Round of 16.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Bratschi :USA with two falls in qualifying. He’s been eliminated if the competition goes straight to the quarterfinals. There seems to be some confusion about that though…

 

This quota seems more open than the women.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Rojas :ECU prevents the sweep!
 

Happy to see her win a medal at a major competition. She was one of the few Latin American climbers on the circuit before sport climbing went Olympic. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing 2023 Discussion Thread
Posted

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Duffy really put it together when it mattered this season. I don’t think he’s happy with how he climbed this year, but hopefully the quota helps him ease into the Olympic season.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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31 minutes ago, phelps said:

the traditional spirit of sport climbing is represented only and exclusively by the lead event :pope:

I think many climbers would consider bouldering in that spirit as well. It might not be as historically prestigious or prized as lead/big route climbing, but it’s definitely come into its own in the last decade. Even your traditionalist climbers like Ondra or Honnold train bouldering for fun or improvement on the big climbs.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing IFSC World Championships 2023
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, De_Gambassi said:

Very-minimal-educated-opinion.

 

Speed Climbing is unbelievable the first time you watch it, but it gets old very fast and not that exciting really. I would like they come up with a new route each time (witch climbers having a few days/weeks prior to the competition to figure it out the fastest way to climb it)

 

Edit: maybe a longer route also if that's possible.

I could be wrong, but I believe that is the idea of the speed-classic discipline. You don’t see too many of those comps anymore unfortunately…

 

You’re opinion is shared by a lot of climbers too. Personally, I find speed entertaining enough now (though maybe too random). However, I think that format would probably be interesting as well (and maybe in the traditional spirit of sport climbing).

Edited by Olympian1010

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, Benolympique said:

Paul Jenft :FRA

Nope. @Josh has spoken. Jenft can only be considered American now. Everyone knows his posts are legally binding and infallible :p

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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43 minutes ago, Rafa Maciel said:

To be honest I'm not sure - the IFSC rulebook says Boulder qualification is organised as a "single course of five (5) boulders for each Starting Group" so I took that as each group had to do the same routes. 

I think that’s the key wording here. Both groups get a set of five boulders. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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1 hour ago, Rafa Maciel said:

As far as I am aware, they all do the same 5 routes in qualifying and the results from the two groups are combined with the top 20 going through to semis. Probably going to need at least 2-3 tops and 5 zones to get through.

I think the boulder problems are different for groups A and B, but I could be wrong…

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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2 hours ago, Rafa Maciel said:

Interestingly, he is still listed on the start list for tomorrow's Lead qualification - if he's nursing injury, perhaps he would have been better to rest up and focus on the combined event next week.

He said on Instagram he intends to compete in the lead. I think that discipline, in theory, should be easier on the ankle. Still, I’m surprised he’s not resting.

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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6 hours ago, Rafa Maciel said:

A couple of shocks in the qualifying so far

 

:BEL world number 8 Hannes Van Duysen wont progress after failing to zone on the first boulder - he's currently in 25th. Likewise, world number 11 :USA Colin Duffy and number 15 Jan-Luca Posch of :AUT have both had a stinker of a day and are down in 45th and 57th respectively. 

He was nursing a sprained ankle apparently. I’m surprised he entered the comp. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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There will only be speed climbing at the The World Games 2025. Link: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/959-new-competition-format-for-the-world-games-chengdu-2025-approved

 

Six events total (three per gender): speed climbing (two lane), speed climbing (four lane), speed climbing (relay)

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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:HON:ESA:CAM all entered athletes in the women’s bouldering at Brixen World Cup. They all failed to score a single zone, but still nice to see some new nations giving the sport a try. They would need to be ranked within the Top 36 of the Olympic Series rankings to have a shot at the universality quota. 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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Sport Climbing 2022 Discussion Thread
Posted
29 minutes ago, heywoodu said:

If anyone happens to see a replay for the men's boulder final at the European climbing championships, it'd be great if you can post it :p 

 

It was live on a dailymotion stream, but apparently those aren't available on-demand, so.....tough luck.

Starts around 8:29:00 

 

“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. Sport can create hope where once there was only despair” - Nelson Mandela

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