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phelps

Sport Climbing 2018 Discussion Thread

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phelps    302
Posted (edited)

SportClimbing.png

Edited by phelps

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phelps    302
Posted (edited)

image.png.1b1b9f2c963f2d8c3a304b99b7739a06.png

 

Other important dates of the season:

 

September 6th - 16th, Innsbruck (AUT), IFSC 2018 World Sport Climbing Championships

 

 

Edited by phelps

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phelps    302

New Season, New Stars: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Returns

 

Bouldering stars and rising stars from all around the world compete in 7 days at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland, the start of an exciting IFSC season which also features the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires and IFSC Climbing & Paraclimbing World Championships in Innsbruck.

 

Since 2016, Meiringen marks the opening of the IFSC Climbing World Cup season.

Nestled in the Swiss Alps, the mountain village welcomes a new strong field of about 250 elite Bouldering athletes on April 13th-14th.

 

Shauna Coxsey (GBR) has yet to lose in Meiringen, but as in 2017 the reigning Bouldering season champion will have to overcome a recent injury (finger) to continue her streak of victories with Meiringen runner-up Katharina Saurwein (AUT) back on the start list.

 

Jongwon Chon (KOR) missed the finals cut last year, but the men’s Bouldering season champion and Meiringen runner-up Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS) are top candidates to medal.

 

After dominating the Bouldering team rankings in 2017, Japan returns with a full lineup of podium contenders: Meiringen winner Kokoro Fujii, Combined season champion Tomoa Narasaki, Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and youth Bouldering world champion (Youth B) Futaba Ito.

 

Expectations are also high for the United Sates, sending youth Combined world champion (Juniors) Claire Buhrfeind and more strong contenders. From Switzerland, world champion Petra Klingler fell just short of the podium in Meiringen last year, but she will again be in the spotlight in front of her home crowd.

 

Also keep an eye on Alexander Megos (GER), runner-up at the European Bouldering Championship in Munich.

 

9 rising stars competing at the Youth Olympic Games in October will test their progress in Meiringen. Youth Combined world champion (Youth A) Sandra Lettner (AUT) will climb in her first IFSC World Cup, alongside Argentina native Valentina Aguado, Combined world champion Elena Krasovskaia (RUS), Keita Dohi (JPN), Petar Ivanov (BUL), Vita Lukan (SLO), Hannah Meul (GER) and Filip Schenk and Giorgia Tesio of Italy.

 

Tune-in to the IFSC Homepage on April 14th for the semi-finals and finals live streaming to see how all the stars and rising stars perform.

 

The schedule, results, starters, 2017 replays and photos can all be found on the official Meiringen event page.

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phelps    302

IFSC World Cup, Stage #1 (Meiringen, SUI)

 

Women's Boulder

 

1st, Miho Nonaka (JPN)

2nd, Janja Garnbret (SLO)

3rd, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

 

Men's Boulder

 

1st, Jernej Kruder (SLO)

2nd, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)

3rd, Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS)

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phelps    302

IFSC World Cup, Stage #2 (Moscow, RUS)

 

Women's Boulder

 

1st, Janja Garnbret (SLO)

2nd, Miho Nonaka (JPN)

3rd, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

 

Men's Boulder

 

1st, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)

2nd, Jernej Kruder (SLO)

3rd, Gregor Vezonik (SLO)

 

Women's Speed

 

1st, Anouk Jaubert (FRA)

2nd, Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)

3rd, Elena Timofeeva (RUS)

 

Men's Speed

 

1st, Reza Alipoushenadzandifar (IRI)

2nd, Vladislav Deulin (RUS)

3rd, Veddriq Leonardo (INA)

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phelps    302

Curiously, in both men and women's bouldering we have the same one-two on the podium, but in reverse order...

more in general, the Japanese/Slovenian domination continues, uncontested...

 

meanwhile in the first speed event of the season, France and Iran win among women and men respectively, with the men's event that sees the surprising explosion of the Indonesian specialists, literally coming out from nowhere...

good team result, despite no gold medals, for the hosts...

in the men's speed, disappointing performance by the Italian guys, despite the very high expectations...

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phelps    302

IFSC World Cup, Stage #3 (Chongqing, CHN)

 

Women's Boulder

 

1st, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

2nd, Miho Nonaka (JPN)

3rd, Stasa Gejo (SRB)

 

Men's Boulder

 

1st, Kokoro Fujii (JPN)

2nd, Sean McColl (CAN)

3rd, Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS)

 

Women's Speed

 

1st, Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA)

2nd, Elena Timofeeva (RUS)

3rd, Puji Lestari (INA)

 

Men's Speed

 

1st, Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)

2nd, Aspar Jaelolo (INA)

3rd, Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

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phelps    302

IFSC World Cup, Stage #4 (Tai'an, CHN)

 

Women's Boulder

 

1st, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

2nd, Miho Nonaka (JPN)

3rd, Fanny Gibert (FRA)

 

Men's Boulder

 

1st, Alex Khazanov (ISR)

2nd, Jernej Kruder (SLO)

3rd, Gregor Vezonik (SLO)

 

Women's Speed

 

1st, Anouck Joubert (FRA)

2nd, Sari Agustina (INA)

3rd, Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA)

 

Men's Speed

 

1st, Mawem Bassa (FRA)

2nd, Sabri Sabri (INA)

3rd, Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)

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